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How to cut finger grooves in a cutting board

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Forum topic by JNP posted 618 days ago 1827 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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JNP

105 posts in 1175 days


618 days ago

Hello all,
I’m finishing up a large cutting board (18×24x2.5) that is very heavy. I have searched for suggestions on the best way to rout/cut finger grooves in the end but haven’t found any direct answers.

I want the groove in the middle of the board, not a cut out on each side.

Any suggestions for the best way to accomplish this? I really don’t want to mess it up at this point!

Thank you.

Jeff

-- Jeff


13 replies so far

View prattman's profile

prattman

440 posts in 715 days


#1 posted 618 days ago

Hey Jeff, before I got my router table I would use a fence attachment on the router with the board in a vice. but now that I have the router table I use that. Good luck and remember to post pictures.

-- Everyone calls me Ed or Eddie , mom still calls me Edward if she is mad at me.

View casual1carpenter's profile

casual1carpenter

353 posts in 1073 days


#2 posted 618 days ago

Jeff, I’m a bit confused as to what you are asking. If the board is 24” wide, 18” deep, and 2 1/5” thick, where do you want the groves? Along the center line of the 2 1/2” thickness?

View JNP's profile

JNP

105 posts in 1175 days


#3 posted 618 days ago

Yes, I’m sorry, after I reread my post I thought it may be confusing. Your photo is exactly what I’m looking for.

-- Jeff

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JNP

105 posts in 1175 days


#4 posted 618 days ago

I’m guessing a core bit with the board on end at the router table, but there are probably lots of ways to get it done.

-- Jeff

View BinghamtonEd's profile

BinghamtonEd

1195 posts in 967 days


#5 posted 618 days ago

I would just set stop blocks on the fence of my router table to control the start and stop of the cut, use a core bit (or whatever groove profile you want), set the fence so the center of the bit is 1.25” from it. Ease up on the depth of cut until you are happy. And as always, test your setup on scrap first.

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

View DS's profile

DS

2131 posts in 1018 days


#6 posted 618 days ago

Something like this will work. They have lots of sizes and shank lengths.

I have the 5” shank set which I flute turnings and such with. This is definately the easy way.

-- "Hard work is not defined by the difficulty of the task as much as a person's desire to perform it.", DS251

View casual1carpenter's profile

casual1carpenter

353 posts in 1073 days


#7 posted 618 days ago

Jeff, no problem, I sort of like playing with the CAD, I’m trying to learn it. Like the other guys said the router table is ideal, do you have one? If you have no router table and this is a one off project there are work arounds that might suffice. Forget what I said….. DS251 has the winning answer if a router table is not in your shop. Still use stop blocks to get the best accuracy.

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JNP

105 posts in 1175 days


#8 posted 618 days ago

Casual1, as you’re learning CAD, I’m trying to figure out how to make a square in Sketchup (not really, I have given up on that completely).

I do have a table, but thought there might be other recommendations. It’s always a bit dicey cutting blind grooves and I don’t want to mess up the board now.

DS, that bit with the bearing would give me a cove cut on the top and bottom of the board, but not a groove in the middle of the board’s end.

Thanks for the replies…

-- Jeff

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casual1carpenter

353 posts in 1073 days


#9 posted 618 days ago

Jeff, set the center of the flute at 1/2 board thickness, the bearing will follow the lower edge of the board and cut the groove you want.

View JNP's profile

JNP

105 posts in 1175 days


#10 posted 618 days ago

Got it! There we go…a different way to go about it! I like that better than putting the board on it’s end.

-- Jeff

View DS's profile

DS

2131 posts in 1018 days


#11 posted 618 days ago

It’s hard to shift one’s mindset once you get it in there to do it a certain way. It took me a second to realize you were stuck on cutting with the board on its end. That is pretty tough even with a router table.

These side-cutting flute bits are great for what you want to do. It’s much easier and safer with your router plate on the face of the board instead of the edge. The other nice feature of these bits over a core bit is that there is no “zero-velocity” point at the center of the cut, so they produce a nice clean cut without any burning.

-- "Hard work is not defined by the difficulty of the task as much as a person's desire to perform it.", DS251

View lumberjoe's profile

lumberjoe

2827 posts in 846 days


#12 posted 618 days ago

That flute bit is a terrific idea! I can’t think of an easier way to do this. I do mine on the router table but I always get a bit of burning at the entry when I push the board down into the bit.

-- www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

3265 posts in 1411 days


#13 posted 618 days ago

flute bit, core box on router table, or handheld router with edgeguide will all work.
good luck

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

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