Steel Wool or Scotch Brite?? What'ya do?

Which scotch brite? I’m in the finishing stages of a project now and had a friend give me a brown one, said it was the best hardness to use. He’s been doing this for over 50 years as his profession so I’ll see how it works out.

-- --Rev. Russ in NY-- A posse ad esse

I was using grey…dunno what’s best for you

-- Steve - Dust sucks!

Using steel wool on wood? Please say you’re using on metal.

-- Failure does not stop me, it makes me try harder..... because I'm crazy.

000 rubbing in a finish

-- Steve - Dust sucks!

Have you tried Abranet Abrasives instead of wool? You can wet sand with them and I think they go up to 4k.

-- Failure does not stop me, it makes me try harder..... because I'm crazy.

you’ve never used steel wool to rub in wax, or fine out oil

-- Steve - Dust sucks!

I think many years ago I tried, but all I got was a ruined finish from the discoloration the wool left. Never went back. Of course I don’t usually work a finish to that kind of shine, I prefer satin.

-- Failure does not stop me, it makes me try harder..... because I'm crazy.

wet, as in how are you wetting, oil wet?

-- Steve - Dust sucks!

Some use compounds, or some concoction of their own. I would think a bit of oil would work but I ‘d have to check with Charles Neil about it first and he’d likely have a better idea to get the shine.

-- Failure does not stop me, it makes me try harder..... because I'm crazy.

4/0 steel wool…#0000

The simplest rubbed finish is one that is done with #0000 steel wool, or equivalent abrasive pad. Nothing more is involved than rubbing the surface in long strokes with the grain of the wood. As long as the strokes are straight and you keep an even pressure, the scratch marks you leave with the steel wool will soften and enhance the appearance and feel of the finish.

It’s unlikely you will rub through to the wood if you have applied at least three coats of a film-building finish.

But you have to be careful not to cut through the finish on edges. To avoid this, begin rubbing flat surfaces with short 3-inch to 6-inch strokes right up to the edge. Then connect these strokes with long straight strokes running the entire length of the surface, avoiding coming right up to the edge.

You can use a lubricant (soapy water, mineral spirits, mineral oil, or wax) with your steel wool, or you can rub without a lubricant. With water-based finishes you shouldn’t use mineral spirits, which can soften the finish.

-- Steve - Dust sucks!

I usually rub out with steel wool 4/0 with Paste wax

-- Steve - Dust sucks!

How do you conclude your finishes?

-- Steve - Dust sucks!

It depends on what I’m making. Lately I have been making a lot from cedar. I sand it to about 180 or 220 then I use Danish oil. On cedar I like to give it thick coats and let it dry between. Using mineral spirits I clean it off and to top coat I use Arm-R-Seal. One coat is enough. I’ll give it a wipe with 600g and wipe with a soft cloth. Let it set for a couple weeks to gas-off and it’s done.

-- Failure does not stop me, it makes me try harder..... because I'm crazy.

Nice.

-- Steve - Dust sucks!

I am sick of buffing out finishes.
watco 2 coats…Arm r seal 1 coat, Goddards paste wax…and see ya!
No sanding in between any coats, no buffing till the final paste wax.
Sand everything to 320 beforehand.

-- Steve - Dust sucks!