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Drum sander versus Belt sander for large pieces (a shop review)

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Forum topic by NY_Rocking_Chairs posted 111 days ago 502 views 1 time favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites
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NY_Rocking_Chairs

277 posts in 134 days


111 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: tip sander

So I convinced my wife of the sacrifice I would make by building a drum sander. Recently I did a large dresser top with the belt sander method and four smaller tops with the drum sander, here is what I think of the methods…

The drum sander is a 30” stockroom supply kit, with a 3hp sealed 3450 RPM motor purchased seperately, I used a 4” pulley on the drum and a 2” pulley on the motor to reduce the drum down to 1725 RPM as called out by SRS. The pullies came from Grainger. The table top is 24” x 40” with the groove cut in the middle for the drum.
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/9205

Doing small tops (24×36”) on the drum sander is pretty easy. I used 16 lbs pavers to help keep a distrubuted load and pressure on the wood as it passed over the drum. Starting with 80 grit, to 150 grit and finally to 220 grit. The top came out very smooth, flat and even. I did not sand out the joints prior to going on the drum sander so I spent about 2 hours per side on the 80 grit, about 30 minutes per side on 150 and 220. The thing to watch for is as you play the top back and forth over the sander, where you pause to go from push/pull or vice versa it creates low areas in the work. Making several passes over this transition area at the end cleans up these areas to create a uniform surface.

Here are the tables done with the drum sander:
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/8916
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/8767

After finishing with the 220 on the drum, I switched over to the 5” Random Orbital and spent another 15 minutes each with 350 and 400 grit, followed by the 500 grit to get the shiney finish. Each top took about 4 hours total of sanding with this method and this method had the flattest and most even thickness finished top.

The large dresser top I did with the belt sander. The glued up piece was 24” x 68” and since I don’t have a tension fence on the drum sander yet, I opted to clamp it to my work table and belt sand it at 60 grit. It took about an hour to get each side belt sanded smooth and even. At this point I switched to only sanding the top side to finish grade. It took 3 hours with the RO sander at 100 grit to remove all the scratches and low spots in the top. If I had higher grit belts this might speed up, but I only use the belt sander for very rough sanding. Another 30 minutes with each: 220, 350, 400 and 500. So about 7 hours of sanding time with this method to do only the top side that you can see, but the top is twice as big as the drum sander example top. There was a lot of time spent sanding out low and uneven spots left by the belt sander that the drum sander would have eliminated up front.
As soon as the dresser is completely finished I will post the project. I glued up the last of the drawer fronts yesterday so today should see final assembly and first coat of finish applied.

In conclusion I prefer the drum sander method for time and finish and will be setting up a tension fence to hold the work down against the drum so I can do the larger tops on the drum sander.

-- Rich, WNY, www.nyrockingchairs.com

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tenontim

960 posts in 281 days


111 days ago

Thanks for this insight into the drum sander that you’re using. I’m still on the drawing board trying to design one that will do what I want. My main concern is the lack of hold down for the piece you’re sanding. Someone mentioned the rollers or skate wheels for hold downs. I don’t think it would be to difficult to make some hold down with spring tension to provide the holding force. And now the time factor. The hours you spent sanding the tops to get them even and smooth, I think I could do in less time with a hand plane and go right to a ROS. I’ve got a clamping rack on the drawing board that should eliminate most of the unevenness that can happen during glue up, so that may not be too much of a concern. I’ll post a blog about that when I get it welded up and tested.
Thanks for the post.

-- Tim -- http://tmuli.com

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rick3ddd

10 posts in 298 days


110 days ago

The curved caul method ensures flawless registration during glue up. I always plane to finished thickness then glue up the panel in one shop. I can do 4’ x 8’ panels myself and after the glue dries I only have to scrape off the glue and sand out the planer marks. Best of all the curved caul method uses clamps you already have.

From my commercial woodworking experience I much prefer a stroke sander over a drum sander. I could do the tops Rich dedscribed in about 15 minutes and no random orbit sander would be needed.

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tenontim

960 posts in 281 days


110 days ago

Rick, I agree that a stroke sander is the way to go, but I don’t really have the room for one, if I built it large enough to handle any expected size table. I’ve had the plans laying around for years, just never had a shop big enough to put it in. I also agree with the curved caul method. I’m using them with the glue rack that I’m building.

-- Tim -- http://tmuli.com

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NY_Rocking_Chairs

277 posts in 134 days


110 days ago

Wow, I had never heard of a stroke sander before and now that I have seen one, that would be pretty neat. Of course I am out of room for one now…

-- Rich, WNY, www.nyrockingchairs.com

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Schummie

44 posts in 302 days


78 days ago

Guys,

did you see this drumsander
I find this one great but maybe you have greater idea’s.

Greetings Schummie.

-- Greetings from the Netherlands.

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