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Finishing OLD Recycled Redwood

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Forum topic by gfadvm posted 10-23-2012 02:48 AM 877 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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gfadvm

10900 posts in 1348 days


10-23-2012 02:48 AM

I have some redwood 1×12s that came from a really old house torn down in Ks. The problem I’m having is that it soaks up finish like a sponge! Three coats of undiluted Zinsser shellac and NO evidence of any finish on the surface. It just soaks in. Any thoughts other than to just keep laying on more coats? Thanks for looking.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm


13 replies so far

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patron

13034 posts in 1999 days


#1 posted 10-23-2012 02:53 AM

maybe let each coat dry some first
or the wet ones will keep soaking in
deeper and deeper

you need to build a ‘dam’
in the cells
close to the surface first

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

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gfadvm

10900 posts in 1348 days


#2 posted 10-23-2012 03:10 AM

“let each coat dry some first” Shellac dries really fast anyway but on this wood it is dry to touch in 1-2 minutes. Maybe put on 2-3 coats, leave it overnight and then try some more? I’m not married to the shellac if another finish would give me a semi-gloss with less hassle. Maybe some nice thick Spar Urethane? Always appreciate your input David.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

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Greg..the Cajun Box Sculptor

5110 posts in 1966 days


#3 posted 10-23-2012 03:18 AM

How about a sanding sealer….

-- If retiring is having the time to be able to do what you enjoy then I have always been retired.

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rrww

263 posts in 771 days


#4 posted 10-23-2012 03:30 AM

I have used a medium-heavy coat of sanding sealer (and let fully dry) that I sprayed on. I finished with a lacquer semi-gloss top coat. The sanding sealer did the job. I had a whole pile of 1×6 reclaimed redwood. The lacquer by itself soaked in just like its doing to you. Sure does look good once its done!

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Monte Pittman

14228 posts in 996 days


#5 posted 10-23-2012 03:40 AM

I thought of sanding sealer as well.

-- Mother Nature created it, I just assemble it.

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patron

13034 posts in 1999 days


#6 posted 10-23-2012 04:08 AM

when sanding sealers first came out
they were very sensitive
only ones made for lacquer
would work for lacquer
then sealers came out for poly

i am not sure these days
but with all the new products
i think they work for most now

all the hype from chemical manufacturers
would have you believe only THEIR stuff works
(like lacquer thinner bygi3479 should be used with this product)
making more money for them

i got to the store
and buy what i can afford
if it says lacquer thinner
that’s what i use
regardless of who makes it
(i did buy some new paint thiner that is water based
and doesn’t do anything
it won’t even start a fire in my stove) lol

i like the taste of lipstick
whether cheap or expensive

gluckonthisgfadvm

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

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Boxguy

1474 posts in 925 days


#7 posted 10-23-2012 05:41 AM

Andy, I have had some luck with a nice thick coat of Minwax Tung Oil as my first coat or two on dry redwood. It soaks in but does seem to start a process of sealing. I let it dry a day or two between coats. Old redwood does really soak in the finish. If it has that chalky, powdery top layer I’d plane it first.

-- Big Al in IN

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Nate Meadows

1077 posts in 864 days


#8 posted 10-23-2012 02:10 PM

I am a big fan of Shellac for many things. I use Miniwax Sanding Sealer before using Shellac and it always turns out great. Just let the Sanding Sealer dry over night!

Nate

-- "With a little bit of faith, and some imagination, you can build anything!" Nate

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Blackbear

94 posts in 877 days


#9 posted 10-23-2012 02:32 PM

I haven’t finished redwood, but I have had some Mahogany that really soaked up finish. I used some Danish Oil and wet sanded the surface with the oil with 600 grit sandpaper. The result was a fine slurry that pushed into the pores and did a fair job sealing the wood. After a night of drying I then applied another coat with better results.

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gfadvm

10900 posts in 1348 days


#10 posted 10-23-2012 10:25 PM

I thought sanding sealer was shellac (not sure just what it is now). I’ll try some as it was the most recommended solution. In the meantime I found sanding to 600 grit helps a lot (especially on the end grain). Is that sanding sealer compatable with all finishes or just???? Thanks for the suggestions all.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

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AJswoodshop

1057 posts in 934 days


#11 posted 10-23-2012 10:50 PM

I thought of sanding sealer too. Good luck!

-- If I can do it.....so can you! -AJswoodshop

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KarenW

124 posts in 846 days


#12 posted 10-24-2012 09:53 AM

Totally agree with Patron – ”all the hype from chemical manufacturers
would have you believe only THEIR stuff works
(like lacquer thinner bygi3479 should be used with this product)
making more money for them

Whatever you use, sand with at least a 220 grit paper before you put on the next coat. Sanding not only smooths the surface but also helps seal the surface, allowing you to start building up coats rather than having them soak in. If you’ve ever over-sanded an area (trying to remove a scratch or a spot of glue) then tried to stain the piece, the resulting light area where you’ve over-sanded is proof of this.

-- Happiness does not come from doing easy work but from the afterglow of satisfaction that comes after the achievement of a difficult task that demanded our best. --Theodore I. Rubin

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gfadvm

10900 posts in 1348 days


#13 posted 10-25-2012 01:13 AM

Haven’t tried the sanding sealer but sanding the wood to 600 grit and sanding the shellac is working very well. Maybe sanding to that fine a grit is burnishing the wood. Thanks for the input.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

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