Titebond has a secret

I wonder how it compares to Titebond III, which is dark.

-- Michael :-{| Diapers and politicians both need to be changed often; and for the same reason.

or you could use titbond III which is dark.

However, if your seems are tight, the colour of glue shouldn’t matter.

-- Joel -- http://diversitywoodworks.wordpress.com

Jap, there is always a bit of squeeze out. I just wonder seeing that glue dries dark anyway if there will be any difference. Either way you have to sand it down. I would think that if there is any visible glue line that this would make it pretty invisible.

I never have used TBIII, I don’t build stuff that goes into water so why use it, TBII is cheaper and more suited to my work.

-- Failure does not stop me, it makes me try harder..... because I'm crazy.

I just finished a bottle of that that I have been using over the past year on my three walnut projects, two of which I have posted here. It works very well and is a good match for the final color of the projects. That is especially nice since I am not real good at cleaning up my glue mess some times.

The dark color also made it work well for taking a little sanding dust from the walnut, mixing it with glue and using it to fill a small knot hole or other imperfection in the wood. Not sure how this would have worked on the walnut with a light color glue.

I use hot hide glue for a lot of stuff now, but if I am using a PVA glue, it’s because I want a long open time. I’m not sure what good a darker glue would do. It may be dark but it is still going to show when you apply finish as it will take it differently than the wood does.

Consider using Elmers new stuff – Wood glue max. It has the characteristics of TBIII (long open time, waterproof) but supposedly it is unaffected by finishes. I am very anal about sanding and always wipe down my pieces with some kind of spirits before finishing. That will show any glue left over, so I haven’t had a chance to test the colorfastness of the elmers stuff. I will say it does sand A LOT easier than TB does though.

-- http://www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

Lumberjoe, I’ve finally learned that you never never never touch glue that is on the finish surface until it dries completely. Some will wait an hour but it’s still wet inside and will smear and clog more fibers. If I let it dry completely it comes off easy with a scraper and then I sand it smooth and use some denatured alcohol to look for finish issues.

Tell me more about this hot hide glue.

-- Failure does not stop me, it makes me try harder..... because I'm crazy.

Yes! Removing wet glue just smears it into wood fibers and causes problems. After I set clamps I position the piece on it’s end so both sides are exposed. The squeeze out will run a bit instead of pooling and as such it makes it TONS easier to scrape off once dry. I have an old set of chisels I use for this.

Hot hide glue isn’t for everyone. Paul (Shipwright) turned me on to it. It is an animal protein glue. Note HOT hide glue is drastically different from the liquid hide glue you buy in bottles. Hot hide glue requires a double boiler and you mix it (for most applications, a 192g mix is good). If you don’t refrigerate the un-used glue, it will rot. It’s not a big deal as I just keep a mini-fridge in the garage.

Pluses
- EXTREMELY strong. Even with no clamps, you won’t be able to break the glue joint after it sets up. Seriously, I have tried it.
- Reversable. With a heat gun and a spray bottle, you can safely reverse a glue joint with no damage to the surrounding wood fibers at any time.
- 100% unaffected by finishes. Even the PVA stuff that says it is stainable/paintable still looks like stained glue.
- Truly Non toxic. It’s animal hides.

Minuses:
- NO open time at all. The glue is applied at about 150 degrees. As soon as it cools to room temp, you are done. Generally that is a matter of minutes (like 2 or 3). You can heat your pieces to give you an extra minute of two. When I have really complex glue ups, I get the elmers out.

- Maintenance. As I mentioned before, you need to refrigerate it after use, and heat it before use. I thought this would be a pain, but it really isn’t. I just plug in the glue pot first thing (a walmart double boiler) and it’s good to go in no time at all. Before I shut the lights out for the day, it goes in the fridge.

- Obviously since it can be reversed with heat and water, you can’t use it on things that get REALLY hot or wet – cutting boards for example.

Paul does a much better job explaining it. Read his blogs:

Part 1
Part 2
Part 3

As I said, it’s not for everyone, but I am completely sold and am not going back.

-- http://www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

Titebond
aka Franklin international makes a number of different glues
here’s one I found comes in handy http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/TRIM-GLUE/Titebond-Molding-Glue

But wait there’s more

-- W James Brokenbourgh Custom furniture maker http://artisticwoodstudio.com/

i need to get their extend formula

-- Joel -- http://diversitywoodworks.wordpress.com

Titebond II has always dissapears on my dark stained projects. I have never noticed glue in a jointline.
Titebond II extend works well for large glueups (I use it for chairs), but it is pretty thin and runny.
TBII DARK may just be the ticket for walnut with clear finishes, but I have not needed to try it yet.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

My primary glue now. I don’t build things subjected to excessive moisture or weather so it’s fine for my needs.
If I needed moisture resistance I’d use extend II.

@Jap, you can get it from mcfeely's.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

I’ve been known to use tints in my glue when working with darker, open grained woods. e.g. Sapele, Mahonganey, etc. It helps hide any lines that might show up.

A Yellow line, however thin, shows up like a neon sign in a dark wood with a clear finish.

-- "Hard work is not defined by the difficulty of the task as much as a person's desire to perform it.", DS251

If you haven’t at least considered hot hide glue, you should look in to it. Many of the problems people have with glue ups simply don’t exist when using HHG properly. I’m not an expert yet, but I definitely am not going back to PVA glues. It’s one of those things that really is almost too good to be true.

-- http://www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

I use a stainable hpva glue made by famo wood on dark woods that will be stained. It has been used on all of my recent indoor non moisture stain grade walnut, mahogany, sipo, alder, and others. It tends to react with some light woods, and turn dark, (maple). Have been real pleased with it.

-- Who is John Galt?