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Forum topic by EricTy posted 11-16-2012 10:54 PM 935 views 0 times favorited 21 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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EricTy

60 posts in 973 days


11-16-2012 10:54 PM

Here’s a profile of trim that is used on top of the baseboard trim. This is from an early 1900’s Bungalow.

The biggest problem is the large variable radius. Is there a place I can get a bit made for this? Or are there some other simpler ways to get this done?

Any help or thoughts would be appreciated!

-- Only you know the mistakes were intentional...


21 replies so far

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2963 posts in 1009 days


#1 posted 11-16-2012 11:01 PM

You’d need a 1 5/8 router bit for that. They can be found online but they are over 100$ usually, way over.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

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bruc101

589 posts in 2264 days


#2 posted 11-16-2012 11:03 PM

Do you want a router bit, shaper cutter or a cutter to fit on a mldg. machine?

-- Bruce http://plans.sawmillvalley.org http://www.sawmillgirls.com

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Loren

7809 posts in 2370 days


#3 posted 11-16-2012 11:10 PM

How much of the trim do you need to make?

Doing the curve by hand with bench planes
is not too difficult. Do what you can with router
bits and “fair” the curve with the plane. There
will be some variation from part to part, but
it’s not usually a big deal considering the trimming
and tweaking that go into making mouldings
appear to lay flush against bowed walls and miter
cleanly into out-of-square corners.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

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Deycart

392 posts in 980 days


#4 posted 11-16-2012 11:12 PM

You could also try to make a scratch stock and do it that way. Its a good method if you have more than 10 feet to do but less than 30 or so.. You can find articles with google.

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pintodeluxe

3514 posts in 1536 days


#5 posted 11-16-2012 11:37 PM

I would use a large roundover bit for the top curve, a small roundover bit for the bottom curve, and a straight bit for the rabbit. Otherwise, I have “gone Amish” and filed a card scraper to the profile shape. Then it is just a matter of scraping out the profile. In that instance, I only needed to make 4’ of trim so it was feasable.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

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a1Jim

112529 posts in 2300 days


#6 posted 11-16-2012 11:44 PM

I think I would cut and angle close to the top part of the radius (maybe 30 degrees) and round over the smaller radius on the bottom with say a 3/8”-1/2” round over with a router/router table.after that make sure you draw the detail on the edge of the stock and use a block plane to bring the long radius to shape sand to complete the curve and then cut the rabbit on a router table.

Or you can contact a place like white side to make you a custom bit.

http://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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EricTy

60 posts in 973 days


#7 posted 11-16-2012 11:48 PM

Bruc,

I have a router and router table and a Grizzly table saw. No shaper or moulding machine available.

As of right now, I only need to make a couple feet. I’m thinking a 3/4” radius roundover bit for the tighter radius and then run it through the table saw to get the general angle and go manual from there. I can do the rabbit on the table saw as well.

I’ve been eyeing the Whiteside four piece roundover bit set (~$100) so maybe this is a good time to take the dive.

-- Only you know the mistakes were intentional...

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EricTy

60 posts in 973 days


#8 posted 11-16-2012 11:52 PM

Jim,

That’s too funny. I was typing nearly the same thing as you posted. :)

Thanks everyone for the great input!

-- Only you know the mistakes were intentional...

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a1Jim

112529 posts in 2300 days


#9 posted 11-16-2012 11:57 PM

Hey Eric
No problem been there done that:))

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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paratrooper34

760 posts in 1674 days


#10 posted 11-17-2012 12:04 AM

Someone with a good set of hollows and rounds and a rabbet plane can make that profile no sweat.

-- Mike

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eaglewrangler

59 posts in 1260 days


#11 posted 11-17-2012 12:06 AM

Craftsman makes a cutter head for the table saw, and it is possible to cut your own profiles by using only a single head. By breaking up the profile into 1 inch profiles, it might be possible the lower half is a stock curve. Cut the profile onto a big peice of wood then saw it off when done, this will reduce the chattering and keep you safer handling a 2×8 instead of a small thin peice, unless you have a powerfeed. Cut the original profile at the same angle as the blade, trace the stretched out profile onto cardboard as a guide, then it is just cutting that like a key to match, you can do the same on an old multiplane and cut a blank., curves can be roughed out and sanded round for short amounts.

View JesseTutt's profile

JesseTutt

811 posts in 833 days


#12 posted 11-17-2012 12:10 AM

It would not pay for a couple of feet, but you could check with a local wood supplier and see if they can do custom moldings. Here in St. Louis, St. Charles Hardwoods will do custom work but it usually costs over $300.

-- Jesse, Saint Louis, Missouri

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runswithscissors

1166 posts in 748 days


#13 posted 11-17-2012 12:59 AM

Grizzly has thumbnail, handrail, and ogee bowl bits that all have variable radius curves (really a section of an ellipse). I used one to duplicate moldings (unique to my 60 year old house) when I did my kitchen remodel.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

View bruc101's profile

bruc101

589 posts in 2264 days


#14 posted 11-17-2012 01:06 AM

I think we’ve got a molding cutter looks almost like that. If it was me, and I had only a couple feet to do, I would scribe the profile on a board wide enough I could hang on to it and not get my fingers knocked off and take the profile down on an edge, belt or disk sander. I would then run the rabbit and cut the width on the table saw. Takes some final hand sanding to smooth out the profile. You should be able to get close to the profile on a table or band saw. Make you a template out of anything and use that to check and tell when you’re getting the profile worked out on the sander.
Have done that umpteen times.

Simple cutters cost us $22.00 bucks an inch to get made for our molding machine so a lot of times we figure something else out.

-- Bruce http://plans.sawmillvalley.org http://www.sawmillgirls.com

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bondogaposis

2696 posts in 1074 days


#15 posted 11-17-2012 01:50 AM

It looks to me like you could get the shape by combining a 1/2” roundover bit for the bottom curve and a 1” roundover bit for the upper curve. The rabbet could be done a number of ways. You need to have a bit of a flat between the two curves for the bearings to run on, but that could be sanded out easily after the router work.

-- Bondo Gaposis

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