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Brad Point vs Fostner

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Forum topic by Swyftfeet posted 10-24-2012 06:34 PM 1381 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Swyftfeet

169 posts in 925 days


10-24-2012 06:34 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question drill-driver

So I was ad Woodcraft and I picked up this kit as a impulse buy… that store really does it to me.

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2085013/38541/woodriver-20piece-brad-point-and-forstner-bit-set.aspx

All in all it may not have been my wisest decision since it has 3 overlapping bit diameters (1/4”, 3/8”, 1/2”) so three sizes for the price of 6… I am kinda stumped as to why they would do this.

I understood that fostners were for very cleaner exit cuts on larger diameters and to be used mostly a press so you don’t skip across the work… Are there other times where you would choose to use the fostner over a brad point of the same diameter?

Thanks!

-- Brian


7 replies so far

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Tennessee

1583 posts in 1268 days


#1 posted 10-24-2012 06:38 PM

Main reason for me is the Forstner doesn’t dig in as fast like a brad point. When you hit the flutes on a brad point, it can grab and go down in a hurry, sometimes right through. by hand it can take the drill, on a drill press, if the work is not clamped down, it can rise up right into the brad point. On a Forstner, at least in my experience, you can control the depth of cut much easier and get a cleaner bottom, since the bulk of the bit is flat. I have both of most sizes in my tool inventory, and use them accordingly.

-- Paul, Tennessee, http://www.tsunamiguitars.com

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Cosmicsniper

2199 posts in 1912 days


#2 posted 10-24-2012 07:00 PM

I agree with Paul. I actually don’t like brad points with hand drills for the very reason he says…especially if I need to control the depth of cut. It grabs too fast for me, especially in softer woods (it can tear as much as it cuts). Brad point bits are for smaller, precision holes on a drill press…or at least that’s how I use them. This way, I can precisely center the hole with the brad point.

For hand drilling, I’m old fashioned.

Of course, forstner bits start in bigger sizes and give nice entry/exit holes. I default to these for most everything greater than 1/2” (of course) or when I want some well shaped holes, but they will leave behind some nice burns.

The brad points do cut faster…a lot faster. Sometimes you need this in harder wood when drilling a zillion holes. You wouldn’t use a 1/4” forstner bit for that application. You likely would like regular bits either because aligning that many holes can be a PITA.

-- jay, www.allaboutastro.com

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MrRon

2991 posts in 1997 days


#3 posted 10-24-2012 07:18 PM

Sometimes you need holes that overlap as in a flat oval hole. Only the forstner bit will do that

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Swyftfeet

169 posts in 925 days


#4 posted 10-24-2012 07:30 PM

Thanks guys!

/Rick I was only off by one letter not two! ;)

-- Brian

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Gregn

1642 posts in 1737 days


#5 posted 10-24-2012 10:41 PM

I view the two as different cutting tools. I like the Forstner’s for precision type boring applications and use the Brad point bits for general boring applications as opposed to using twist bits for general boring. I also tend to use the spade style bits for construction type projects.

Its like hand planes, they all preform the same cutting action, but each has its own performance and cutting action to to fit its design.

-- I don't make mistakes, I have great learning lessons, Greg

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jmartel

2818 posts in 904 days


#6 posted 10-25-2012 05:47 PM

If your Forstner is burning the wood, you need to slow the RPM’s down significantly. You should not have a problem with that.

-- End grain is like a belly button. Yes, I know you have one. No, I don't want to see it.

View Jonathan's profile

Jonathan

2605 posts in 1804 days


#7 posted 10-25-2012 06:03 PM

I agree with jmartel: slow both your drill speed down, as well as how quickly/aggressively you’re plunging the bit.

-- Jonathan, Denver, CO "Constructive criticism is welcome and valued as it gives me new perspectives and helps me to advance as a woodworker."

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