Spline - How would you make this?

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Forum topic by Brian Strothcamp posted 655 days ago 1174 views 0 times favorited 35 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Brian Strothcamp

110 posts in 1328 days

655 days ago

Im wanting to recreate this frame out of Jatoba and Maple… I cant think of a single safe way to cut this on a power tool. Note the 45 on each end.

Router maybe… still must hand tool the 45
Table saw… same thing

I dont want just an inlay… must go all the way through and could be up to 8” in length

Im stumped

35 replies so far

View BentheViking's profile


1752 posts in 1199 days

#1 posted 655 days ago

band saw would be my first guess…how wide is that spline?

-- It's made of wood. Real sturdy.--Chubbs Peterson

View Gary's profile


7114 posts in 2067 days

#2 posted 655 days ago

If I had to do it, I’d put that spline in there before the wood was milled to final size and shape. Then, when you cut the angle on the frame, and the 45 for the corners, it would all line up. I hope that makes sence I can see it in my head but sometimes the fingers don’t do a good job of explaining

-- Gary, DeKalb Texas only 4 miles from the mill

View ShaneA's profile


5289 posts in 1233 days

#3 posted 655 days ago

You could rip the kerf for the spline on the table saw, and shape the end with a chisel.

Edit: by end I mean the rounded part the table table saw will leave behind. It would be mitered after the spline is glued in, dimensioned and routed for the rabbit.

View Brian Strothcamp's profile

Brian Strothcamp

110 posts in 1328 days

#4 posted 655 days ago

Width of the spline will vary… the only part i dont understand is cutting the void for the spline.

Shane, bandsaw would be too rough i think. I realy dont want to hand tool it either (quick xmas gifts ha)

View blackcherry's profile


3156 posts in 2458 days

#5 posted 655 days ago

Kerf cut on table saw first then add spline and then miter.

View trexco's profile


7 posts in 713 days

#6 posted 655 days ago

Custom ground blade (CA or DA) with 45 degree top bevel. Cut the slot, clean up small amount of arc, and cut spline to fit.

-- Nothing to it, but to do it ...

View waho6o9's profile


4843 posts in 1211 days

#7 posted 655 days ago

Lay it out
Cut it out
Miter the end with a chisel

Practice on scrap first, second, etc.

Good luck, you can do it.

View Moron's profile


4666 posts in 2528 days

#8 posted 654 days ago


some people just dont get it

-- "Good artists borrow, great artists steal”…..Picasso

View RussellAP's profile


2950 posts in 921 days

#9 posted 654 days ago

How thick is the dark wood at it’s thickest point? I was thinking you could use half inch stock and simply angle it for the deep 45, then just treat it like molding at the corners. Rout out the maple slot.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View RussellAP's profile


2950 posts in 921 days

#10 posted 654 days ago

If you dont want the inlay, you’ll have to take the Jatoba and rip the lengths out, cut it where you want the maple and then glue the maple in.
Now all you need to do is angle the piece to 45 degree by tilting it back from the face of the frame. No need to do dangerous cuts to 45 degrees and the wood will have a much better surface grain.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View William's profile


8977 posts in 1477 days

#11 posted 654 days ago

I thought I had it, and type up a detailed explanation.
Then, before I could hit the post button, I thought about the forty five you mentioned on the end and went back to look.
I now don’t know either.
I’m marking this post to watch though.
I hope you come back and tell us how to do it.


View BinghamtonEd's profile


1270 posts in 1004 days

#12 posted 654 days ago

Kerf cut on table saw, clean up and make 45 with small jeweler’s file. Just my opinion. Or maybe something with lasers. That’d be cool.

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

View Brian Strothcamp's profile

Brian Strothcamp

110 posts in 1328 days

#13 posted 654 days ago


That’s the best concept i could think of as well

If the spline were short enough you could cut on end but limited to blade height (also thought this would be too dangerous) this would eliminate the arc.

You may not need to clean up the arc though if the spline were cut at the proper angle to just touch the front and back corners, this would leave a void the shape of the arc. And final milling would expose this gap.

Just dont want to order a funky blade grind unless I have too, but would bite the bullet if absolutely necessary.

View PurpLev's profile


8476 posts in 2283 days

#14 posted 654 days ago

ripped on the TS – PRIOR to cutting the miter on the frame using a stopped cut (cut to line. stop TS, remove part, rinse and repeat)

the 45 at the end of the accent strip should be created and cleaned up with a narrow chisel.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View crank49's profile


3380 posts in 1605 days

#15 posted 654 days ago

A jig like this combined with a custom ground blade in your TS would do it. Not cheaply, but fast an high production capability.

Or, like this and hand make the little 45 in the corner with a fret saw or perhaps a custom ground chisel.

-- Michael :-{| “If you tell a big enough lie and tell it frequently enough, it will be believed.” ― A H

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