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Resawing Blade For A Bandsaw

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Forum topic by SnowyRiver posted 612 days ago 1926 views 0 times favorited 35 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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SnowyRiver

51451 posts in 2085 days


612 days ago

Ok, for all of you experts on resawing with a bandsaw, I have a quick question. I have a Powermatic 14” bandsaw. I have never had a real need for resawing before and therefore have never done this. I now have a project that I could do some resawing so I thought I would give it a try. I tried to resaw some 5” wide hard maple stock (4/4) in half, and the saw struggles to cut it. The blade doesnt seem to drift much or slow down so that doesnt seem to be a problem. It’s just the sawing part of it. It doesnt seem to cut well. I have to force the wood into it much harder than I would think I would. My blade is currently a 3/8 blade with 6 TPI.

I got thinking maybe I need a different blade…wider and less teeth per inch. My current blade seems sharp so I dont think its a dull blade unless it has to be super sharp to resaw. It seems to cut ok otherwise.

What is the correct blade to use for resawing?

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN


35 replies so far

View Chris Wright's profile

Chris Wright

525 posts in 2086 days


#1 posted 612 days ago

Try a half inch blade with 4 tpi, either hook or skip should give you better results. That’s what I used on my 18” in my old shop.

-- "At its best, life is completely unpredictable." - Christopher Walken

View Rj's profile

Rj

1047 posts in 2236 days


#2 posted 612 days ago

I’ve always used the wood slicer by Highland woodworking http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodslicer12resawbandsawblades705to137.aspx

-- Rj's Woodworks,San Jose & Weed Ca,

View Wazy's profile

Wazy

68 posts in 842 days


#3 posted 612 days ago

1/2” X 3 TPI will give you a clean straight cut, remember to not be in a hurry (not pushing hard) and let the blade do it’s job. Viking makes a good one. Good luck, resawing gives a lot more freedom of choice with less waste. Wally

View Joe's profile

Joe

185 posts in 1998 days


#4 posted 612 days ago

Yup, I second that 3 or 4 TPI will yeild better results. I use a 3/4” 4-TPI on y 14” and it cuts so much better.

-- Senior Chief

View Biff's profile

Biff

126 posts in 619 days


#5 posted 612 days ago

If you are having to push then that really only means two things. 1) Your blade is dull 2) You are trying to cut too fast and not letting the chips clear the cut.

Remember the bigger (and denser) the stock the slower the feed rate needs to be.

-- Interested in Oregon property? Visit me at http://www.willamettepropertiesgroup.com

View Porchfish's profile

Porchfish

570 posts in 1137 days


#6 posted 612 days ago

3 TPI hook & skip I prefer timberwolf but to each his own ! slow & steady & enjoy !

-- If it smells good, eat it ! The pig caught under the fence is the one doing all thesquealing

View Wildwood's profile

Wildwood

962 posts in 740 days


#7 posted 612 days ago

+1 on feeding too fast & dull blade.

Rule of thumb for resawing is wider blade and less teeth per inch. My personal experience with 14” band saws shows not all with take a 3/4” or wider blade even though manufacturer specs says they will. Common blade width for 14” BS resawing or cutting big stock is ¼”, 3/8” and 1/2” with 3 or 4 hook or skip tooth. Some blade companies offer highbred combination blasé sets which work as well.

-- Bill

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HillbillyShooter

4380 posts in 897 days


#8 posted 612 days ago

Agree with Rj—http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodslicer12resawbandsawblades705to137.aspx

Also, and no disrespect to Joe or anyone else, I would not go above a 1/2” wide blade on a 14” BS. Have a 3/4” Lenox carbide tooth blade that I loved, but it ended up taking both tires off my 14” Delta BS which has a 1-1/2 hp Baldor motor and was purchased in the mid 1980s.

Also, I’ve had good luck with timberwolf blades.

Best wishes.

-- John C. -- "Firearms are second only to the Constitution in importance; they are the peoples' liberty's teeth." George Washington

View Surfside's profile

Surfside

3050 posts in 778 days


#9 posted 612 days ago

“For resaw, mostly carbon blades are used but different blade manufacturers have different resaw blades; simonds has the red streak blade, lenox has theirs too – I’m not sure what the name is but what I use is hard back carbon blades Haltbar 201 Series .
The blade dimensions would depend on the saw that you are using. Different band saw models take different sizes of blades. For wood working, they are mostly using vertical bandsaws which can take different widths ranging from 1/8 of an inch up to 3/4 inch or 1 inch. And as far as I know, we use 3/4 inch blade for resaw. But it really depends on what works best .. 3/4 inch blades may work for some but will not work for others.”

- This is from my post in this link http://lumberjocks.com/Surfside/blog/33035#comment-1406662
You may want to call sawblade.com and ask for assistance about your issue.

-- "someone has to be wounded for others to be saved, someone has to sacrifice for others to feel happiness, someone has to die so others could live"

View SnowyRiver's profile

SnowyRiver

51451 posts in 2085 days


#10 posted 612 days ago

Thanks for all the good info folks. I am going to look for a new blade. Guess I will do a 1/2” and be safe that it will fit the saw OK. The manual lists 3/4 inch as a possibility too, but it also lists 93 1/2 length and 105” length for my saw so not sure what I would have to do to use a 105” blade other than add a riser block, but I have only seen them in the 6” range. I would think the blade would then be around 100 inches. I had read once that a riser block can make the saw unstable…not sure if this is true. Kind of wondering if it would be a good addition to do it now so I can buy the right blade length as long as I have to buy a new blade anyway. Thoughts ??

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN

View horky's profile

horky

73 posts in 1536 days


#11 posted 612 days ago

I have used bllades from this outfit:
http://www.ellissaw.com/
they have great support on the phone and will talk thru what is best for you.

View treaterryan's profile

treaterryan

109 posts in 892 days


#12 posted 612 days ago

6” riser block makes the new blade length +12” from the original (+6” on upside and +6” on downside), so the 105” makes sense if you have a riser block.

-- Ryan - Bethel Park, PA

View SnowyRiver's profile

SnowyRiver

51451 posts in 2085 days


#13 posted 612 days ago

Sounds good…I never was very good in math…LOL. Thanks

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN

View Wildwood's profile

Wildwood

962 posts in 740 days


#14 posted 612 days ago

Riser block kit one of the most popular upgrades can buy. Honestly not a fan of riser blocks kits. Either they work right out of the box or they do not. Unless upping band saw motor horsepower what is the point anyway?
Having the right blades, proper set, TPI, widths for cutting task and controlling feed rate more important. 105” blades cost more than 93 ½” blades.

If going to do a lot of re-sawing might be wiser and cheaper to buy a bigger band saw to handle the task. Then can use either bi-metal or carbide tipped blades. While those blades more expensive they tend to last longer and cut cleaner longer.

-- Bill

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

6915 posts in 1519 days


#15 posted 612 days ago

Wayne,
I don’t know how well the tension spring is set up on the 14” Powermatic, however my Rikon 14” came with a STOCK 5/8” x 6TPI blade. I switched to a 3/4” x 3TPI Timberwolf and have gotten it to work very well. FWIW, a 3/4” blade on my Rikon pretty much max’s this BS out.

Has anyone used a 3/4” blade with the 14” Powermatic?

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

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