Drilling DEEP Dog Holes in Hard Maple

I suspect the ones that quit advancing before the spur broke through just stripped the threads out in the wood surrounding the spur. If so, you should be able to advance the bit with enough pressure.

In the case where the spur broke through, just add a backer board for the spur to bit into.

-- Michael :-{| Diapers and politicians both need to be changed often; and for the same reason.

Well, thanks for the reply but that won’t help a lot. I’ll try pressing harder again, but it didn’t work before. And the ones which are “broken through” are in the middle of the piece, so I can’t put anything there for the spur to bite into

-- Ric, N. Illinois "Design thrice, measure twice, cut once... slap forehead, start over"

This is what I used while drilling 3/4” dog holes in my workbench. I costs $21, but is well worth it. I was drilling Ash (Janka 1320 hardness) and found that I needed to respray at least for every other hole, but if I resprayed for every hole it seems to cut like butter.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=31160&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PLA&gclid=CNqq-ZG7nLMCFSOnPAodpHcAng

ALSO, you should buy a good bit for the job at hand. Again, not cheap, but good. I used a 3/4” COLT Brad Point bit in a hand drill, since I did NOT have a big drill press. I built a bit template to help keep vertical AND correct spacing.

http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/3_4-Colt-TwinLand-Brad-Point-Bit/productinfo/17-34/

PLUS!.... Be sure to use a backing plate so that you don’t get blowout on the underside of the bench. You can see mine on the right side of the image. Everything is clamped securely every time.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

What I would do is buy one of the long electrician style auger bits at Lowe’s. Or you can get really long spade bits as well. I know you are close to having it done, but the $10 for one might make your life significantly easier.

-- Brian T. - Exact science is not an exact science

Did you sharpen the bottom of the Irwin auger or the top? Might have sharpened so the cutting edge is too high off the bottom.

-- "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence Wake Up America!! Please read; http://www.commondreams.org/view/2009/01/26-0

I was just watching a Paul Sellers video and think I figured out the answer to your problem. The screw on the end of auger bits is actually what pulls the bit into the wood. So on the holes where it’s punched through, there’s nothing pulling the big into the wood. Go around and drill from the other side just as the screw punches through. On the other holes, most likely the screw has stripped out and isn’t pulling the bit into the wood. Try using another bit and enlarging that pilot type hole that the screw creates. You’ll likely have to really bear down on the brace to get it to cut off those shoulders, but once the screw catches again, you should be good to go. Hope that helps and I’m right!

Rich;)

-- Rich;) -"Dada make a big mess?" "Yes Dada made a big mess."

Topamax said what I was going to say. If you sharpen the bottom side of your bit, you raise the cutting edge above where your drive screw can engage and it will stop cutting once your drive screw runs out of wood. This is what it sounds like from your description. Unfortunately, there is no fix for this that I am aware of except purchasing a new bit.

Good Luck

-- Mike