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Using the Lock Miter Router Bit

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Forum topic by Chris posted 103 days ago 438 views 1 time favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites
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Chris

1259 posts in 527 days


103 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: router router bit lock miter lock miter bit

Do any of you have experience using a Lock Miter router bit?

I have one and tried it the other day; that was a very scary bit. I found it very hard to control the pieces of wood safely.

I think it could be a very useful addition to my arsenal if used properly; but how ?

-- Chris

View bhack's profile

bhack

151 posts in 257 days


103 days ago

Chris
I have one and have never been able to set it up for anything less than 3/4 inch stock. I got a set up block from Rockler but unfortunately the bit was not from Rockler so no help there. I suppose a lot of patience would pay off.

-- Bill - If I knew GRANDKIDS were so much fun I would have had them first.

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rikkor

8548 posts in 411 days


103 days ago

I got a bit and a set-up block from MLCS, but I haven’t tried it yet.

-- Maplewood, MN

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Chris

1259 posts in 527 days


103 days ago

my bit came from MLCS tool. I think….

-- Chris

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fredf

228 posts in 246 days


102 days ago

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/cmt-lm5.htm has a pretty good method of setting up. once you get it right save a sample to make it easier the next time!!!!

fred

-- Fred, Springfield, Ma

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John Nixon

135 posts in 599 days


73 days ago

Hi Chris,

Although my bit isn’t from MLCS, the setup procedure is the same. The first video in my pool table series covers the setup of the Lock Miter bit:
http://www.eaglelakewoodworking.com/index.htm?ptbp1.htm

-- John Nixon - Buffalo, NY - www.EagleLakeWoodworking.com

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skeezics

100 posts in 255 days


73 days ago

there is a leaning curve with the LMB. cut the piece in 2 or 3 passes and be sure to use a push block that supports the work piece to prevent tearout. I made a block from a 2×4 with a rabbet cut out at the front the same thickness as my stock [ 1/2” ] and about 3/4” deep. I put a grip handle on it. the work piece sits in the rabbet. this way I can push and hold to the fence at the same time. the push block also backs up the cut. I always mill my stock to the same thickness so I only need one of these. if you use other thicknesses make a few more blocks and size the rabbet as needed. when one block gets torn up at the cut you can rip some off that edge and its like new again.

skeez

-- hey honey! watch this!

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skeezics

100 posts in 255 days


73 days ago

BTW I didnt buy the setup block either! fiddle with scrap till you have it set up as close as posible then make a setup block for the next time.

skeez

-- hey honey! watch this!

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Chris

1259 posts in 527 days


73 days ago

Thanks for the Link John!

-- Chris

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Chris

1259 posts in 527 days


73 days ago

Skeez… I like your method; it’s far more economical than purchasing a dedicated coping sled or other such jig.

-- Chris

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botanist

10 posts in 75 days


14 days ago

I was a little late to this discussion, but I thought I might add my 2 cents. I recently found an article about using lock miter bits to create quadrilinear posts in the mission style, but I can’t find it in my files. Here’s a link to the article:

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesPDF.aspx?id=2435

View Thos. Angle's profile

Thos. Angle

3420 posts in 499 days


13 days ago

WoodShopDemos. John Lucas has the technique you need. Works every time.

-- Thos. Angle, Owyhee Design, Oregon

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