Using PVC as an Air Compressor Lines

I have my compressor in the garage and just cut a hole so I could run a hose into my basement shop. The hose is relatively cheap, flexible and comes in almost any length. Doesn’t answer your exact question, but there’s an alternative solution that’s an easy fix.

-- Every cloud has a silver lining

Try nylon (hose) lines – see /www.rapidairproducts.com/

-- Regards, Steve2

Not sure about PVC but if you do end up swapping it out, just use galv. steel pipes. A lot cheaper than copper.

If you do go with copper you can forget about soldering by using compression fittings.

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

Hi sIKE;

Since my apprenticeship was served as a plumber, I can’t bring myself to use those fittings. I guess I’m “Old School”.

I have to imagine they work just fine, or they wouldn’t be so readily available.

There, that’s about 2 cents worth, I guess I’m done!

Good luck with it.

Lee

-- by Lee A. Jesberger http://www.prowoodworkingtips.com http://www.ezee-feed.com

Just like lead-free is readily available but doesn’t solder worth the 2 cents…well unless you put the pipe and fittings through a sand blaster, acid bath, don’t touch with human skin and heat to 1000 F.

-- Rich, WNY, www.nyrockingchairs.com

Rule of thumb around here is never use plastic plumbing pipe for compressed air (hence the splitting and such.)

Agreeing, copper will be expensive. Never used pre-soldered. Never needed it.

I would avoid compression fittings. Although I don’t know the specs. on them, most house water pressure is in the 50 lb. range and I wouldn’t feel comfortable using the comp fittings. I’m betting they really aren’t designed for 100 lbs or more from air comp.

‘Round here we use black pipe. I’m thinking alittle cheaper even than galv. When connecting hard line to the compressor, you might consider a flex line to isolate the hard pipe connection from vibration.

-- arborial reconfiguration specialist

Thanks for all of the advise.

Moilly

The nylon solution looks interesting, are you using it?

-- //FC - Round Rock, TX - "Experience is what you get just after you need it"

I like the soldered copper pipe myself. It cost a little more, but the ability to cut the pipe to whatever length you need and shape it the way you want, seems to be a good offset.

-- Tim -- http://tmuli.com

I used 3/8” airhose. I put in a inline water trap at the compressor then used the heavy duty air hose through the joists up top. HF has packs of various fittings. I got 2 packs. everywhere I wanted a drop I cut the hose and put in a “t” its flexible, easy to run and lasts for years. hard pipe is a PITA to get through the joists. I use the coiled hoses for my drops and can reach anywhere in the shop with only 4 drops. I put blower nosels on each drop so I can hang them up when not in use. works for me and its MUCH cheaper than copper or galvenized pipe and fittings. I also got in the habit of shutting down the compressor when I leave the shop for the day. Its a good habit to get into. If you leave it on and a tool is conected and a line breaks you may burn up the compressor before you realize something is wrong. My shop is detached from the house so I would not hear the compressor running if a line broke.

skeez

-- hey honey! watch this!

In the past I had a shop for 10 years and for me pvc worked just fine… (sorry not advice you are looking for)

-- http://www.twinoaksgrowers.com

I’m thinking that flexable rubber hose is the way to go. I have a 50 ft run to make to my workbench and as an outside drop when needed there.

-- What happens in the workshop stays in the workshop. No wait that doesn't sound right. Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

Yep…had PVC for 10 years too…no problem….my joints were just glued.

-- http://www.woodsongsfurniture.com

I have used PVC for several years the only problem ever encountered was when using som fittings that were old. As far as the threaded connections go try using a male threaded piece of PVC, teflon tape and pipe dope, then add the fitting. Don’t torque the fitting too tight. Don’t run more than 150 PSI in the lines.

Having witnessed a PVC failure first hand in a shop I worked in, I will not use it for air line. The shop I worked in had added some square footage and ran 2” Schd 40 PVC as a temp. air line. The line failed at a coupling, a fellow working at a bench received a laceration on the top of his of his skull about 6 inches long that went to the bone. Bled like a stuck hog – the rest of the pieces took out two eight foot light fixtures, not just knocking them down but breaking them beyond use. The only thing the investigation could come up with for the failure was an unseen weak spot in the pipe. This pipe did not “come apart” it exploded. All that damage from 100 PSI. I might use it in a pinch, but not for long and not as a main run.

I’m not trying to rain on any bodies parade, just trying to get the other side of the story out.
Later,
Doug in AZ.

-- If you need craft books - please visit our small business at http://www.wittywife.com

I had the use of an old shop for while about 5 years ago and the deceased old guy who built it had 220V outlets in convenient locations as well as galvanized steel air lines running all around the perimeter of the shop with convenient places to tag into the air. Those lines probably been there for many years and will probably last many more….

-- Frank, Little River/Academy, Texas , http://www.allthingsrustix.com

ya pvc’s not good for air. its not made to handle the pressure and it is an insulator so it doesn’t let the air cool down because the air comes out of the compressor very hot. no experience with the copper fittings you’re talking about but copper is the way to go. don’t use steel because as the air cools there will be moisture and it will rust the steel but not the copper.

copper will rust too, depending on which schedule copper you use. I work for a company that manages apartment complexes, and when these place were built, usually 10 to 15 years ago, they used cheap copper. We now have to deal with the copper getting pin holes in them and because the leak is small it takes a while to find and sometimes floods buildings. Copper is exspensize and thinner compared to galvanized pipe. Galvanize is little tricker to work with because it’s harder to cut, but it won’t rust for years, 25 or more. most older houses built before 1980 have galvanized pipes and are still holding up pretty well.

-- Joey, Magee, Ms http://woodnwaresms.com

My house was built in 1965 and the galvanized pipe is still going strong. I think that’s what galvanized pipe was designed for. The borg will thread it for you too (for a nominal fee).

-- Scott - Chico California http://chicowoodnut.home.comcast.net

I only use regular airline hoses in my shop…

#1 They are made to handle the pressures , moisture , and temperature differences.

#2 I can put them where ever needed

#3 They are suspended from overhead until needed.

#4 I can take them with me where ever I need to go . If I need to use my air tools on my vehicles or blow up a tire or two , I just run the hoses outside and leave the compressor behind.

#5 I guess a lot of people don’t realize just what PSI stands for and that’s why they get hurt by using the wrong product for the job …. ( like plastic pipe )

#6 Maybe you should check with your local building inspector or insurance carrier to see what is recommended . Every business that I ever worked for had either galvanized or black steel pipe for the compressed air system . There are several grades of copper pipe / fittings , so beware if you choose to go that route . Best wishes : )

-- You know you're getting old when you know the difference between you're (you are) and your (belonging to you) AND how to use them in a sentence .

My compressor is in my garage and plumbed to the basement shop with standard airline hose. From there it goes to overhead retractable reels. I have three reels in my 1000 sq’ shop. Pull them down, hook them up as you need them, store them overhead when you don’t. I do the same thing with 110 electric cords. bbqKing

-- bbqKing, Lawrenceville

Don’t forget about moisture in the line. The following PDF file gives some of the basics of plumbing for air.
I designed the air system in a 40,000 sq ft building, so I know it all applies.

Basically you want to have one ppint that will collect the water and put a fitting there.

http://www.box.net/shared/nfou0upc1u

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

Check out this article, it gives some good advice.

-- -** You are never to old to set another goal or to dream a new dream ****************** Dick, & Barb Cain, Hibbing, MN. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/gallery/member.php?uid=3627&protype=1

By far the best choice would be galvanized steel piping. Without using a compressor that none but a lab can own (outrageously huge pressures that we (normal use wood/metal workers) would ever need) it will not break unless it isn’t sealed, it will just leak. You can add lines all over it and it taps and accepts quick disconnect fittings really easily as well as being pretty much impervious to rusting. it is the best way to go and by far the absolute safest way to go.

I did my shop with copper but if I was doing it again I’d use Nylon hose.

Northern tool and equipment is selling a product called RapidAir. Uses Nylon tubing rated for air (-40 F to +180 F) up to 145 psi. See page 255 of their fall catalog. Looks easy to use.

-- DaveH - Boise, Idaho - “How hard can it be? It's only wood!”

I agree with everyone that says go with the standard rubber air hose, very cheap, easy to run, and made to last..

Have fun Dug

-- Wood and Glass they kick (well you know) Have a great day - Dug

Dave thanks for the link to Northern tool. It was suggested earlier by Moilly. This is at a much better price point.

-- //FC - Round Rock, TX - "Experience is what you get just after you need it"

Like me, you’re runnin’ a small shop. To keep my compressor portable, I ran a 25’ hose to the airline reel mounted on the wall. If I was going to redo it, placing the compressor in the attic would be a great idea to cut the noise and I’d install a self reeling air hose to the ceiling of the shop. That way it would stay out of the way until needed, and still be able to reach the entire shop.

PVC will explode under high pressures. Copper (soft metal) could expand causing inevitable failure. Iron pipe is the norm here and still the best.

-- Bob Vila would be so proud of you!

No kidding you guys, PVC for air? I have this vision of some part of the line by a window exposed to constant UV that would suddenly schrapnalize at 135 p.s.i. Go figure. At least it won’t rust.

At an electronic manufacturing plant where I worked as a design/draftsman 20 years ago they had a problem with low air pressure at the front workstations because of the long run from the compressor out back.

The boss had this great idea to take six foot long sections of 4” diameter PVC and cap the ends to make a “storage tank” to put under each table. They used standard PVC cement to attach the end caps.

This guy was an actual genius and in theory a remote storage tank is a great idea but his implementation? Not so much.

I can’t remember if it was hours or days before one of the end caps blew off of one of the “tanks”, but I do remember how relieved the boss was that no one was in the line of fire.

He had it all ripped out and ran new lines. I told you he was a genius.

Bothus

-- Professional kitchen designer, amature woodworker.

I know of some airplane owners/mechanics that recently used Duratec tubing… it is a lot like PEX for airlines, google “Duratec airline”.

I dont know about the cost, but do know that the building inspector said that PVC was forbidden because it is extremely hazardous at air pressure.

-- Dane, Fairview Pk, OH. The large print giveth and the small print taketh away...

If PVC is the wrong choice then about 80% of the woodworking shops in America are wrong.

-- miles125, Alabama.."Architecture is frozen music""

I’ve been using PVC at 130 psi for the past 15 years with no problems. All the joints are glued and where pvc and brass meet has a wrap or two of teflon tape. Most auto repair shops around here do the same.

Found this a while back, I have been meaning to post it for a while…

Complete Garage Air Kit

which appears to be a HF version of this

RapidAir Master Kit

-- //FC - Round Rock, TX - "Experience is what you get just after you need it"

No matter how you figure it steel pipe is the way to go it is easy to work with and last forever, using the rubber air hose is not good as the hose will swell and chaf and then let loose and you got this wicked snake tearing everything apart. Use steel and run it at an angle so the moisture drains back to the tank.

-- Jim - Cushing, WI