PEBFATS or now I am adding breadboard ends...

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Forum topic by Swyftfeet posted 10-23-2012 01:39 AM 1488 views 0 times favorited 3 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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170 posts in 2166 days

10-23-2012 01:39 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question

PEBFATS (Problem exists between floor and table-saw) or user error.

Yesterday I finished my first glue up for the top of my hope chest. I used a self-centering dowel jig about every 9 inches or so over all length of the top was to be 47.75 inches, but I left couple inches due to snipe.

Today, I rough sand everything evenly. I pin nail a rail to the bottom to prevent kick back, trim the first end off, looks great and perfectly square. Test glue joints on the cut-off, and the wood breaks first WOOHOO.

Measure, Measure again, triple check the length one more time. I want a 3/4” overhang. No more no less. Pin nail a rail to the bottom and off I go. Perfect cut. Perfect Square!

Look at the end.

@##$$ Dowels visible. I cut right thru the edge of the damned dowel hole. So I can see them lengthwise. glue pockets at the bottom and everything..

Yep I’m a moron. I’ll upload a pic tomorrow… of the wood, not the moron.

Anywho, looks like I am going to add some breadboard ends. So on a 3/4 thick black walnut board, I figure the tongues should be 1/4” thick. I intend on draw pinning with about a 1/16” to 3/32 offset. I am going to woodcraft to buy a White Side 1” CL 1/4”D up-cut spiral bit (PN#03K33) to mortise the breadboard. I am assuming I can go a little more than 1” deep if needed as long I do several passes, lighter ones at the end…

So here’s the questions:

1. What length should I cut the tongues too? I want enough material that when I peg, I don’t break the end out of tongue.
2. What size dowel?
3. How far from the shoulder should I Drill the hole on the end?
4. Also should I worry about the breadboards resting on the top of the chest carcass? I was thinking if I put some thin rubber pads on the front lip it will keep the weight off the breadboards.

Thanks ahead!

-- Brian

3 replies so far

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170 posts in 2166 days

#1 posted 10-23-2012 01:49 AM

-- Brian

View MNgary's profile


298 posts in 2412 days

#2 posted 10-23-2012 03:10 AM

Swyftfeet, I feel your pain and let me tell you your mistake is one most of us have made – you are not a moron. By the reality you are thinking of how to resolve the problem instead of giving up due to frustration says a whole lot of good about this and your future projects!

Because, for this project, the breadboard end is going to be decorative and coincidentally will help control warpage, I am inclined to focus on the appearance rather than structural necessity. Thus, how wide a bread board edge do you want that will enhance the appearance of your top and will also solve the dilemma? I.e., what will look good given the restraint you need to work with . . .

Because the breadboard edge isn’t to prevent warpage, depth of the tongue is secondary. Although it should be deep enough so that when you peg there will be a half inch or more on both sides of the peg.

Where the pegs are located (relative distance from outside edge of the breadboard) is, to me, a design consideration and should be either one-half or one-third of width of the end. But that is a design consideration for you to make.

To answer your questions, 1) one-half inch or more beyond outer edge of your peg. 2) what will be decorative to your design, but not less than a quarter inch. 3) it’s your design, what do you think will look nice, but not less than a half inch from the shoulder for the inside edge of your peg, and 4) a well installed bread board end can structurally rest either on or off the supporting sides of your case, but will likely look best if it is either outside or one-third inside the carcass.

Just my opinions, I’m certain others have advise/suggestions as well.

-- I dream of a world where a duck can cross the road and no one asks why.

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170 posts in 2166 days

#3 posted 10-30-2012 07:19 PM

Well thanks to the help I got on the forum (search & other insights from youtube). I finished my ends. not before cutting one off though.

/Epic Face Palm.

Had to mortise it out and add a 1/4” piece of wood (floating tenon?) and glued it in there pretty well.

The dowels oranged up a little more than I would like, but I really think they add to the top. These photos were after the Seal a cell, I imagine the Arm-a-seal and some fine sanding will really improve it.

-- Brian

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