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Bandsaw Drift?

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Forum topic by jaysonic posted 10-11-2012 02:16 AM 1402 views 1 time favorited 36 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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jaysonic

219 posts in 831 days


10-11-2012 02:16 AM

So, I’m hoping to get a little advice from those smarter than I. I’ve purchased the Grizzly G0555LX, which by the way, is a pretty sexy looking machine, especially for the price point. Now, it’s my first time setting up any bandsaw. I’ve done it all exactly the way the manual says, but now that I’ve started resawing (and the piece I was cutting is only 5” thick), the blade is immediately tilting/drifting sideways once I start cutting. Both upper and lower guide bearings and adjusted, to what I think is near perfect.

Any ideas as to what my problem is?

Also, there’s obviously no kerf like on your table saw, so what is there to stop the piece from tightening on the blade after it passes through? I was only resawing a piece that was roughly 26” long. I started to notice the blade burning the wood a little, I had to take it really slow.

Any ideas as to what my problem is?

Thanks to all!


36 replies so far

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JesseTutt

811 posts in 799 days


#1 posted 10-11-2012 02:29 AM

Here is a link a video that shows how I align my Grizzly 17” bandsaw and it resaws perfectly. Also, what blade are you using? The one that comes with a bandsaw is usually not very good. Try a Timberwolf or a Wood Slicer. Also, check the tension, you may not have enough.

-- Jesse, Saint Louis, Missouri

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Alongiron

404 posts in 1381 days


#2 posted 10-11-2012 02:33 AM

Get a 1/2” woodslicer blade….crank it up as tight as possible and your problems will go away. I have the same saw and use only woodslicer blades….worth every penny!

-- Measure twice and cut once.....

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jaysonic

219 posts in 831 days


#3 posted 10-11-2012 03:46 AM

Thanks Jesse, I’ve already seen that vid, but I went and took my whole bandsaw apart now, and re-adjusted it, exactly the way alex says too. It cut pretty straight, overall, with a 2×4, but still a little drift on the 5×5 – definitely better though. I will most definitely look into a better blade though, I see everyone thinks the manufacturers blades stink!

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Loren

7734 posts in 2336 days


#4 posted 10-11-2012 03:49 AM

What’s the clearance on your guides?

Got the gullets just in front of the guides?

Got the back bearings 1/32” back from the back of the blade?

Got your top guides set as close to the top of the work
as possible?

... and your tension may be insufficient.

Burning with band saws is often caused by too slow a feed rate…
or too many tpi for the thickness being cut.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

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jaysonic

219 posts in 831 days


#5 posted 10-11-2012 04:47 AM

Loren, Yes…yes…and yes, and I think no? I just gave it more tension, it has helped a little bit, I think adjusting the thrust bearing closer helped me feed the stock through at a more consistent rate, which definitely helped with the burning, thanks for that.

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Kelby

133 posts in 1099 days


#6 posted 10-11-2012 05:36 AM

Have you adjusted the fence? Some level of drift is not uncommon, and you simply need to adjust the angle of the fence to match. If you need help we can walk you through it.

-- Kelby

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RussellAP

2959 posts in 975 days


#7 posted 10-11-2012 10:58 AM

I’ve found that cutting thick stock is usually just a matter of going slow enough with a tight blade. Timberwolf blades made a huge difference for me.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

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Surfside

3286 posts in 862 days


#8 posted 10-11-2012 02:05 PM

Let’s say you have a nearly perfect set up your new Grizzly, so the drifting problem is now eliminated. But the blade burning the wood a little is another problem that is not under the scope of the band saw’s setup. The problem lies on the blade. What tpi blade are you using? Remember, too many teeth in the cut may cause the gullets to “overload” because there is not enough gullet capacity to hold all the sawdust. It will shorten the blade life because of heat from rubbing, not cutting, will work-harden some materials and dull the blade. Re sawing larger stocks require coarser tooth pitch to increase gullet capacity for sawdust to have more space and not to overload. I use 1/2” Hard Back Carbon Haltbar blade from sawblade.com. No cutting problems and the price is just right. You can also learn from them regarding your problem.

-- "someone has to be wounded for others to be saved, someone has to sacrifice for others to feel happiness, someone has to die so others could live"

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Surfside

3286 posts in 862 days


#9 posted 10-11-2012 02:07 PM

BTW, cutting slower isn’t a good way to cut wood, IMHO. The recommended band speed rate for wood should be from 2000-3000 sfpm. Going slower or faster than the said range may cause other blade problems.

-- "someone has to be wounded for others to be saved, someone has to sacrifice for others to feel happiness, someone has to die so others could live"

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

3497 posts in 2649 days


#10 posted 10-11-2012 03:11 PM

Surfside, not a hijack, but I’ve not heard of the blade brand you mentioned. Details?
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

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Surfside

3286 posts in 862 days


#11 posted 10-11-2012 03:47 PM

Haltbar is the brand name of the blades I got from this site: http://sawblade.com. I got my Hard Back carbon blade for $10 ea. though that price is based on a single purchase. They told me that I can get more discounts if I ordered in volume purchases by 2-4, 5-9, ..etc. blades. You can visit their site for more information. Or call them here: (201)450-9814. BTW, we have been discussing different brands for blades in this thread: http://lumberjocks.com/topics/41668. There are also other brands mentioned there that you might not have heard of, Bill.

This video was shared on Linkedin and it shows how their blades are processed: http://youtu.be/huHXmrHcg4A.

-- "someone has to be wounded for others to be saved, someone has to sacrifice for others to feel happiness, someone has to die so others could live"

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MonteCristo

2097 posts in 877 days


#12 posted 10-11-2012 06:02 PM

I agree with Kelby, check the fence using the standard procedure of fiddling it after cutting into a test piece. The other thing is, if you have a poor or dull blade, it will want to do untoward things. You need a good blade to do good resaws, even 5” ones.

-- Dwight - "Free legal advice available - contact Dewey, Cheetam & Howe""

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horky

82 posts in 1619 days


#13 posted 10-11-2012 06:11 PM

I have found that a good blade, good tension, good guide adjustment/fitting … AND .. a fully and completely centered blade on the upper wheel makes all the difference in the world. The tire on the upper wheel may well have a crown and if so, if the blade is not centered on this crown, the teeth will be angled in or out, causing drift. I check the ‘centering’ with a caliper and get it as dead nuts as I can. Then I resaw all day long. Best of luck.

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Charlie

1048 posts in 974 days


#14 posted 10-11-2012 06:14 PM

Also look at where your blade is tracking on the tires. If the blade is tracking farther away from you (assuming you are standing at the side where the doors open to expose the wheels) then you can induce drift where the far end of the board you’re feeding has to be angled toward the spine of the band saw. If you are tracking CLOSER to you (closer to you than the center of the tires) then you can induce drift in the opposite direction.

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Surfside

3286 posts in 862 days


#15 posted 10-11-2012 06:52 PM

This is another video in properly setting up your saw: http://www.finewoodworking.com/ToolGuide/ToolGuideArticle.aspx?id=34055.

-- "someone has to be wounded for others to be saved, someone has to sacrifice for others to feel happiness, someone has to die so others could live"

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