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Ridgid R4512 bevel not square

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Forum topic by love2cad posted 611 days ago 1683 views 2 times favorited 29 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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love2cad

39 posts in 643 days


611 days ago

Hello all.. I am having some issues with my Ridgid R4512 table saw. I have spent the morning paralleling the blade to the table. In the 90deg position is looks great. I have gotten it with in .001” (using a dial caliper). However, when I tilt the blade over to 45deg the blade it no longer parallel to the table and is out almost .150” from the front tooth to the back when fully extended.

I have adjusted and readjusted it like 10 times today and still no luck. I am curious if anyone else has had this problem. And if so, how is it bandaided? It seems like the motor mount it not machined correctly since the front raises on a different plane than the rear does.

Anyway, thanks!

Bobby

-- Bobby


29 replies so far

View crank49's profile

crank49

3325 posts in 1558 days


#1 posted 611 days ago

Live with it is how I “fixed” mine.

I have the same POS with a Craftsman badge.

-- Michael :-{| “If you tell a big enough lie and tell it frequently enough, it will be believed.” ― A H

View Tedstor's profile

Tedstor

1369 posts in 1220 days


#2 posted 611 days ago

From what I understand, the problem your having is common with that saw. Unfortunately, its not repairable.

My condolences.

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2935 posts in 873 days


#3 posted 611 days ago

I tried mine at 45 the other day and it felt like there is a bunch of sawdust stuck at the end of the bevel and wont let it get there smoothly. I didn’t have any problem after I bought it. I tested it. Now I too have that problem. I’m going to try and blow the dust out of it and see if it improves. Had they made the throw on that bevel go to 50 degrees, they could have avoided this.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View crank49's profile

crank49

3325 posts in 1558 days


#4 posted 611 days ago

HA!
Had they done ANYTHING on this design that was better than the absolute bare minimum they could get away with they could have avoided a bunch of problems.

-- Michael :-{| “If you tell a big enough lie and tell it frequently enough, it will be believed.” ― A H

View jeff's profile

jeff

632 posts in 2052 days


#5 posted 611 days ago

sorry Bobby i have the same saw…no problems with mine,maybe you could return it for a new one…

-- Jeff,Tucson,Az.

View love2cad's profile

love2cad

39 posts in 643 days


#6 posted 611 days ago

So after a long day of fighting with the saw it seems like it’s a permanent problem. I called Ridgid and they claimed they had never heard of that issue before. They also noted that they didn’t know how it could be adjusted. Also I went and checked out my father-in-laws saw (same one I have) and his also has the same issue.

I guess I will deal with it the best I can until I have go out and buy a much better saw. Thanks everyone for the comments.

I will try to blow out the dust and see if that makes any difference.

Bobby

-- Bobby

View toolie's profile

toolie

1714 posts in 1215 days


#7 posted 610 days ago

bobby….. i believe the problem you’re experiencing is unrelated to the arbor issues of the 4512, the c-man 21833 and the grizzly 0715P. as the blade is tilted to 45 degrees, the geometric plane (the tilt axis) that the blade occupies about a single line is being rotated. additional adjustments are usually necessary, especially with cabinet saws as the top is separate from the attachment points of the trunnions. this is usually a trial and error adjustment, but this thread from the ridgid forum, contains a paper which describes how to measure the adjustment necessary and actually make the necessary adjustment:

https://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/t25836/

see post #15 for the updated write up as the original paper linked in the opening post had a few errors in it. while the 4512 has table mounted trunions, the process detailed in the paper will work. i used it to verify and adjust the bevel blade alignment of my 2 emerson electric contractor saws, both of which also have table mounted trunions. hope this helps.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View love2cad's profile

love2cad

39 posts in 643 days


#8 posted 610 days ago

toolie…. that is excellent. Thank you!!!

Since you have done this a few times I have a question. If I’m interpreting the information correctly… I will need to shim (lower) my front trunion mounting points when my blade is higher/closer to the bevel miter slot when compared to the rear.

As you can see in the image. The front of the blade is higher/closer to the miter slot since the blade contacts the straight edge frist.

-- Bobby

View LeChuck's profile

LeChuck

417 posts in 1649 days


#9 posted 610 days ago

I’ve realigned my saw today as when I did it the first time I didn’t have a dial indicator, and I realized later that it was still slightly out. I got it very close at the 90 degree position, but it seems like there is always a slight change as you raise or lower the blade, although it is not huge on my saw, perhaps 0.001 or 0.002 difference. I haven’t checked the 45 degree position precisely because my little jig cannot be positioned properly for that, but I tried with an electronic bevel gauge, checking the angle at the front of the blade then at the back, and it was identical. Less precise of course.

I wanted to make 2 comments: it seems that using the stops (set screws in the top, in front of the blade) can throw out your adjustment. They have a lot of force. Personally, I’ll back them off and won’t be using them at all, it’s more precise to rely on the scale (after it gets set properly for 90) and a bevel gauge for the occasional 45 degree cut than to worry about how much force you put against the stops when changing the position, I’d end up checking the angle anyway..

Second, it seems that the alignment is very sensitive to how much you tighten the front wheel after a height adjustment. In my case, and after setting the alignment while in that position (however, I had loosened the knob on the bevel wheel), it seems that the alignment is best when the knob is tightened to the max. It can go off by a few thousands when less tight.

So, I’m not sure how this also impacts the 45 degree alignment, but good to note I guess.

-- David - Tucson, AZ

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toolie

1714 posts in 1215 days


#10 posted 609 days ago

bobby…it’s been a few years since i visited this alignment, so i’m rusty. based on your pic, your approach certainly sounds correct. but the white paper included in that thread details the procedure for calculating the necessary adjustment and where it needs to be applied. the paper, almost scholarly in nature, takes a while to work through, but will get you where you need to be.

lechuck ….... not sure if the 90 and 45 stops affect the alignment issue bobby is experiencing, but like you, i back my stops out completely and never rely on them.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View love2cad's profile

love2cad

39 posts in 643 days


#11 posted 609 days ago

LeChuck.. I too have backed off the stops so that isn’t the problem. It is diffidently the swing in the rotational axis.

toolie.. I have read through the whole document and while its intense on the surface I fully understand the math and principles behind it. Since I currently don’t have a dial gauge and miter adapter I wont be able to precisely calculate the necessary slim size. So, I was merely looking for some kind of confirmation from someone who has don’t it that I was on the right track.

I will be tackling this later this afternoon and I hope to write up a blog post about it. Thanks again for the connection to the forum post with the “answer.”

Bobby

-- Bobby

View jte9999's profile

jte9999

25 posts in 689 days


#12 posted 609 days ago

love2cad…I too have a similar problem with a 40+ yr craftsman ts. In looking for some answers I stumbled upon an article in the Feb 95 issue of American Woodworker:
Google Books
the above link should get you to the issue, article starts on page 30.
I haven’t tried any adjustments on my saw yet but expect to soon. I’ll post any results I have.
Hope this helps,
—jay

-- --half full, half empty? How about twice as big as it needs to be?

View toolie's profile

toolie

1714 posts in 1215 days


#13 posted 608 days ago

jte9999 …....... same exercise as detailed in the ridgid forum thread.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View lumberjoe's profile

lumberjoe

2824 posts in 835 days


#14 posted 608 days ago

Toolie, that’s a good write-up for the R4511, but one major difference on the R4512 has table mounted trunions; not cabinet mounted trunions.

-- www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

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toolie

1714 posts in 1215 days


#15 posted 608 days ago

lumberjoe…..i am aware of that. the only difference in effecting the adjustment, once the shim size and location are determined, is that the 4512 will have it’s shims applied between the trunion mounting brackets and the bottom of the table. the 4511, with cabinet mounted trunions, will have the shims applied between the trunion bracket and the cabinet. regardless of how the trunions are mounted to a saw, the technique remains applicable.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

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