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How do I rout a stopped groove - success!

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Forum topic by Sandra posted 11-27-2012 12:24 AM 2062 views 0 times favorited 31 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Sandra

4984 posts in 822 days


11-27-2012 12:24 AM

Topic tags/keywords: router question

I’m making slow and steady progress on my latest project – a mobile planer stand, using these plans:

http://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/112/112-planerstand.pdf

I’m now ready to tackle the outfeed support arms, but have a question.
The instructions on page 6 say “Then I took them to the router table and routed a stopped groove partway along the inside of each piece.” The measurements are all there as to how wide and deep the grooves should be and I know what the end product should look like. Each piece measures 48” I’ve never stopped a groove before mid piece.

Maybe I’m missing something obvious, but how do I stop? Do I just leave the workpiece on the bit and switch off the router?? I certainly don’t want a four-foot projectile coming off the table.

After I rout the groove, I have to rout a slot in the groove. Again, how do I start and stop that?

Any pointers?

Thanks.
S

-- No, I don't want to buy the pink hammer.


31 replies so far

View DaleM's profile

DaleM

923 posts in 2130 days


#1 posted 11-27-2012 12:45 AM

I just stop moving the piece and lift it up. I continue to hold it against the fence, then lift only one end of the board until it clears the route bit. Lift the end that has the groove or dado cut in it, so you don’t angle the uncut part of the board into the bit. I’ve never had any problem doing it this way with the router still running.

-- Dale Manning, Carthage, NY

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Sandra

4984 posts in 822 days


#2 posted 11-27-2012 12:50 AM

Thanks Dale, seems a bit scary to me. I love learning new skills, but have a highly developed fear of getting hurt.

-- No, I don't want to buy the pink hammer.

View Don W's profile

Don W

15533 posts in 1314 days


#3 posted 11-27-2012 01:20 AM

You can just stop moving and shut the router off if it feels safer. In reality I’m not sure it matters.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.com

View Monte Pittman's profile

Monte Pittman

15450 posts in 1085 days


#4 posted 11-27-2012 01:43 AM

I agree with the avoidance of injury.

If you’re gonna read the instructions you’re taking all the adventure out of it :-)

Hope you’re feeling better

-- Mother Nature created it, I just assemble it.

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ajosephg

1860 posts in 2307 days


#5 posted 11-27-2012 01:54 AM

I’m chicken, and shut the router off and let it spin down.

-- Joe

View juniorjock's profile

juniorjock

1930 posts in 2512 days


#6 posted 11-27-2012 01:59 AM

After I rout the groove, I have to rout a slot in the groove. Again, how do I start and stop that?

That has me a little confused.

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Sandra

4984 posts in 822 days


#7 posted 11-27-2012 02:08 AM

After I’ve finished the groove I have to go over it again, this time with a narrower bit set deep enough so that it does go all the way through.

Soooo I have the stopped groove running along part of the board length, and then a narrower slit all the way through the groove.

Man, even I’m confused. So how would I start the line that goes all the way through??

Monte – feeling somewhat better. Gone from feeling very crappy to only moderately crappy. It’s an improvement!
Being in the shop helps keep my mind off it.

-- No, I don't want to buy the pink hammer.

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Sandra

4984 posts in 822 days


#8 posted 11-27-2012 02:09 AM

Don and Joe – I think I’ll try letting it spin down. Does it burn the wood?

-- No, I don't want to buy the pink hammer.

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a1Jim

112860 posts in 2324 days


#9 posted 11-27-2012 02:09 AM

JJ
just clamp some stops on the router table ,reduce the size of your router bit ,center the smaller bit and make a cut half way through on one side then turn the board over and cut through to complete the groove.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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juniorjock

1930 posts in 2512 days


#10 posted 11-27-2012 02:12 AM

Maybe try to clamp some guides on the piece. I’d run a few dry runs on some scrap. Thing is….. it’s only wood. For me (not saying this includes you) I’m used to having a few fails and learning a bunch from them. You can do it.

Edit: And, what Jim said….....

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Sandra

4984 posts in 822 days


#11 posted 11-27-2012 02:12 AM

Ahhhhhh. That makes perfect sense. It would have taken me a month of Sundays to figure that out.

Thanks Jim!!

-- No, I don't want to buy the pink hammer.

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a1Jim

112860 posts in 2324 days


#12 posted 11-27-2012 02:16 AM

Your welcome Sandra

since it means you have to let go of the board to turn the router off it could be more dangerous to turn it of verses just doing it while the routers running. the trick is to make sure you have your board firmly against the fence,I must have done this a thousand times with out problems.All said and done you should not do any operation you don’t feel safe doing. Depending on the type of wood you use it can burn the wood turning the router off.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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Sandra

4984 posts in 822 days


#13 posted 11-27-2012 02:22 AM

Good point. I was actually thinking about having the router plugged in to a surge protector that I can turn off with my foot…. That way I still have both hands on the board.

With the stopped groove, I’m starting at the end of the board. Stopping one of the ways mentioned.

With the ‘through groove’ however, neither the start nor the finish are at the end of the board. So how do I start the cut in the middle of the board?

Thanks for your patience.

-- No, I don't want to buy the pink hammer.

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

2746 posts in 1098 days


#14 posted 11-27-2012 02:44 AM

First off, are you using a router table? If you are then this is pretty easy. You need to put lines all around the board where the router stops are. Then mark your fence and or router table where the front and rear of the bit is. Do this after you set the fence for the center of the board. When you go to rout, set the bit height to take a small bite, somewhere around an 1/8” or so depending on how dense of wood you are using. Then turn on the router and hold the board against the fence and lower it straight down onto the bit. Rout until the line on the board and the line on the fence line up. If you are confident that the groove is centered then flip the board and do the other side. Then raise your bit another 1/8” or so and repeat until the slot is all the way through. I built that exact planer stand last year. Your gonna like it, it works great.

-- Bondo Gaposis

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MT_Stringer

2106 posts in 1977 days


#15 posted 11-27-2012 02:49 AM

I set up stop blocks on either side of the bit so I would have equal spaced groove. Start somewhere other than either end of your groove, then back feed and/or go forward until your groove is right. Make the groove in a couple of passes, cuting deeper on each pass until your reach the desired depth. Then change bits and do it again.

Here is a picture showing two grooves to hold pencils, pointers etc. I set up the table so I could make one groove, then turn the board around and do it again. The result was two identical grooves.

-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas

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