Has anyone use any of those crown molding jigs?

I mark my saw with the correct angle then work with that. I cut it and cope it. I think that is best

We’ve got the coping set jigs used with a scroll saw and love them. Beats the heck out of a hand held coping saw on hardwoods. I think I paid about $49.00 for the set several years ago.

-- Bruce http://plans.testsitem3.info http://www.sawmillgirls.com

Ever heard of the Collins coping foot for a Bosch saber saw? Works great if you already know how to cope crown. You still have to make all the same cuts but none of the work doing it with a coping saw.

-- Fine Custom Woodwork since 1978

Upside down and backwards.
Mark a line where the crown molding sits.
Make your own stops, jigs, L brackets, whatever you want to call them.
Practice on scrap.
Easy peasy.

+1 for Wdwerker.

A digital angle finder can help determine the actual spring
angle of the moulding. Coping inside corners is not
very difficult and the result is nicer than what you’ll
get on every inside corner if you miter them. In terms
of outside corners, if the moulding isn’t large it can be
cut tilted on a miter saw using a crown moulding stop
which can be bought or made yourself… it’s still best
to get the spring angle measured so you can assess
if your crown stops are set correctly, rather than
merely eyeballing it.

Thanks everyone….I’m in new territory with this project. I’m going to Rockler today so I’ll see what I can come up with. You know it’s very dangerous to live 4 miles from Rockler.

-- Once in a man's life you should have a good dog, a good horse and a good woman. The trick is to get them all together at the same time

to bad i did not read this sooner .best method i have used by far is a continuos board . maybe a 3 ’ x8” scrap of ply .nest your crown in the saw . wall side up .as in the part of the crown that rest on the wall is nested in the saw so that it is against the fense[not the table] . then clamp/fasten that scrap of wood in front of the crown so it is held securely in place . when you remove that crown every piece that goes back in is at the same angle .the jigs that leave a space open in the middle allow to much wiggle potential . looking for a picture or referance .Here is a coping foot article thoughhttp://www.garymkatz.com/ToolReviews/collins_coping_foot.html . hope this helpshttp://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?59589-Katz-(Crown)-Cradle

So confuseing?/!#$%^&*((...my last saw i bought a double bevel compound miter slider….easy peasy..no fliping ,turning, guessing,,,have i got it right?

-- IF YOUR NOT MAKING DUST...YOU ARE COLLECTING IT! SOUTH CAROLINA.

In my many, many, many years of running crown in new homes I find that rarely does the standard cut make a tight joint. I always seem to have to either slightly increase or decrease the angle to get a tight fit. Sometimes it takes a little different angle on the mitre saw, sometimes it takes rolling the crown flatter or more vertical on the saw.

I always cut several test pieces of several different angles out of some scrap and test fit them in every corner before I cut the actual piece to install. Yes, this takes a little more time but I can’t count the time painters have commended me for making such tight joints.

So with that I really can’t use a jig for residential construction. If you are installing crown on a perfectly straight and square project then a jig or crown stop will work fine.

Rick

A good cope always makes a tight joint no matter what the angle is.

-- Oldworld, Fair Oaks, Ca

Take a peek at this video, its the jig I use to hang molding over the past 6 yrs, hang hundreds of board ft. It take me longer to set up than to hang a small powder room…hope this helps…BChttp://www.cutncrown.com/video_demo.php?gclid=CMefyMPv3bMCFQpgMgodxzEA6g...also let me tell you now if your going to hang 4 1/4” molding or larger you’ll need a 12” miter saw due to the fact the jig lifts the molding off of the miter table and you’ll won’t have enough clearance for the cutting anything smaller a 10 inch miter saw will work…enjoy BC

BC, I have this same system I bought at a show 5 years back and I think it works great. I do not do installs for a living but when I build my shop cabinets or a large crown box I wll open up the bag and set it up and cut away.

I use a 12” slider and see where a 10” would quickly limit your cuts. I also have the Cope n Cut, the one you could use a jig saw to make the cuts and cope as well but never have used it.

-- What we do in life will Echo through Eternity........

Taunton’s “Build like a Pro” Trim Cappentry and Built Ins. Very good book. Crown molding section explains all aspects of installing crown molding.

-- Dan I.G.N.

its all crap

mastering crown mould takes decades. There isnt a jig sold, worth its salt that will replace common sense

2 cents

-- "Good artists borrow, great artists steal”…..Picasso

I am nearing the end of hanging crown in my whole house. I understand that best practice would have been to practice, go slow, cope and all that kind of stuff, but frankly I just didn’t have time for that, especially when you consider that it was all getting painted. So I’ve been using the Kreg Crown Pro Jig and crown hangers. Between the two the project has gone pretty well. And I can chalk up most of the issues and imperfections to operator error as opposed to an issue with the jig. Yeah I’ve used quite a bit of caulk and if I was doing it professionaly for someone else and was getting paid to do it, it would probably have to have been tighter, but hell I’m happy as hell with how its come out so far and it has certainly impressed some of my guests so far. Good luck and if your planning on trying to do a stained crown molding then I’d have to thing you may not want to use a jig, or at least not that jig.

-- It's made of wood. Real sturdy.--Chubbs Peterson