|Forum topic by Mark Smith||posted 515 days ago||1109 views||0 times favorited||28 replies|
515 days ago
I have some glue questions. I just did a search and found some very good information from several people including a person with the user name of Alaskaguy. I was hoping to break some of that information down into a little bit more user friendly terms. For example Alaskaguy said Titebond III glue appears to have issues when it gets into temps above 150 degrees. So I was thinking that’s generally no problem for anything I build and then he mentioned leaving a guitar in a hot car. I guess that is a potential posibility for any wood item that is made. Or if it had to be left out in direct sunlight on a hot day could that heat the glue to 150 and cause it to fail?
My basic questions are this; after reading online information I decided that I was simply going to buy Titebond III glue and use it for everything I do. Now I’m seeing that may not be the best of ideas. So if it isn’t, what is the best glues for various types of projects? For example if I’m going to glue up four pieces of 3/4” oak to make a 3” square turning piece to turn a table leg, is Titebond III good for that? I have already done that and they didn’t come apart on the CNC lathe. What is Titebond III not good for?
Also, my last formal training on glueing wood was back in the 70’s in high school woodshop. We were taught to put ample glue on both surfaces to be glued together. With these new types of glue is that still necessary? The last few things I’ve done I just used a glue brush to coat one surface of the wood to be glued together and even with glue on one surface a lot still gets squeezed out. Seems to me like putting glue on both surfaces just squeezes more glue out and you end up using twice as much glue with most of it ending up on the newspapers. Do you guys just put glue on one surface or both? This stuff isn’t cheap and I don’t want to just waste it.
And my last specific question, on the Tightbond website they say with Tightbond III you can take the clamps off in 30 minutes. Back to my 70’s training we always left them on over night. Anybody taking the clamps off in 30 minutes or do you leave them on longer? If I could really take them off in 30 minutes it sure would speed things up and you wouldn’t need to have as many clamps.
And if you do take the clamps off in 30 minutes, how long before you actually start working with the glued up wood?
-- Mark Smith, Tracy, CA., http://www.markscustomwoodcrafts.com