chipout around dado edges

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Forum topic by yrob posted 11-04-2012 03:25 PM 1042 views 1 time favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View yrob's profile


340 posts in 2744 days

11-04-2012 03:25 PM

Topic tags/keywords: tablesaw

i am building a case and my birch plywood is chipping a bit at the edges of the dadoes. how do you avoid that ? do i just have a cheap dado stack ? ( a mibro) and need to invest in a forest dado or the like ?

i do have a zero clearance insert but unfortunately it was made for 3/4 dado and i am cutting 3/8.

it does appear i get chipout on one side which may be the unsupported side. Do you guys make inserts for all the standard dado sizes or would a high quality stack fix that anyway ?

-- Yves

8 replies so far

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

4022 posts in 3052 days

#1 posted 11-04-2012 03:31 PM

You could score the cut lines with a SHARP knife first. Just might be the cure.


View Loren's profile


7967 posts in 2739 days

#2 posted 11-04-2012 03:32 PM

Make a new insert. You can also plot out where the dado will be
and put masking tape over it before you cut.

I better quality dado set will cut better as well.


View knotscott's profile


6370 posts in 2467 days

#3 posted 11-04-2012 03:42 PM

There’s a lot of tearout on that cut. You don’t need to invest dado set at the level of a Forrest to get great results, but something better than the Mibro might be in order…..Oshlun, Avenger, Freud, CMT, and Delta/DeWalt offer some good sets for </= ~ $100. For ~ $150-$190 the Infinity Dadonator is the cat’s pajamas.

The tips mentioned should help, as well as slowing down your feed rate. If you’ve got a router, a sharp router bit may yield better results too.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View a1Jim's profile


113836 posts in 2669 days

#4 posted 11-04-2012 03:44 PM

I agree with Bill and Loren and might add that you might be able to take a series of cuts start with one just deep enough to cut the top veneer. I could be you dado blade is dull or needs cleaning or on some plywood the top veneer is so thin it’s all but impossible not to get tear out. When I had some ply like that I had to use a standard rip blade and do a lite cut on each side of my dado and then router the groove.

-- Custom furniture

View Kreegan's profile


1452 posts in 1238 days

#5 posted 11-04-2012 10:52 PM

I would try some masking or painters tape over the path of the dado. I’ve had good luck with that technique. Perhaps make some kind of adjustable zero clearance insert that you could shim to adjust to different dado widths?


View cutworm's profile


1074 posts in 1885 days

#6 posted 11-05-2012 01:17 AM

I agree with Knot. My router does better than my saw on plywood. Trying to hog off too much too quick causes tear-out as well.

-- Steve - "Never Give Up"

View Ted's profile


2605 posts in 1303 days

#7 posted 11-05-2012 01:29 AM

I don’t even own a dado set, since my cheap Ryobi table saw won’t fit one. I use a router with a carbide up-cut spiral bit, which gives me clean cuts every time.

-- There are three types of people in this world... those who make things happen, those who watch things happen, and those who wonder what happened.

View yrob's profile


340 posts in 2744 days

#8 posted 11-05-2012 02:44 AM

Thanks everybody for the suggestions.

I will just make a zero clearance plate for my 3/8” dado. I just checked with the same plywood and I do not get chipout when I cut a 3/4 dado with my zero clearance plate cut for that.

As far as using a router, I have a crappy ryobi router (not table saw..) and I do not like using it any more than I have to. I am budgeting to get a porter cable but its not in the cards for now. I guess if I end up doing bookcase shelves I may need to rout it since it is going to be perilous to balance a 8 ft long plywood side on the left of the saw to cut the bottom dado….

-- Yves

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