Titebond has a secret

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Forum topic by RussellAP posted 11-21-2012 01:38 PM 1620 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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3104 posts in 2281 days

11-21-2012 01:38 PM

I don’t know how many of you know this, or perhaps I’m late to the party, but look what I found on Amazon.

I have some on order and will be using it on a walnut chest I’m starting next week.

I’ll let you know how it looks.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

14 replies so far

View crank49's profile


4030 posts in 2965 days

#1 posted 11-21-2012 01:46 PM

I wonder how it compares to Titebond III, which is dark.

View jap's profile


1251 posts in 2049 days

#2 posted 11-21-2012 01:46 PM

or you could use titbond III which is dark.

However, if your seems are tight, the colour of glue shouldn’t matter.

-- Joel

View RussellAP's profile


3104 posts in 2281 days

#3 posted 11-21-2012 01:52 PM

Jap, there is always a bit of squeeze out. I just wonder seeing that glue dries dark anyway if there will be any difference. Either way you have to sand it down. I would think that if there is any visible glue line that this would make it pretty invisible.

I never have used TBIII, I don’t build stuff that goes into water so why use it, TBII is cheaper and more suited to my work.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View Lifesaver2000's profile


551 posts in 3107 days

#4 posted 11-21-2012 02:01 PM

I just finished a bottle of that that I have been using over the past year on my three walnut projects, two of which I have posted here. It works very well and is a good match for the final color of the projects. That is especially nice since I am not real good at cleaning up my glue mess some times.

The dark color also made it work well for taking a little sanding dust from the walnut, mixing it with glue and using it to fill a small knot hole or other imperfection in the wood. Not sure how this would have worked on the walnut with a light color glue.

View lumberjoe's profile


2899 posts in 2243 days

#5 posted 11-21-2012 02:15 PM

I use hot hide glue for a lot of stuff now, but if I am using a PVA glue, it’s because I want a long open time. I’m not sure what good a darker glue would do. It may be dark but it is still going to show when you apply finish as it will take it differently than the wood does.

Consider using Elmers new stuff – Wood glue max. It has the characteristics of TBIII (long open time, waterproof) but supposedly it is unaffected by finishes. I am very anal about sanding and always wipe down my pieces with some kind of spirits before finishing. That will show any glue left over, so I haven’t had a chance to test the colorfastness of the elmers stuff. I will say it does sand A LOT easier than TB does though.


View RussellAP's profile


3104 posts in 2281 days

#6 posted 11-21-2012 02:18 PM

Lumberjoe, I’ve finally learned that you never never never touch glue that is on the finish surface until it dries completely. Some will wait an hour but it’s still wet inside and will smear and clog more fibers. If I let it dry completely it comes off easy with a scraper and then I sand it smooth and use some denatured alcohol to look for finish issues.

Tell me more about this hot hide glue.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View lumberjoe's profile


2899 posts in 2243 days

#7 posted 11-21-2012 02:38 PM

Yes! Removing wet glue just smears it into wood fibers and causes problems. After I set clamps I position the piece on it’s end so both sides are exposed. The squeeze out will run a bit instead of pooling and as such it makes it TONS easier to scrape off once dry. I have an old set of chisels I use for this.

Hot hide glue isn’t for everyone. Paul (Shipwright) turned me on to it. It is an animal protein glue. Note HOT hide glue is drastically different from the liquid hide glue you buy in bottles. Hot hide glue requires a double boiler and you mix it (for most applications, a 192g mix is good). If you don’t refrigerate the un-used glue, it will rot. It’s not a big deal as I just keep a mini-fridge in the garage.

- EXTREMELY strong. Even with no clamps, you won’t be able to break the glue joint after it sets up. Seriously, I have tried it.
- Reversable. With a heat gun and a spray bottle, you can safely reverse a glue joint with no damage to the surrounding wood fibers at any time.
- 100% unaffected by finishes. Even the PVA stuff that says it is stainable/paintable still looks like stained glue.
- Truly Non toxic. It’s animal hides.

- NO open time at all. The glue is applied at about 150 degrees. As soon as it cools to room temp, you are done. Generally that is a matter of minutes (like 2 or 3). You can heat your pieces to give you an extra minute of two. When I have really complex glue ups, I get the elmers out.

- Maintenance. As I mentioned before, you need to refrigerate it after use, and heat it before use. I thought this would be a pain, but it really isn’t. I just plug in the glue pot first thing (a walmart double boiler) and it’s good to go in no time at all. Before I shut the lights out for the day, it goes in the fridge.

- Obviously since it can be reversed with heat and water, you can’t use it on things that get REALLY hot or wet – cutting boards for example.

Paul does a much better job explaining it. Read his blogs:

Part 1
Part 2
Part 3

As I said, it’s not for everyone, but I am completely sold and am not going back.


View a1Jim's profile


117090 posts in 3572 days

#8 posted 11-21-2012 04:14 PM

aka Franklin international makes a number of different glues
here’s one I found comes in handy

But wait there’s more

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

View jap's profile


1251 posts in 2049 days

#9 posted 11-21-2012 04:57 PM

i need to get their extend formula

-- Joel

View pintodeluxe's profile


5654 posts in 2808 days

#10 posted 11-21-2012 05:39 PM

Titebond II has always dissapears on my dark stained projects. I have never noticed glue in a jointline.
Titebond II extend works well for large glueups (I use it for chairs), but it is pretty thin and runny.
TBII DARK may just be the ticket for walnut with clear finishes, but I have not needed to try it yet.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View NiteWalker's profile


2737 posts in 2571 days

#11 posted 11-21-2012 07:34 PM

My primary glue now. I don’t build things subjected to excessive moisture or weather so it’s fine for my needs.
If I needed moisture resistance I’d use extend II.

@Jap, you can get it from mcfeely's.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View DS's profile


2916 posts in 2415 days

#12 posted 11-21-2012 07:49 PM

I’ve been known to use tints in my glue when working with darker, open grained woods. e.g. Sapele, Mahonganey, etc. It helps hide any lines that might show up.

A Yellow line, however thin, shows up like a neon sign in a dark wood with a clear finish.

-- "Hard work is not defined by the difficulty of the task as much as a person's desire to perform it.", DS251

View lumberjoe's profile


2899 posts in 2243 days

#13 posted 11-21-2012 10:02 PM

If you haven’t at least considered hot hide glue, you should look in to it. Many of the problems people have with glue ups simply don’t exist when using HHG properly. I’m not an expert yet, but I definitely am not going back to PVA glues. It’s one of those things that really is almost too good to be true.


View joeyinsouthaustin's profile


1294 posts in 2067 days

#14 posted 11-21-2012 10:22 PM

I use a stainable hpva glue made by famo wood on dark woods that will be stained. It has been used on all of my recent indoor non moisture stain grade walnut, mahogany, sipo, alder, and others. It tends to react with some light woods, and turn dark, (maple). Have been real pleased with it.

-- Who is John Galt?

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