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what kind of finish ?

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Forum topic by kizerpea posted 638 days ago 638 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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kizerpea

746 posts in 969 days


638 days ago

There is a bed plan in wood mag…country fresh bed…with a blueish finish..anyone know what kind of finish this is an how to apply it?

-- IF YOUR NOT MAKING DUST...YOU ARE COLLECTING IT! SOUTH CAROLINA.


7 replies so far

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2938 posts in 888 days


#1 posted 638 days ago

It’s likely a die. If the wood you are using is soft or has softer summer growth, you might want to go to Charles Neil’s site and get you some pre color conditioner, http://shop.charlesneilwoodworking.com/Finishing-Products_c_11.html Keeps it from blotching.

I’m sure others will agree and help you out with specific product.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View Clint Searl's profile

Clint Searl

1389 posts in 963 days


#2 posted 638 days ago

You can colorize wood to any color and shade with plain old latex/acrylic interior wall paint. Just sponge it on and wipe it off to get the desired intensity. Top coat with waterborne poly. Nothing to it, and no “conditioner” is needed.

-- Clint Searl.............We deserve what we tolerate

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

1648 posts in 1095 days


#3 posted 638 days ago

I built that bedroom set, although I used cherry and didn’t finish as they did. The bluish finish is described completely in a separate article in the previous issue of the magazine, along with the plans for building the matching chest. The cliff notes version (I pulled the issue, this isn’t something I could, or would, remember) is sand to 220, apply Zar 137 White Oak stain (lightly). Then brush on Zar Antiquing Wedgewood Blue latex paint (!). Immediately, use a clean cloth to wipe off enough of the paint so the white stain shows through. (takes practice, I guess) Then use sandpaper and Scothbrite pads to simulate worn areas on spots you think they should be. Next step is to apply patina by wiping on a coat of Zar Antiquing Glaze, then removing most of it with a clean cloth. Next you splatter the surface, dipping a toothbrush into some Zar Black Antiquing Glaze (wonder if Zar sponsored this?) and then flick the bristles to put some spots of the black on the finish. (All cautions apply). Lastly (finally) apply a coat of (yep, you guessed it) Zar satin varnish over everything. (Whew!). Still think you want to try it? The issue is 110 (Dec. 1998) and the guy that developed it is at Living History Farms in Des Moines, IA. Robby Pederson is his name. Good luck with this, if you dare!

-- I long for the days when Coke was a cola, and a joint was a bad place to be (Merle Haggard)

View kizerpea's profile

kizerpea

746 posts in 969 days


#4 posted 638 days ago

WOW…that helps alot…i,ll try it..zar…is that lowes or home depot

-- IF YOUR NOT MAKING DUST...YOU ARE COLLECTING IT! SOUTH CAROLINA.

View Clint Searl's profile

Clint Searl

1389 posts in 963 days


#5 posted 638 days ago

Way too complicated! Here’s a project I did using the technique described, above.

-- Clint Searl.............We deserve what we tolerate

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kizerpea

746 posts in 969 days


#6 posted 637 days ago

fred ,,clint…thanks for the info …i might have issue 110..just got in the shop so i,ll start digging for it

thanks again..

-- IF YOUR NOT MAKING DUST...YOU ARE COLLECTING IT! SOUTH CAROLINA.

View steve6678's profile

steve6678

438 posts in 662 days


#7 posted 633 days ago

Well, I haven’t seen the Bed, but I am building a bed, Hard Maple & Cherry.
I NEVER stain anything. That’s just me…I have customers choose a species that resembles the tone of color they desire.
I have great results putting Watco Danish Oil “NATURAL”on…twice, wait a week or 72 hours, but I always wait a week.
And, apply General Finishes Satin Top-Coat; wipe-on, wipe-off, twice…
NO SANDING IN BETWEEN ANY COATS!

-- Steve - Dust sucks!

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