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110V or 220V?

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Forum topic by UKCat posted 10-18-2012 03:54 AM 1239 views 1 time favorited 25 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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UKCat

82 posts in 755 days


10-18-2012 03:54 AM

I am getting the rigid 4512 in a couple days and am trying to determine if I should run 220 to it. My shop is only 110, but I can run 220 if the is a big advantage. Is it going to give me more power? I thought it was just less current draw. Thanks for any advice/info.


25 replies so far

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5514 posts in 2064 days


#1 posted 10-18-2012 04:14 AM

I wouldn’t bother with 220v unless you’re having obvious dimming and slow starting issues. Every circuit and every motor is a little different….try your saw on 110v first and see how it does. 220v won’t give you more power, though it might have less voltage loss, so could result in faster startup and faster recovery from bogging.

Be sure to set the saw up well and upgrade the stock blade.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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JesseTutt

811 posts in 799 days


#2 posted 10-18-2012 04:17 AM

110V is fine. I would make sure the wire size is sufficient. This comes from someone who ran 10 Gauge wire from the saw to the 30A (10 guage) wall outlet.

-- Jesse, Saint Louis, Missouri

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UKCat

82 posts in 755 days


#3 posted 10-18-2012 04:35 AM

The outlet that the TS is run from is 12 gauge wire. That should be big enough for 13A isn’t it?

View MedicKen's profile

MedicKen

1599 posts in 2150 days


#4 posted 10-18-2012 06:24 AM

12GA is rated to handle 20A. If the motor draws 13A at 110V you should be ok. You never want to be more than 80% of the breaker rating for full load. It is a 20A breaker, dedicated circuit?

-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their therapist....medic20447@gmail.com

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knotscott

5514 posts in 2064 days


#5 posted 10-18-2012 11:22 AM

To add to my comment last night, if you can run the 220v cheaply doing it yourself, it’s always nice to have on hand for things like running bigger motors in the future, or freeing up 110v outlets for other things. The 13 amp motor shouldn’t have much trouble unless your 110v isn’t up to snuff or if the line is shared by other appliances, but if you ever add a true 2hp motor that draws more amperage, it’ll push the boundaries more. Once 220v is there, then you can experiment pretty easily to see if it helps your R4512….no harm done, and could possibly be some benefit if the 110v line needs help.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Cosmicsniper's profile

Cosmicsniper

2199 posts in 1847 days


#6 posted 10-18-2012 01:18 PM

Like Scott said, you won’t see a power advantage by going to 220v.

But the issue is that we never have a ready-to-go, dedicated 110v available for our tools. Your saw, with 12g wire, will probably be on a 20 amp breaker. If anything else is on that circuit, then you might have issues. In my garage, not only does the main (only) circuit run all the lights and outlets, but it also runs the GFCI outlets in my bathrooms. Whereas my Unisaw is on 220v, my planer is not, so I normally have to unplug stuff just to run it. And even then, in the winter, it is amazing how often my wife and kids turn on a space heater in the bathroom, usually right in the middle of a cut. Regardless, I run my DC off an extension cord going to my front porch. I can’t run it on the same circuit with my other tools.

I will be taking ALL this in consideration when I re-wire my shop…eventually.

So, if you are going to run a new circuit anyway, you might as well make it 220v.

-- jay, www.allaboutastro.com

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Cosmicsniper

2199 posts in 1847 days


#7 posted 10-18-2012 01:31 PM

Oh, and UKCat, it isn’t “less power draw” when using 220v current. Power (total wattage) is the same. It’s just that you are doubling your voltage to the machine while cutting the amperage in half.

For this reason, you can run more machines on a given 220v circuit. Running a TS at 6.5 amps instead of 13 amps on a 30 amp breaker (standard with 220v) provides a lot of overhead for other things. So, with 220v, you won’t have to dedicate a lot of 220v circuits to your tools UNLESS you run a lot of 220v motors simultaneously. That’s not the standard MO for a home shop.

Cost of the wiring for 220v yourself (not with electricians) is typically cheaper because the two legs can be run on thinner gauge wire as compared to 110v.

-- jay, www.allaboutastro.com

View Charles Maxwell's profile

Charles Maxwell

967 posts in 2495 days


#8 posted 10-18-2012 02:14 PM

If you can power with 220 that’s advisable. Look at the start-up current draw for both 110 and 220. That’s key. Your 110 starting current draw will be near 15amps. Your comparable 220 start-up draw will be about 6.5 amps. That says it all for me. The steady state draw will also be lower.

-- Max the "night janitor" at www.hardwoodclocks.com

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

6948 posts in 1602 days


#9 posted 10-18-2012 03:04 PM

Everyone makes good points about the ability to use “smaller” wire sizes when running 240v. That is true, but for the small difference in wire prices consider running 10-3 inside your shop.

Here is what I used from HD. The best part of this is that it is an “armored cable” so you do not need to run conduit. NOTE—This is NOT a burial type cable. Interior only.

AFC Cable Systems 125 ft. 10/3 Gauge BX/AC-90 Cable
Model # 1408N32-00
Internet # 202286692
Store SKU # 282805
$136.00 /EA-Each

http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical-Wire-Electrical-Wiring/h_d1/N-5yc1vZbm6mZ1z0zud2/R-202286692/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051#.UIAPf4ZP_QU

FOR BURIAL USE TO THE SHOP:
I do not know how far you need to run service. That will dictate how large a cable to use. You will need to find out the requirements for the distance you will be installing.

FWIW, running service to my garage (100amp service) I ran #00 twisted wire w/ground overhead. That was overkill on my part, so check locally for what you need to be looking at.

IF #10 is adequate for your service to your free standing shop/garage:

Southwire 250 ft. 10-2 UF-B W/G Cable
Model # 13056755
Internet # 202316282
Store SKU # 269077
$224.00 /EA-Each

It can also be used for outbuildings such as garages and barns. UF-B feeds from a distribution point in an existing building. UF-B has a heat capacity of 90* C and is rated at 600 volts. UL Listed and CSA Certified.

http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical-Wire-Electrical-Wiring-Service-Entrance-Wire/h_d1/N-5yc1vZbm3u/R-202316282/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051#.UIAZvIZP_QU

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

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HillbillyShooter

4765 posts in 980 days


#10 posted 10-18-2012 03:16 PM

My two cents are always use 220v if possible. I’ve heard the explanation but I’m not an electrician; however, Charles Maxwell, above, sums it up as best I can recall. This is one of the few things I always listened to my father about. Dad taught be to hot wire 220v when I was in my teens. Dad had been the mechanic on a “Flying Fortress” during WWII and kept the plane going on over 40 missions out of England—this was one area he really knew what he was talking about.

-- John C. -- "Firearms are second only to the Constitution in importance; they are the peoples' liberty's teeth." George Washington

View UKCat's profile

UKCat

82 posts in 755 days


#11 posted 10-18-2012 03:42 PM

My shop has 50A service on 8ga THHN wire. From the disconnect to outlets are 12 gauge with only one piece of equipment on each outlet and these are on 20A breakers.

View perfect's profile

perfect

4 posts in 777 days


#12 posted 10-18-2012 04:33 PM

I have the same saw and am mulling over the same decision (especially as I’m finishing my workshop and already planning on wiring runs for specific tool uses).

My big concern is that I’ll have both the TS and a DC going at the same time off of the same 20A circuit. I have a JT DC-1100 and am thinking that both devices turned on at the same time will pull too much current for my 12awg/20A circuit.

Wiring a 220V circuit to a 220V receptacle will be easy for me (only about 10 feet of cable needed since the power distribution panel is right nearby).

Could you power both the RS4512 and a Dust Collector on the same 20A circuit safely?

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Cosmicsniper

2199 posts in 1847 days


#13 posted 10-18-2012 04:58 PM

@perfect

Safety isn’t an issue. Feasibility is. No way they’ll run on the same circuit. That’s 13 amps for the saw (more on start up) and probably 14 or 15 amps for the DC (perhaps less, but a dedicated 15A is recommended in the manual). I absolutely cannot run my HF DC with my DeWalt DW735 planer at the same time in a 20A circuit. The moment I push a board through, the breaker trips. Same as with my Ridgid jointer.

-- jay, www.allaboutastro.com

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5514 posts in 2064 days


#14 posted 10-18-2012 06:27 PM

@perfect – Even if that circuit breaker doesn’t trip, the odds of the circuit providing full voltage and amperage without a fair amount of loss is slim, which could in turn shorten the life expectancy of both motors. Since it’s a simple wiring job for you, I’d switch at least one of them to 220v.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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perfect

4 posts in 777 days


#15 posted 10-18-2012 06:27 PM

Well then it looks like a 220V circuit might just be in order for the TS. And I guess now that you mention it..probably a dedicated 20A circuit for the dust collection as well.

Thanks for the advice Cosmicsniper!

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