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should I buy new hand plane blade or keep old one

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Forum topic by robdem posted 679 days ago 1342 views 0 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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robdem

320 posts in 1232 days


679 days ago

Just bought a number 7 bailey hand plane started to clean it up tonight . Started with the blade removed surface rust on iron and noticed that the iron had a date on it of 1992 stanley iron question is should I buy a new iron or continue to clean this one up . Also is using a bench grinder with a wire wheel to much for cleaning up rusted plane parts . Thanks for help Rob


16 replies so far

View Tedstor's profile

Tedstor

1369 posts in 1258 days


#1 posted 679 days ago

Try the current blade and see if it works?
If your not happy with it, replace it with a hock/pinnacle.

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

15684 posts in 2844 days


#2 posted 679 days ago

Are you sure the patent date wasn’t something like AP’L 19,92? That is an 1892 patent date.

No need to buy a new blade if that one still has enough length to put an edge on and you can clean it up.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View Arminius's profile

Arminius

304 posts in 2429 days


#3 posted 679 days ago

Are you sure that was 1992 rather than either 1892 or 19 92?

You will probably be happier with a modern iron, better material available now, but that doesn’t mean the old one is garbage.

Wire wheel is probably a little harsh for some of the parts. I prefer Evapo-rust for planes, and then a fine wire wheel where I cannot use a sand paper to restore the lustre of the metal.

View ChuckC's profile

ChuckC

683 posts in 1561 days


#4 posted 679 days ago

The easiest way to remove the rust is EvapoRust. It’s non toxic and works great. I wouldn’t use a grinder.

When you take it out shoot it with wd40 and rub with steel wool. It won’t take much effort to make it look great. I’ve done electrolysis too but prefer EvapoRust. Any auto store has it.

View thedude50's profile

thedude50

3511 posts in 1103 days


#5 posted 679 days ago

trend parts cleaner is faster than evaporust and helps prevent further rust spray it on and rub it gently with a scotch brite pad the rust desolves and the patina is there for good I restore over 50 planes a year and i use this if the rust isnt to bad other wist I sand blast and re japan here is a photo of one of my restores

-- when I am not on Lumberjocks I am on @ http://thisoldworkshop.com where we allow free speech

View fumehappy's profile

fumehappy

110 posts in 878 days


#6 posted 679 days ago

dude,
do you have a link for that cleaner?
Thanks!

View shampeon's profile

shampeon

1346 posts in 809 days


#7 posted 679 days ago

Check for pitting and length before replacing it.

-- ian | "You can't stop what's coming. It ain't all waiting on you. That's vanity."

View thedude50's profile

thedude50

3511 posts in 1103 days


#8 posted 679 days ago

you can get it at rockler or woodcraft I dont have a link but it is easy to find took me a minute to find

-- when I am not on Lumberjocks I am on @ http://thisoldworkshop.com where we allow free speech

View Loren's profile

Loren

7390 posts in 2273 days


#9 posted 679 days ago

Aftermarket high carbon blades like Hock will hold a better edge, but rust
can be an issue with high carbon blades in some areas. They also
take an effort to sharpen, being so hard and tough.

The stock blades sold on newer Stanley and Record planes, et al,
have tended to be Chrome Vanadium, which is easy to sharpen
and resists rust (great for occasional users) but doesn’t hold
a keen edge all that long.

I never throw away a plane iron personally so I always have
a few spares kicking around. I never bother making anything
shiny that doesn’t need to be to do its function, so all my old
plane irons are brown except the edges and about 3” of back.

An iron that is badly pitted on the back is not easy to rescue
and probably not worth the effort.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View Mosquito's profile

Mosquito

4594 posts in 918 days


#10 posted 679 days ago

In all reality, as long as there’s no pitting on the back up by the cutting edge, and there is at least 1/2” of cutter left (before the groove/hole) then you’re probably fine to use it. No matter what you do, you’ll have to be able to sharpen it, so if you’re not well versed in sharpening already, it wouldn’t hurt to have something easier to sharpen.

I have quite a few stock blades, and one Hock. I can’t really tell much if any difference between stock and the hock blade. If the original blade wasn’t pitted beyond rescue by the cutting edge, I wouldn’t have purchased the hock. Both leave the wood glass smooth, and that’s what counts :-)

-- Mos - Twin Cities, MN -- Stanley #45 Evangelist - www.youtube.com/MosquitoMods

View sikrap's profile

sikrap

1000 posts in 1985 days


#11 posted 678 days ago

Dude, are you referring to Trend Tool & Bit Cleaner? I’ve checked Rockler and Woodcraft both and can’t find a “Trend Parts Cleaner”. I do a lot of planes myself and I usually just use ScotchBrite pads, WD-40 and elbow grease. If this will save me time, I want to get some. Thanks!!

-- Dave, Colonie, NY

View Fishinbo's profile

Fishinbo

11216 posts in 801 days


#12 posted 678 days ago

Try it first. It if it doesn’t work, then buy another one.

View Don W's profile

Don W

14829 posts in 1193 days


#13 posted 678 days ago

Here is my 2 cents, but probably only worth a penny.

I always use a wire wheel on my restores. It works great, its quick and it leave a silky gun metal look.

Evapo-rust is great, but i always wire wheel first to help extent the life of the evapo rust. I use the evapo-rust to get were the wire wheel can’t. I’ve never used trend so I have no comment. Electrolysis is another good option.

I’ve restored a lot of planes, and only replaced one iron. Mos put it right, but will add, even if there is some pitting on the back, the ruler trick will take care of it. I never use the ruler trick other wise, but its a life saver (or iron saver) in this case.

Take a look at my blog, you’ll see the wire wheel setup I have. http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com/bench-plane-restore-the-dw-way/

Of course use some common sense. Careful on the corners because a stiff wire wheel will round them if your aggressive and use a soft wheel for brass.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.com

View robdem's profile

robdem

320 posts in 1232 days


#14 posted 675 days ago

Would like to thank everybody for there help kooks like you are right Charlie blades says apl 1992 . Going to pick up some evapo rust and try that . Don what ruler trick are you talking about never heard of this . You have great web site have read lots of your stuff before rerstoring this plane you do nice work.

View Don W's profile

Don W

14829 posts in 1193 days


#15 posted 675 days ago

thanks Rob
ruler trick http://www.finewoodworking.com/pages/w00177.asp

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.com

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