|Forum topic by Anapolis7||posted 10-24-2012 03:37 AM||1323 views||0 times favorited||6 replies|
10-24-2012 03:37 AM
I am considering making my own chipbreaker and had a few questions for my fellow tool-makers: Is the steel used for the chipbreaker all that critical?
I am a tad behind on posting my finished projects to lumberjocks. My most recent project involved creating a pair of coffin-style smoothing planes—a 50 degree and 55 degree. I am sure many of you will think that I have lost my mind building a 55; however, I tend to use a lot of figured wood or extremely dense exotics, neither of which is terribly fond of lower angles. The 55 is the one that is giving me some trouble. I forgot to mention, but these are wooden planes. The throat opening is adjustable allowing me to close the opening to within a few thousandths of the blade. Both of the planes have Hock irons, the 55 has a 2 3/8”. I don’t need a chipbreaker for chips, the blade angle makes it near impossible to tear out ahead of the cut. However, the blade is flexing in the cut. You can see undulations in the cut and it is giving off that loud chirp/tear sound that planes make when not adjusted properly. I have the wedge seated a lot lower that I would on a Krenov-style and I had hoped that this would prevent this problem, but no luck.
So, can I go to Lowe’s or Home Depot and get some of the junktastic steel they sell to make a chipbreaker? I have a piece of 3/16 Starret O1 tool steel, but I use that for blades and I can’t really see how that level of hardness is needed here, but I have been wrong before.
Thanks for your help!