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Spline - How would you make this?

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Forum topic by Brian Strothcamp posted 11-14-2012 02:45 AM 1176 views 0 times favorited 35 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Brian Strothcamp

110 posts in 1331 days


11-14-2012 02:45 AM

Im wanting to recreate this frame out of Jatoba and Maple… I cant think of a single safe way to cut this on a power tool. Note the 45 on each end.

Router maybe… still must hand tool the 45
Table saw… same thing

I dont want just an inlay… must go all the way through and could be up to 8” in length

Im stumped


35 replies so far

View BentheViking's profile

BentheViking

1752 posts in 1202 days


#1 posted 11-14-2012 03:21 AM

band saw would be my first guess…how wide is that spline?

-- It's made of wood. Real sturdy.--Chubbs Peterson

View Gary's profile

Gary

7126 posts in 2070 days


#2 posted 11-14-2012 03:22 AM

If I had to do it, I’d put that spline in there before the wood was milled to final size and shape. Then, when you cut the angle on the frame, and the 45 for the corners, it would all line up. I hope that makes sence I can see it in my head but sometimes the fingers don’t do a good job of explaining

-- Gary, DeKalb Texas only 4 miles from the mill

View ShaneA's profile

ShaneA

5291 posts in 1236 days


#3 posted 11-14-2012 03:27 AM

You could rip the kerf for the spline on the table saw, and shape the end with a chisel.

Edit: by end I mean the rounded part the table table saw will leave behind. It would be mitered after the spline is glued in, dimensioned and routed for the rabbit.

View Brian Strothcamp's profile

Brian Strothcamp

110 posts in 1331 days


#4 posted 11-14-2012 03:34 AM

Width of the spline will vary… the only part i dont understand is cutting the void for the spline.

Shane, bandsaw would be too rough i think. I realy dont want to hand tool it either (quick xmas gifts ha)

View blackcherry's profile

blackcherry

3159 posts in 2461 days


#5 posted 11-14-2012 03:38 AM

Kerf cut on table saw first then add spline and then miter.

View trexco's profile

trexco

7 posts in 716 days


#6 posted 11-14-2012 04:04 AM

Custom ground blade (CA or DA) with 45 degree top bevel. Cut the slot, clean up small amount of arc, and cut spline to fit.

-- Nothing to it, but to do it ...

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

4861 posts in 1214 days


#7 posted 11-14-2012 04:08 AM

Lay it out
Cut it out
Miter the end with a chisel

Practice on scrap first, second, etc.

Good luck, you can do it.

View Moron's profile

Moron

4666 posts in 2531 days


#8 posted 11-14-2012 05:27 AM

blackcherry

some people just dont get it

-- "Good artists borrow, great artists steal”…..Picasso

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2950 posts in 924 days


#9 posted 11-14-2012 05:34 AM

How thick is the dark wood at it’s thickest point? I was thinking you could use half inch stock and simply angle it for the deep 45, then just treat it like molding at the corners. Rout out the maple slot.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2950 posts in 924 days


#10 posted 11-14-2012 05:37 AM

If you dont want the inlay, you’ll have to take the Jatoba and rip the lengths out, cut it where you want the maple and then glue the maple in.
Now all you need to do is angle the piece to 45 degree by tilting it back from the face of the frame. No need to do dangerous cuts to 45 degrees and the wood will have a much better surface grain.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View William's profile

William

8979 posts in 1480 days


#11 posted 11-14-2012 12:26 PM

I thought I had it, and type up a detailed explanation.
Then, before I could hit the post button, I thought about the forty five you mentioned on the end and went back to look.
I now don’t know either.
I’m marking this post to watch though.
I hope you come back and tell us how to do it.

-- http://wddsrfinewoodworks.blogspot.com/

View BinghamtonEd's profile

BinghamtonEd

1274 posts in 1007 days


#12 posted 11-14-2012 01:11 PM

Kerf cut on table saw, clean up and make 45 with small jeweler’s file. Just my opinion. Or maybe something with lasers. That’d be cool.

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

View Brian Strothcamp's profile

Brian Strothcamp

110 posts in 1331 days


#13 posted 11-14-2012 02:41 PM

trexco

That’s the best concept i could think of as well

If the spline were short enough you could cut on end but limited to blade height (also thought this would be too dangerous) this would eliminate the arc.

You may not need to clean up the arc though if the spline were cut at the proper angle to just touch the front and back corners, this would leave a void the shape of the arc. And final milling would expose this gap.

Just dont want to order a funky blade grind unless I have too, but would bite the bullet if absolutely necessary.

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8476 posts in 2286 days


#14 posted 11-14-2012 02:51 PM

ripped on the TS – PRIOR to cutting the miter on the frame using a stopped cut (cut to line. stop TS, remove part, rinse and repeat)

the 45 at the end of the accent strip should be created and cleaned up with a narrow chisel.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View crank49's profile

crank49

3381 posts in 1608 days


#15 posted 11-14-2012 02:57 PM

A jig like this combined with a custom ground blade in your TS would do it. Not cheaply, but fast an high production capability.

Or, like this and hand make the little 45 in the corner with a fret saw or perhaps a custom ground chisel.

-- Michael :-{| “If you tell a big enough lie and tell it frequently enough, it will be believed.” ― A H

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