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Tips for removing dried glue

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Forum topic by steve6678 posted 610 days ago 1017 views 1 time favorited 28 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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steve6678

438 posts in 647 days


610 days ago

I have always struggled with this.
I try to sand all my parts down to 3 grits (120, 150, 180) then dry fit, then assemble with glue.
To minimize sanding a assembled piece.
I try to use just the right amount, no more…no less. Of course if your doing things correctly you get squeeze-out.
So, do I attack it while it’s wet? Hmm, makes a mess sometimes.
Do I wait for it to dry, and have to get into some hairy 90 Deg. crevices?
I use a cabinet scraper where I can then sand…and sand…and sand.

What do you do?
Many, I mean many Mortise & Tenons on this Bed project, and many glue Joints.

-- Steve - Dust sucks!


28 replies so far

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

4702 posts in 1164 days


#1 posted 610 days ago

After a dry fit and everything’s a go, I stain and or finish my project
with Danish oil, and or sanding sealer, what ever the case may be.

Sometimes I tape off the area, like a dado or rabbet, and then seal it
and apply glue after a dry fit.

Others will have ideas that work well for them as well.

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steve6678

438 posts in 647 days


#2 posted 610 days ago

you finish before you assemble?

-- Steve - Dust sucks!

View Loren's profile

Loren

7173 posts in 2235 days


#3 posted 610 days ago

Prefinish parts with shellac, except where the glue needs to
go. The glue won’t stick to the shellac and it certainly
won’t get in the pores where you don’t want it.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View derosa's profile

derosa

1532 posts in 1423 days


#4 posted 610 days ago

Especially on objects that have lots of corners and crevices it is easier to do a dry fit to check assembly and then apply finish to all the objects disassembled. Just tape off the tennons and toss some rags in the mortises. Or tape off the exposed surfaces by the joint and once you’ve assembled you can use a damp cloth to remove excess glue, then remove the tape and finish.

-- --Rev. Russ in NY-- A posse ad esse

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waho6o9

4702 posts in 1164 days


#5 posted 610 days ago

@ Steve6678: Yes

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steve6678

438 posts in 647 days


#6 posted 610 days ago

Okay.
I use Danish oil, then Gel top coat.
I’ll oil the parts (-) any glue-up areas.
Nice

-- Steve - Dust sucks!

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waho6o9

4702 posts in 1164 days


#7 posted 610 days ago

Yeah buddy!

May be save the last coats, if possible, after the glue dries
and your done cleaning up any squeeze out.

You’ll get the hang of it, and hopefully better results.

View steve6678's profile

steve6678

438 posts in 647 days


#8 posted 610 days ago

I see most woodworkers glue-up BEFORE any finish.
How do they deal with the final clean up of glue, and a sanding regiment?

-- Steve - Dust sucks!

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waho6o9

4702 posts in 1164 days


#9 posted 610 days ago

I’m not sure Steve.

I prefer to seal it first as I dislike seeing glue marks.

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a1Jim

111999 posts in 2164 days


#10 posted 610 days ago

You can prefinish or apply tape where squeeze out is possible or use a card scraper to remove it when it’s dry,better yet remove it just as it firms up but is not dry. push comes to shove you can try to steam or use hot water on areas that not close to joinery.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View davidroberts's profile

davidroberts

1001 posts in 2073 days


#11 posted 610 days ago

Nowadays with the strength of modern glues, I try to use a few tricks to keep the amount of glue used to a minimum and keep the squeeze out down, such as leaving a bit of space at the bottom of mortises as a glue “well”, only coat the lower half of the tenon, bevel the shoulders to accommodate room for squeeze-out, etc. I had a near catastrophe with hardened squeeze out on wax paper. What a mess, and time and effort. In my opinion, less glue is more. If you can go off for 30 minutes or so then come back, the glue will be hard enough to scrap off but not so hard as to make removal near impossible without a chisel and hammer, or soft enough to make a mess. If you choose to wipe it off just after clamping, use a tooth brush or nylon brush to scrub out the pores, rather than just taking swipes with a wet rag. It’s the glue pushed down into the pores when wipeing that will cause a problem with the finish.

-- God is Great, Wood is Good. nuff said.

View oldnovice's profile

oldnovice

3521 posts in 1955 days


#12 posted 610 days ago

Finish B4 gluing, that’s what I do … most of the time and sometimes tape off the no glued areas!

I tried the set sponge but it made more of a mess and if the wipe off area is bare wood the glue gets into the grain and spoils the final finish!

-- "I never met a board I didn't like!"

View bobasaurus's profile

bobasaurus

1170 posts in 1771 days


#13 posted 610 days ago

Lots of masking with painters tape for me, especially on inside corners. I peel it off before the glue fully cures.

-- Allen, Colorado

View NiteWalker's profile

NiteWalker

2650 posts in 1164 days


#14 posted 610 days ago

I wait for it to gel up a bit and then remove it with a small steel ruler. Especially useful in corners.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

10438 posts in 1277 days


#15 posted 609 days ago

I do it just like NiteWalker. Those steel rules make great scrapers and will get into tight corners well.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

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