Bandsawing logs question

  • Advertise with us

« back to Wood & Lumber forum

Forum topic by Jay Nolet posted 11-25-2012 04:48 PM 1103 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Jay Nolet's profile

Jay Nolet

75 posts in 2273 days

11-25-2012 04:48 PM

Topic tags/keywords: oak log saw question bandsaw

Hello all. I was able to drag a downed red oak tree in four nine foot sections from the hill out back. I’m having a friend saw them up with his new portable bandsaw. My first plan (when they are ready) is to build a CHUNKY bench. About three inches plus thick seat? So, now to the question. Should the slab come from the dead center of the log with the core in the middle? The one surface at the core? The whole piece away from the core? If so, how far away from the core? The diameter of the pieces are (small end, narrow diameter) 12, 14, 15, 16. While i’m at it, I know one year per inch of air drying. Then kiln dry to best moister content? Or can oak go straight to the kiln? I thank one and all for responding to this query.

-- I think, therefore I think I am.

4 replies so far

View NedB's profile


659 posts in 3800 days

#1 posted 11-25-2012 04:52 PM

taking a page from the ‘spinny’ (woodturning) world… if you leave the Pith in the slab you use, you’ll be much more likely to get splits, better to use one or two ‘removed’ from the center of the log. Your mileage may vary of course…

-- Ned - 2B1ASK1

View waho6o9's profile


8539 posts in 2811 days

#2 posted 11-25-2012 04:57 PM

Quarter saw the oak.

View WDHLT15's profile


1797 posts in 2710 days

#3 posted 11-26-2012 03:38 AM

The center piece with the pith will split and check. However, you can always rip out the split and checked part after it dries and glue the board back together. Pieces that do not contain the pith (center) part of the tree are best.

-- Danny Located in Perry, GA. Forester. Wood-Mizer LT40HD35 Sawmill. Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln.

View MonteCristo's profile


2099 posts in 2423 days

#4 posted 11-26-2012 04:42 AM

3” thick bench seat. Seems overkill to me.

As other are saying, pith wood is to be avoided. White oak, with it’s legendary ray fleck, is often quatersawn but, as I understand it, red is not as spectacular and flat sawing it is an option. The logs aren’t that big so you’ll get some wider boards if you go with flatsawing the logs. The boards near the pith will very likely cup quite a bit but you could cut them, then joint the edges and stick them back together to get flat boards that basically are one piece.

I would just air dry the wood unless you are confident you know of a good kiln that charges a fair price. It’s possible to knacker good wood if it isn’t kiln-dried properly.

-- Dwight - "Free legal advice available - contact Dewey, Cheetam & Howe""

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics