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SANDING TIGHT PLACES,GOT ANY TIPS

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Forum topic by a1Jim posted 608 days ago 2930 views 0 times favorited 46 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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a1Jim

111999 posts in 2175 days


608 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: question

I’ve been working on my pie crust tilt top it’s a way past due project, Part of the reason it hasn’t been finished is all of the detailed sanding around the pie crust edge so far it seems like I’ve sanded around this edge 30 times. I have lots of power tools but these details really don’t lend them self to sanding with power tools with out destroying the detail.
So I was hoping some of you have tricks to sand on edges and details that a I don’t know about.

Her’es a photo of a similar detail.

I’d appreciate any and all suggestions

Thanks Jim

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture


46 replies so far

View stevematis's profile

stevematis

54 posts in 1949 days


#1 posted 608 days ago

i would try to make a mirror profile piece and glue sand paper on it. But, because of the different curves, 2-3 different “tool” would be needed.

-- www.lignator.us

View ITSALLRITEWITHME's profile

ITSALLRITEWITHME

9 posts in 616 days


#2 posted 608 days ago

Jim, I have two methods. First I always prefer cabinet scrapers and I have two that are small with wood handles, like old screwdriver handles. I will try to remember where I purchased them, Garrett Wade ( they have changed focus but may still carry these) or Japan Woodworker. You can also try a small chisel, used like a scraper.

I have also used psa sandpaper on small finely finished and shaped gaboon eboney sticks. I have more of these than I will ever use (left over from glass stop from an order of doors for a customer with too much money but very good taste) so if you email your address I will mail several to you and you can custom shape them

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JAAune

754 posts in 915 days


#3 posted 608 days ago

The only two methods I’ve employed that could be used in that situation are shop made profile scrapers and psa sandpaper stuck to a flexible card scraper or perhaps thin, flexible plastic.

Outside of that, I’d probably still end up doing mostly hand sanding with pieces of folded psa sandpaper. I like the folded psa around profiles because it’s stiffer than regular sandpaper and can somewhat hold its shape when flexed.

-- See my work at http://remmertstudios.com and http://altaredesign.com

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a1Jim

111999 posts in 2175 days


#4 posted 608 days ago

Thanks for the suggestion Steve
That would be wonderful if I could use that technique but because the profile is different as it circles the edge of the table it would not be possible. This technique is great for straight moldings .I’ve made molds the way you suggested by putting wax paper over the molding and then spreading bondo over it to form a mold and then using psa sand paper to the mold and then sand,it works great.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

7620 posts in 2650 days


#5 posted 608 days ago

As someone says…

“Whatever works, works…”

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

111999 posts in 2175 days


#6 posted 608 days ago

Thanks guys sounds like some good Ideas I’m pretty sure I can’t make a scrapers work because of the changing direction and with so much variation.
Bill the sticks was something I was thinking about I have some Ipe that should work for me to make some. thanks for the offer and the help.
JAAune thanks for the help I have been doing the whole thing with psa sand paper and the right profiles would help.
Jonathan Thanks for reminding me ,I have the same sander and I can check the profile on the tad polls(rubber profile)
and see if I can make some work.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View Boxguy's profile

Boxguy

1410 posts in 866 days


#7 posted 608 days ago

Jim, I would made a sanding tube. Consider using some hose or plastic tubing that is a little stiff, but would bend easily. Check the local big box in the plumbing isle for something with an appropriate diameter. It should be the diameter of the cove or just a little less.

Then I would wrap self-adhesive sand paper cut in a 1/2 inch strip around the hose on an angle like you would on a drum sander or baseball bat. Don’t let the strip overlap as it encircles the hose.

If you need more firmness in the sanding tube, another piece of smaller hose or even rolled paper inside the tube should help that.

I can sand lots of things with just my hand, but inside curves are too easy to distort. Unless the paper’s arc closely matches the arc of the wood, sanding will not be very efficient. One sanding tube may well match all the varied shapes and save you a lot of mold-making time.

Good luck.

-- Big Al in IN

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2938 posts in 885 days


#8 posted 608 days ago

you might try to make a sanding sponge like what they use for drywall. Id try to make one out of a damp sponge, not wet, just plyable, break the sandpaper down so it gets into the countours.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View Sheila Landry (scrollgirl)'s profile

Sheila Landry (scrollgirl)

7474 posts in 1518 days


#9 posted 608 days ago

I don’t know if this will help Jim, but I have this set of contour sanding grips that I use when I have difficult edges:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=20183&cat=1,42500

It is from Lee Valley and I usually find one in the set that fits what I am working on enough to get me through the job. :)

Sheila

-- Contributing Editor, Creative Woodworks and Crafts Magazine, If you like reading my blog, come visit at Sheila Landry Designs http://www.sheilalandrydesigns.com "Knowledge is Power"

View Roger Clark aka Rex's profile

Roger Clark aka Rex

6940 posts in 2033 days


#10 posted 608 days ago

Sheila beat me to it, Jim those contour grips she suggests are a life saver and often just what you need, and they are reasonably priced too.

-- Roger-R, Republic of Texas. "Always look on the Bright Side of Life" - An eyeball to eyeball confrontation with a blind person is as complete waste of Time.

View douginaz's profile

douginaz

220 posts in 2600 days


#11 posted 608 days ago

Wow, God bless you Jim, I can’t imagine sanding all those profiles. I have no idea how I would attack something like that. Only thing i can suggest is a couple of apprentice’s or a troop of trained monkeys. I have made profiles before using molding clay, I liked that better than the epoxy because you can custom make the finger holds. Other than that you are on your own Bud:)
Later,
Doug in AZ./

-- If you need craft books - please visit our small business at http://www.wittywife.com

View jaykaypur's profile

jaykaypur

3256 posts in 1006 days


#12 posted 608 days ago

Whichever tip/idea you decide to use, it looks to me like a lot of tedious but precise sanding. I am sure that whatever you do, it will turn out just fine.

I’m just glad I read the blog and saw Sheila’s idea. I’ve already ordered a set.

-- Use it up, Wear it out --------------- Make it do, Or do without!

View Roger's profile

Roger

14114 posts in 1402 days


#13 posted 608 days ago

You’ve definitely got your sanding cut out for ya. I also like Sheila’s tip & link. I think it would be possible to create your own contours using some scraps. However you do it, you’ve got yer sanding work cut out for ya… OH, I already said that. Good luck

-- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe. Kentuk55@bellsouth.net

View Gary's profile

Gary

6976 posts in 2031 days


#14 posted 608 days ago

Jim, if you remember, GaryK buile one of these a year or two ago. Contact him and see how he did it. I’m sure he’d answer a pm

-- Gary, DeKalb Texas only 4 miles from the mill

View CharlesNeil's profile

CharlesNeil

1113 posts in 2469 days


#15 posted 608 days ago

Jim, having done a few of these :) , we use the little profile sanders Sheila shows. We do cut them in half and 1/ 3 so as to get into the tight corners. Also try getting some fingernail emery boards, one side is course , the other fine. You can cut angles on them for the really tight corners. We also use the profiles pads and emery boards for carvings

showing 1 through 15 of 46 replies

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