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night stand finishing

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Forum topic by whitebeast88 posted 11-26-2012 11:29 PM 572 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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whitebeast88

3524 posts in 846 days


11-26-2012 11:29 PM

Topic tags/keywords: finishing

i have built a pair of night stands for a customer and i’m wanting to use danish oil to finish.my question is danish oil by itself enough protection or do i need poly or something else?

-- Marty.Athens,AL


8 replies so far

View cusoak's profile

cusoak

5 posts in 665 days


#1 posted 11-27-2012 02:24 PM

It has been my experence that stain alone does not protect aganist damage do to water and scratches.
I was in the custom wood building business. We always used lacqure a a top coat. Now a days I use Minwax oil modified poly. I find that it drys quickley and can be recoated severial times it one day. t also flowes out nicely
Jeff

-- Jeff

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waho6o9

4926 posts in 1233 days


#2 posted 11-27-2012 02:55 PM

I would use something for a top coat as well.

Lacquer works fine, wipe on poly works well also. I wouldn’t use steel wool to
rub between coats because of the rust factor, maybe use bronze wool or high grit
sand paper.

I’m almost done with my first can of Minwax wipe on poly and I like the way it looks
and works.

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cusoak

5 posts in 665 days


#3 posted 11-27-2012 06:41 PM

As far as sanding between coats of finish you need to get your self some 3M super fine sanding pads. They can be bought at any Sherwin Williams paint store. They are a 1/4” foam rubber 4” square sanding pad. Great for sanding between coats of finish. they are very flexable so the are also good for contour sanding. They also come in different grits.

-- Jeff

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whitebeast88

3524 posts in 846 days


#4 posted 11-27-2012 10:59 PM

thanks for the recommendations,i’ve been wanting to try the wipe on poly.i haven’t thought about the 3m pads before.i think i’ll try the wipe on poly maybe 3 coats.thanks again for the help.marty.

-- Marty.Athens,AL

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BenI

326 posts in 834 days


#5 posted 11-28-2012 12:02 AM

I’d also recommend using a wipe-on poly. I recently switched from Minwax to General and absolutely love it. To be fair though, I always used regular Minwax not the wipe-on. I’d suggest General Arm-R-Seal but it takes a little longer to dry so take that into affect.

-- Ben from IL

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cusoak

5 posts in 665 days


#6 posted 11-28-2012 01:41 PM

Hi. Do you know of any videos on how to spply the wipe on poly, that are good. I watchet a video on how to apply poly with a painters trim pad. One of those units that are used to trim ceilings and door molding with paint. They work great with the poly. and they don’t leave and any brush markes

-- Jeff

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Fishinbo

11236 posts in 831 days


#7 posted 11-28-2012 02:15 PM

I think Danish oil alone will make your project pop out :)

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dhazelton

1186 posts in 952 days


#8 posted 11-28-2012 02:22 PM

Curious what the aversion to brushes is. I’m just old school I guess.

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