Maintance on Grizzly G1023 3hp ph1 motor

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Forum topic by TraveledSome posted 10-24-2012 03:49 AM 2852 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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30 posts in 2217 days

10-24-2012 03:49 AM

Topic tags/keywords: grizzly g1023 motor 3hp single phase ph1 maintenance repair bearing 6203 2rs rs 6203z z 6205z 6205

I have a seperate thread on a 1989-90 right tilt G1023 I purchased via Craig’s and have been restoring over a longer period of time then I care to admit. The project isn’t why it’s taken so long rather the rest of my life that happened around it. Basically between my last post in that thread until last week I have had not time on it. That said, going into this I was just going to “do thi”s, and just going to “do that”.....but you know how it goes, once you make a clean spot, it’s like….hmmm why not do that too?

Also I have reason to beleive this saw either was left open to elements awhile, or simply in a structure that was more or less left open to them. There were dirt dobber nests all through trunions, and and fence rails etc…it’s not a Katrina Saw I don’t think as there’d be worse damage and the motor worked fine when I purchased. I am awaiting my 220 hookup anyday now when friend gets a chance… I guess it still works… :D I am not taking trunions aprt just cleaned and lubed them, and took arbor off to replace bearings, and motor off because of that as well.

So I have replaced the bearings in the arbor….which is good thing as one of them was bone dry and you could hear friction when you turned it. I just used some basic 6203 2RS from Tractor Supply….their cheap, and if there’s better it wouldn’t be much now to put better ones in. However i decided to take a look see at the motor. I have never ever worked on any electric motor bigger then what went into my model train as a kid, or some old radio shack kit. So this was a rather nervous venture, I didn’t want to wreck it and have to pay 300 for a new one from Grizzly. Once I got past my nerves, a few taps with the ball hammer and punch and I got motor casing open, it’s disconnected from my table saw completely on my work bench btw.

Inside I see the fan side has a single shielded 6203z bearing, that is rather dry itself, though made no rubbing noises….before I messed with it at least….in a moment of bizarre “I don’t know why I did that.” behavior I gave it a spray from my PG2000 lube cleaner…..which pretty much disolved remaining grease, it does spin faster…but I got zero confidence in it’s ability to take high rpm no matter what wonder coating PG2000 does. ...and I don’t think I will be trying to use it now…..or even adding grease, as it would still have pg2000 in there. I was going to replace it anyway though.

The pully side has a 6205z bearing I think it is single shielded hard to say as I don’t have a bearing puller and it pretty much will require one to remove as it sits against a disk that appears to be perm apart of shaft (been wanting to buy a puller at harbor frieght anyway) If it is single shielded I am confused as to why as the shield is on side next to motor housing, so I don’t think you could lubricate from outside? I see no advantage for it being single shield if you can’t get to it without dissasembly for maintenance. The 6203s bearing by contrast had the unshielded side against area where plastic fan is, and appears to be made so it can be lubricated from outside motor…..or am I missing something?

Either way I’d like to replace both…..I have questions as I am newbie on this.

One, is there any reason why I could not replace with double shielded bearings? I doubt previous owner ever lubricated them ONCE in the last 20 years (1989 motor) and honestly if I am going to take trouble to open assembly on motor Id just as soon replace bearing then add grease now and then and reassemble. I can see logic of keeping single shielded bearings for maintenance, but I’m not sure with this set up you could ever get lubrication to the 6205z bearing anyway…. and honestly the side with fan had ALOT of dust and grime going in and may be why it’s dry…..I think bearing would have remained in better shape if it had been double shielded….but I don’t know a thing about electric motors….is there a reason why these may NEED to be single shielded? or a better way to lubricate without dissassembly?

Last I’d like to install quality bearings. Heck I’d like to install ceramic bearings if I could find any under 20 dollars (dreaming probably) in general though I want quality bearings that will not need replacing again for another decade without going dry or needing lube…. Any thoughts on make?

Unless someone screams stop don’t do that! And can explain why….I think I would like to replace both with double shielded bearings and not worry about dust and muck entering into the equation.

In a nutshell:
1. What brand, source for bearings?
2. Double shielded okay?

-- "People are eternally trying to walk out of difficulties, instead of trying to work out of them."

6 replies so far

View TraveledSome's profile


30 posts in 2217 days

#1 posted 10-25-2012 01:02 AM

Pictures to help explain what I mean.

Motor info

6205z bearing on arbor pully side

Side view, the plate is up near it is apart of shaft

6203z single shielded bearing on back fan side under switch

unshelded part of the 6203z bearing is up against cast housing, there is a space between it and housing no matter how much you push bearing in, I guessed this might be so one can apply grease? But if your not really doing that would not a double shielded be better as dust and grim from fan DOES somehow get in here. Even though shaft makes it seem impossible. This was the bearing that is near dry…

-- "People are eternally trying to walk out of difficulties, instead of trying to work out of them."

View REO's profile


928 posts in 2073 days

#2 posted 10-25-2012 11:10 AM

the vast majority of motors are not lubeable with respect to the bearings. Off the shelf they may have grease zerks but the bearings are sealed on both sides and the grease path is actually located to grease between the OUTSIDE bearing seal and the case making a grease seal between the motor housing and the shaft. Pumping full of lube often forces the seal back into the bearing and causes premature falure. get a good quality bearing and pop the seal off clean out the existing grease and repack with a high quality synthetic. reinstall the seal and install in the motor. forget about it until it STARTS to make noise (years from now) and do it again.

View dannmarks's profile


490 posts in 581 days

#3 posted 12-06-2017 11:29 AM

I have had my G1023 since 1985. Love this thing. Had to replace the capacitors on the motor this year – after 37 years of work. Never had to replace much of anything else though. Does what it is supposed to do everyday as required. Saw your post as I was looking for some good pictures of my saw and your post came up on Google. I did have to replace the Arbor Bearing the first year I had the saw. I used an over the counter Motion Industry bearing recommended by Grizzly. I have never been in the motor until the capacitors went out one day.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

4986 posts in 2493 days

#4 posted 12-06-2017 11:48 AM

In hobbyist use, almost any bearing is going to last a very long time…but if you’re worried about quality got ot a bearing supplier (like BDI, or Applied Technologies) or an industrial supplier (Motion). Double shielded is fine.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View avsmusic1's profile


258 posts in 684 days

#5 posted 12-06-2017 02:47 PM

The guys over at swear by accurate bearing co and I have had good experience dealing with them

View MrUnix's profile


6715 posts in 2198 days

#6 posted 12-06-2017 05:22 PM

Sealed bearings are fine (and preferred). Give Lynne a call at Accurate Bearing (see above) and she will hook you up. I’d also go ahead and order some bearings for your arbor… those bearings you get at Tractor Supply (at least the one near me) are garbage.


-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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