How to cut finger grooves in a cutting board

Hey Jeff, before I got my router table I would use a fence attachment on the router with the board in a vice. but now that I have the router table I use that. Good luck and remember to post pictures.

-- Everyone calls me Ed or Eddie , mom still calls me Edward if she is mad at me.

Jeff, I’m a bit confused as to what you are asking. If the board is 24” wide, 18” deep, and 2 1/5” thick, where do you want the groves? Along the center line of the 2 1/2” thickness?

Yes, I’m sorry, after I reread my post I thought it may be confusing. Your photo is exactly what I’m looking for.

-- Jeff

I’m guessing a core bit with the board on end at the router table, but there are probably lots of ways to get it done.

-- Jeff

I would just set stop blocks on the fence of my router table to control the start and stop of the cut, use a core bit (or whatever groove profile you want), set the fence so the center of the bit is 1.25” from it. Ease up on the depth of cut until you are happy. And as always, test your setup on scrap first.

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

Something like this will work. They have lots of sizes and shank lengths.

I have the 5” shank set which I flute turnings and such with. This is definately the easy way.

-- "Hard work is not defined by the difficulty of the task as much as a person's desire to perform it.", DS251

Jeff, no problem, I sort of like playing with the CAD, I’m trying to learn it. Like the other guys said the router table is ideal, do you have one? If you have no router table and this is a one off project there are work arounds that might suffice. Forget what I said….. DS251 has the winning answer if a router table is not in your shop. Still use stop blocks to get the best accuracy.

Casual1, as you’re learning CAD, I’m trying to figure out how to make a square in Sketchup (not really, I have given up on that completely).

I do have a table, but thought there might be other recommendations. It’s always a bit dicey cutting blind grooves and I don’t want to mess up the board now.

DS, that bit with the bearing would give me a cove cut on the top and bottom of the board, but not a groove in the middle of the board’s end.

Thanks for the replies…

-- Jeff

Jeff, set the center of the flute at 1/2 board thickness, the bearing will follow the lower edge of the board and cut the groove you want.

Got it! There we go…a different way to go about it! I like that better than putting the board on it’s end.

-- Jeff

It’s hard to shift one’s mindset once you get it in there to do it a certain way. It took me a second to realize you were stuck on cutting with the board on its end. That is pretty tough even with a router table.

These side-cutting flute bits are great for what you want to do. It’s much easier and safer with your router plate on the face of the board instead of the edge. The other nice feature of these bits over a core bit is that there is no “zero-velocity” point at the center of the cut, so they produce a nice clean cut without any burning.

-- "Hard work is not defined by the difficulty of the task as much as a person's desire to perform it.", DS251

That flute bit is a terrific idea! I can’t think of an easier way to do this. I do mine on the router table but I always get a bit of burning at the entry when I push the board down into the bit.

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flute bit, core box on router table, or handheld router with edgeguide will all work.
good luck

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