Holding power of pocket hole joinery

Joshua,

Pocket hole joinery should work just fine. You won’t have a problem with that amount of weight. Use glue and follow this rule: Screwing into solid oak, use fine-thread screws. Screwing into plywood, use course-thread screws.

-- Randy, Tupelo, MS ~ May I become more like the Master Carpenter every day.

Pocket screw joinery is quite strong. I use it in just about every one of my projects, however i do not use glue. Randy is correct . . . fine screws for hardwood and course for softwood.

-- The significant problems we face cannot be solved by the same level of thinking that created them

I second all of the above….would not use anything else..

-- Frank, Little River/Academy, Texas , http://www.allthingsrustix.com

I also use and love pocket screws. There was an article in Wood magazine or American Woodworker (the 2 mags I take) within the last few years that had an article on testing a variety of joints including glued mortise and tenon, dowels, pocket screws and maybe a couple of more types. They did destructive testing (loaded to the point of failure), including sheer forces (like weight on aprons on a table). As best I can remember, pocket screws were right behind mortise and tenon joinery. Very strong.

I read this before I had ever made a mortise/tenon and was immediately sold on pocket screws. I haven’t used a dowel since then, nor have I made a mortise/tenon.

The article is worth finding if you can. I look around and see if I can find it and post here the mag, date and page published.

Jim

-- JimJ - Oakton, VA

Pocket screws can be very strong. I’ve built a few things using them and the most important thing seems to be to make sure to have a very strong positive connection between the pieces you are joining. The more play you get, the more likely the joint will come out. i found copious clamping to to help a lot.

I just built a pull out drawer for underneath our kitchen sink using close to the same plans as you are describing. My sides are 1×6 pine and the bottom of the drawer is 3/4” plywood and it is connected using pocket hole joinery and it holds well over 30lbs of cleaners and other items with no problem.
Almost forgot, I used no glue, just the screws.

-- "You get what you inspect, not what you expect"

If your planning on using edge banding, you might consider using a wider than 3/4 strip of solid lumber glued face grain to the plywood edge to insure against sag. You can even pocket hole it on, screwed in on the shelf bottom. Pocket Holes work great.

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

I use a boat load of pocket hole screws in my work. I don’t however, rely solely on the screws to maintain the joint. I think of the screws as disposable clamps. I really wouldn’t trust an unglued joint.

Ed

-- Come on in, the beer is cold and the wood is dry. www.crookedlittletree.com

Pocket screws are an efficient joint, but if it’s exposed it’s pretty ugly. You should always glue your joints unless you want to take it apart at a later date. You could edge band the plywood and pocket screw the hardwood to the plywood so the seam is on the side not the top. This way the weight rests on the hardwood not on the joint. Then you can do cart wheels on it and it won’t break. Not that it would anyways. Does that make sense?

-- ~ Inspiring those who inspire me ~

Be aware of sag… I think that 3/4 ply will not sag at 32” long. There’s a web site to help you calculate sag (the sagulator).

-- There are three kinds of people... those who can count, and those who can't

I just bought the kit
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5374

Never used it before but it looked like a pretty good idea and if Norm uses it then it must at least be fast and solid.

Now I have to find a few vids on best practices for use.

-- "so much to learn and so little time"..

Thanks for all the info everybody. I won’t hesitate to use pocket hole joinery from now on.

-- Kip Northern Illinois ( If you don't know where your goin any road will take you there) George Harrison

I used pocket hole screws to build a frameless cabinet out of 3/4” birch plywood (including the back) it currently holds a little less than 200 lbs worth of electronics and such. I use screws and glue. I also have a shorter cabinet that is to hold 300 lbs. In both designs I have at least 3 pieces of 3/4” thick vertical supports to distribute the load plus a 3/4” back. I tested each piece before putting the electronics on them with the very scientific method of having myself and friend hop on them. With the 3/4 back them seem exceptionally strong with no sign of racking with a load of over 400 lbs. There is no design that can’t be over designed :).

I find them very strong when spaced 6” to 8” apart as the manual recommends. The manual has lots of good information in it. As long as you either plan to hide the holes or spend the time to lay them out and fill them in an attractive manner they should work great.

-- mhawkins2 - why does my wife keep parking her car in my shop :)?