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Grinding wheel runout

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Forum topic by DanM posted 106 days ago 559 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites
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DanM

73 posts in 245 days


106 days ago

Bought a Woodcraft 8 inch low speed bench grinder for sharpening purposes. Comes with 60 & 120 grit white/friable wheels. 1st thing I notice is the right (fine) wheel has what seems like quite a bit of edge runout (wobble) on the broad side face of the wheel, about 3/64” from the look of it. Tried taking the wheel off & checking the arbor, the arbor seems true. Remounting/retightening the wheel made no difference. Since the wheel is not thinner at the low spot, this means the grinding surface is also oscillating back and forth by the same amount. It’s as though the wheel has a slight “bow” in it, or (more likely) the center hole is not 90 degrees to the face. Laying the wheel on the cast TS tops seems to indicate it’s flat enough, so I’m guessing it’s the hole which is off. Is this an acceptable amount of runout, and will it cause any difficulties during sharpening? The coarse wheel is much flatter.

Thanks

Dan

View MrWoody's profile

MrWoody

238 posts in 310 days


105 days ago

I’m just guessing, but have you tried truing up the circumference?

-- If we learn from our mistakes, I'm getting a fantastic education.

View lew's profile

lew

1743 posts in 291 days


105 days ago

A machinist friend told me that every time you replace/remount a grinding wheel, you must redress the wheel. Apparently the tolerances used to cast the grinding stone are far from perfect.

View Karson's profile (online now)

Karson

13514 posts in 937 days


105 days ago

I would think that the face should not be out of round. I’d take the stone back, and let them try it on their machine in the store.

-- Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com

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SCOTSMAN

538 posts in 121 days


104 days ago

Also check the arbour for tight fit. In the wheels arbour hole any slackness will be magnified a thousand times at the cutting edge if this is fine then perhaps removing the wheel has not helped and as said regrinding the front edge and sometimes also the sides will help retrue the wheel.Also try pinging the wheel when removed in future with a piece of metal like a screwdriver holding it in the centre hole to see if you get an nice clear bell like sound when struck, if it is a dull like thud then the wheel is definitely damaged/cracked and must be replaced immediately hope this helps excuse my typing tonight a bit shakey.Alistair

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

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Planeman

38 posts in 113 days


104 days ago

Lew is right. Every time you mount or re-mount the wheel you are going to have to true it up with a dresser. I use a single point diamond dresser. They are not as costly as the name would suggest. Some online resources are . . .

http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/store/Sharpening___Grinders___Wheels___Diamond_Wheel_Dresser___diamond_dresser?Args=

http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/11253

http://www.diamondtool.com/sngptdre.html

Just be careful to grind only at the point of the diamond. I once saw a fellow actually grind the diamond out of its setting because he didn’t understand how to use the tool.

Rufus

-- Always remember half of the people in this country are below average.

View DanM's profile

DanM

73 posts in 245 days


103 days ago

Thanks for the replies. The actual grinding edge seems reasonably true, it’s more that the stone appears to either not be flat (thought it appears to be so when placed on the TS) or more likely, the plastic center bushing is not installed true to the rest of the stone. I’ll try swapping it for another, main problem with that is the store’s about a 50 mile drive…

Dan

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MVWOODWORKS

156 posts in 251 days


103 days ago

Lee Valley sells a grinding wheel trueing kit. But you may need to exchange for a new wheel. Good luck.

-- Pat, Colorado

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