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Forum topic by steve6678 posted 10-29-2012 10:36 PM 668 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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steve6678

438 posts in 805 days


10-29-2012 10:36 PM

I have several pieces cut to final dimensions and sitting around, some as long as 60”x3 1/2”x?.
I have been stacking them on top of each other for weight value, but see some bowing already, 2-3 days later…
Any qualified suggestions?

-- Steve - Dust sucks!


13 replies so far

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steve6678

438 posts in 805 days


#1 posted 10-29-2012 10:36 PM

Hard Maple and Cherry

-- Steve - Dust sucks!

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nwbusa

1017 posts in 1031 days


#2 posted 10-29-2012 10:46 PM

I don’t know if my suggestion is qualified, but in general I try not to cut anything to final dimensions until I am ready to assemble. Too much risk of wood movement if it’s left laying around after milling.

-- John, BC, Canada

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David Craig

2135 posts in 1853 days


#3 posted 10-29-2012 10:47 PM

Surfacing and cutting will often change the stresses of the wood which will result in more wood movement. Others will probably have good suggestions for dealing with the current problem. When you are planing the board, are you planing both sides? Sometimes, when you joint one side but only plane the other, the wood stresses will be unbalanced. I usually plane to thickness by running the board through on both sides to even things out a bit. Stacking the boards will also result in uneven airflow to the wood where the moisture content will be higher on one side of the board than the other. You might want to flip the boards and restack. I tend to lay my boards on the side, when possible, or use spacers when stacking. One other suggestion I would have is to resist the temptation to mill to finished sizes until you are about ready to work on that particular part of the project. Wood will change, sometimes considerably, before you can get to that project piece.

David

-- There is little that is simple when it comes to making a simple box.

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steve6678

438 posts in 805 days


#4 posted 10-30-2012 11:15 PM

thanks

-- Steve - Dust sucks!

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WDHLT15

1210 posts in 1221 days


#5 posted 10-31-2012 02:05 AM

Sticker stack with stickers every 12”. Lay some heavier rough lumber on top. Air needs to circulate freely around each board. If more moisture change takes place on one side more than the other, you will get bow.

-- Danny Located in Perry, GA. Forester. Wood-Mizer LT15 Sawmill. Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln. hamsleyhardwood.com

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steve6678

438 posts in 805 days


#6 posted 10-31-2012 02:06 AM

nice…thanks

-- Steve - Dust sucks!

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HorizontalMike

6967 posts in 1659 days


#7 posted 10-31-2012 02:11 AM

Steve, I have also found this out after the fact. What I do now is to cut/resaw all of my 3/4” to 1” and let them set for a couple of days. maybe more, to see what warping or twisting occurs. After that “rest” I then plane them to thickness and have found “less” warping occurs this way. As mentioned above, keeping assembly as close to final sizing is your best bet, when ever you can.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

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steve6678

438 posts in 805 days


#8 posted 10-31-2012 02:23 AM

bummer…
I have many parts sized and ready…but I am not, ha.
I will take it as it comes and try to get good fits, especially because I’ve yet to mortise & tenon anything, well it’ll all fit, that’s my attitude, yes-sah! (I’ll…umm, make it fit)

-- Steve - Dust sucks!

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knothead

155 posts in 2693 days


#9 posted 10-31-2012 02:35 AM

I have been building a dresser as part of a new bedroom suite and I decided I wanted to have a ship lap back on it instead of plywood. I try to never use plywood in any of my furniture unless I just have to. Anyway, I’m using poplar as the back of the dresser and several moths ago (been out of the shop for some surgery I had a while back) I re-sawed some 5/4 planks that are 6” wide and then I stickered them and wrapped stretch wrap around the pile at the location of the stickers. They have been resting now for months and no twisting or movement so far. I still need to thickness them on down to 1/2” and put the ship laps in them when I am ready to use them but that has seemed to work great so far.

Another thing I have had great success with on this project is a tip I remember from Charles Neil. I glued up the book matched panels for the dressers frame and panel ends and took them to final thickness long before I was ready to use them and I placed them in large plastic bags and tied them shut and when I was ready to use them they were just as flat and square as the day they were made.

Good Luck! – Chris

-- So Much Wood - So Little Time! --

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steve6678

438 posts in 805 days


#10 posted 10-31-2012 02:38 AM

Thanks Chris, cool stuff

-- Steve - Dust sucks!

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a1Jim

112818 posts in 2322 days


#11 posted 10-31-2012 03:24 AM

Hi Steve
I agree with the folks above, but the thing to do is to always make your material is to long.to wide and to thick and do your final trimming as close to assembly time as possible. Another mistake folks make is when the plane wood the plan everything off of one side instead alternating from one side to the other,this helps keep the moisture content equal and helps keep your wood from twisting,cupping and other having problems. Even with all of the above tips some wood just has inter tension and still will warp and twist no matter what you do.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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a1Jim

112818 posts in 2322 days


#12 posted 10-31-2012 03:28 AM

I just noticed I repeated part of what David Craig said about planning ,sorry about that.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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Loren

7822 posts in 2393 days


#13 posted 10-31-2012 03:48 AM

Some people wrap wood parts in plastic pallet wrap.

I usually do not stack and sticker milled parts. I lean them
against a wall so air circulates around each part. In
So. Cal this has worked ok for me. In other areas it
may not work so well.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

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