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runout in my drill press

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Forum topic by Cole Tallerman posted 10-10-2012 02:34 AM 1296 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Cole Tallerman

392 posts in 903 days


10-10-2012 02:34 AM

I think its called runout? Well anyway, my drill press arbor doesn’t spin perfectly straight. I have a huge old craftsman drill press. I realized this after trying to build my jointer and it wasn’t precise enough. So my question is, would it be cheaper to have a machine shop true the arbor? Or get one of those oversized bench-top drill presses from harbor freight for $179 (with 20% coupon). I love my drill press although i find it to have a bit to much vibration and a non tilting table.

One more factor: My craftsman has a 4” quill stroke and the HF only has 3 1/8”

Ideas? thanks!


6 replies so far

View lab7654's profile

lab7654

252 posts in 965 days


#1 posted 10-10-2012 11:36 AM

You might want to go for a new drill press. Those huge benchtop ones these days have plenty of power and lots of capability—mine has a laser, LED, and a variable speed lever (no changing belts) and it only set me back $200. I think you’ll find it just as capable as your craftsman, especially if you build a separate stand for it. And you’ll still have the big one to do specific tasks. If you have a Menard’s in your area, check this one out: http://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/power-tools/drill-presses/12-drill-press/p-1498047.htm I’ve seen it on sale for $180 at times. Good luck.

-- Tristin King -- When in doubt, sand it.

View dhazelton's profile

dhazelton

1237 posts in 1015 days


#2 posted 10-10-2012 01:42 PM

Was the DP ever taken apart and restored? Hard to image the quill shaft itself being bent, maybe the chuck was driven on out of alignment. Even if it’s never been apart I’d at least remove the quill and chuck at take a look before you spend money.

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

3529 posts in 2678 days


#3 posted 10-10-2012 02:14 PM

Cole, there is an exceptionally fine pic story about a C’man DP rebuild on Garagejournal.com.
What is you model? If it is a KingSeely built DP, this is the story ya need to view.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=51384&highlight=craftsman+drill+press........update
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

View Cole Tallerman's profile

Cole Tallerman

392 posts in 903 days


#4 posted 10-10-2012 09:35 PM

Thanks everyone! Bill, unfortunately that not the same one. Thanks though! I think im leaning toward replacing it. What do you think about only a 3 1/8” quill stroke? Also, what goes into truing the arbor? Il try taking the chuck off this weekend. If its not the chuck, i’ll either be looking on craigslist of get this one from harbor freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-16-speed-bench-drill-press-38142.html

or this one: http://www.harborfreight.com/16-speed-floor-drill-press-43378.html

Thanks!

View oldnovice's profile

oldnovice

3845 posts in 2086 days


#5 posted 10-11-2012 04:38 AM

The basic issue with using a drill press as a router is the chuck versus a collet. The chuck cannot support the entire circumference of the bit while a collet can.

If your chuck has too much play it can be replaced. To see how much run out your drill press has, remove the chuck and manually run the taper against a dial indicator follow that with lateral pressure on the taper to check the bearings. The first measurement checks the out of round of the taper. The second checks the bearings. If any of the readings are greater than 0.005” then the taper is out of round and/or the bearings are worn.

If the readings are OK then the chuck may be worn.

I found this out with my drill press which is not as good as the one you have and all I had to was replace the chuck.

-- "I never met a board I didn't like!"

View dhazelton's profile

dhazelton

1237 posts in 1015 days


#6 posted 10-11-2012 01:32 PM

I love vintage but I won’t lie – a crank up table would be nice.

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