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Spline - How would you make this?

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Forum topic by Brian Strothcamp posted 520 days ago 1090 views 0 times favorited 35 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Brian Strothcamp

110 posts in 1194 days


520 days ago

Im wanting to recreate this frame out of Jatoba and Maple… I cant think of a single safe way to cut this on a power tool. Note the 45 on each end.

Router maybe… still must hand tool the 45
Table saw… same thing

I dont want just an inlay… must go all the way through and could be up to 8” in length

Im stumped


35 replies so far

View BentheViking's profile

BentheViking

1686 posts in 1064 days


#1 posted 520 days ago

band saw would be my first guess…how wide is that spline?

-- It's made of wood. Real sturdy.--Chubbs Peterson

View Gary's profile

Gary

6059 posts in 1933 days


#2 posted 520 days ago

If I had to do it, I’d put that spline in there before the wood was milled to final size and shape. Then, when you cut the angle on the frame, and the 45 for the corners, it would all line up. I hope that makes sence I can see it in my head but sometimes the fingers don’t do a good job of explaining

-- Gary, DeKalb Texas only 4 miles from the mill

View ShaneA's profile

ShaneA

4966 posts in 1099 days


#3 posted 520 days ago

You could rip the kerf for the spline on the table saw, and shape the end with a chisel.

Edit: by end I mean the rounded part the table table saw will leave behind. It would be mitered after the spline is glued in, dimensioned and routed for the rabbit.

View Brian Strothcamp's profile

Brian Strothcamp

110 posts in 1194 days


#4 posted 520 days ago

Width of the spline will vary… the only part i dont understand is cutting the void for the spline.

Shane, bandsaw would be too rough i think. I realy dont want to hand tool it either (quick xmas gifts ha)

View blackcherry's profile

blackcherry

3130 posts in 2323 days


#5 posted 520 days ago

Kerf cut on table saw first then add spline and then miter.

View trexco's profile

trexco

7 posts in 578 days


#6 posted 520 days ago

Custom ground blade (CA or DA) with 45 degree top bevel. Cut the slot, clean up small amount of arc, and cut spline to fit.

-- Nothing to it, but to do it ...

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

4448 posts in 1077 days


#7 posted 520 days ago

Lay it out
Cut it out
Miter the end with a chisel

Practice on scrap first, second, etc.

Good luck, you can do it.

View Moron's profile

Moron

4666 posts in 2394 days


#8 posted 520 days ago

blackcherry

some people just dont get it

-- "Good artists borrow, great artists steal”…..Picasso

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2895 posts in 787 days


#9 posted 520 days ago

How thick is the dark wood at it’s thickest point? I was thinking you could use half inch stock and simply angle it for the deep 45, then just treat it like molding at the corners. Rout out the maple slot.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2895 posts in 787 days


#10 posted 520 days ago

If you dont want the inlay, you’ll have to take the Jatoba and rip the lengths out, cut it where you want the maple and then glue the maple in.
Now all you need to do is angle the piece to 45 degree by tilting it back from the face of the frame. No need to do dangerous cuts to 45 degrees and the wood will have a much better surface grain.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View William's profile

William

8512 posts in 1343 days


#11 posted 520 days ago

I thought I had it, and type up a detailed explanation.
Then, before I could hit the post button, I thought about the forty five you mentioned on the end and went back to look.
I now don’t know either.
I’m marking this post to watch though.
I hope you come back and tell us how to do it.

-- http://wddsrfinewoodworks.blogspot.com/

View BinghamtonEd's profile

BinghamtonEd

1000 posts in 870 days


#12 posted 520 days ago

Kerf cut on table saw, clean up and make 45 with small jeweler’s file. Just my opinion. Or maybe something with lasers. That’d be cool.

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

View Brian Strothcamp's profile

Brian Strothcamp

110 posts in 1194 days


#13 posted 520 days ago

trexco

That’s the best concept i could think of as well

If the spline were short enough you could cut on end but limited to blade height (also thought this would be too dangerous) this would eliminate the arc.

You may not need to clean up the arc though if the spline were cut at the proper angle to just touch the front and back corners, this would leave a void the shape of the arc. And final milling would expose this gap.

Just dont want to order a funky blade grind unless I have too, but would bite the bullet if absolutely necessary.

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8473 posts in 2149 days


#14 posted 520 days ago

ripped on the TS – PRIOR to cutting the miter on the frame using a stopped cut (cut to line. stop TS, remove part, rinse and repeat)

the 45 at the end of the accent strip should be created and cleaned up with a narrow chisel.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View crank49's profile (online now)

crank49

3245 posts in 1471 days


#15 posted 520 days ago

A jig like this combined with a custom ground blade in your TS would do it. Not cheaply, but fast an high production capability.

Or, like this and hand make the little 45 in the corner with a fret saw or perhaps a custom ground chisel.

-- Michael :-{| Diapers and politicians both need to be changed often; and for the same reason.

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