Craftsman TS Replacement Motor

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Forum topic by Egor posted 10-09-2012 12:39 AM 1846 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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135 posts in 3945 days

10-09-2012 12:39 AM

I have a Craftsman 10” TS roughly from the early 80’s that has a 1hp motor. I want to replace it with a bigger motor. I found this one would it work?
I also found a motor on fleabay listed as a 1 1/2 hp but the guy says it produces 3hp???? How would that be if the motor is rated at 1 1/2 hp?
Your thoughts and help are very much appreciated


-- Brock, Illinois

8 replies so far

View shampeon's profile


1775 posts in 2178 days

#1 posted 10-09-2012 12:56 AM

Some people, including now Sears, list the HP as peak HP (like when you first start the motor), not the sustained HP. So the fleabay seller is being disingenuous.

But first I have to say, why are you looking to replace the motor? Are you routinely ripping lots of 8/4 padauk or something and the 1 HP motor is bogging? Are you doing a lot of dado cuts through hardwood? If you’re just looking for more power for more power’s sake, you might want to rethink things.

Second, you should absolutely make sure whatever circuit you’re planning on hooking the new motor up to can handle the volts and amps. It does no good to get a 230 volt, 3 HP motor when you’re planning on running it on a 110volt, 15 amp circuit.

Third, that compressor motor you linked to will likely clog up with dust. You want a fully sealed motor.

Fourth, when you factor everything in, you’re doing the equivalent of shoving a 240 liter V8 into a Honda Civic. It’s going to cost more to make everything work than to just buy a saw with a more powerful engine to begin with.

-- ian | "You can't stop what's coming. It ain't all waiting on you. That's vanity."

View Egor's profile


135 posts in 3945 days

#2 posted 10-09-2012 01:03 AM

Thanks for the help shampeon. Absolutely nothing wrong with what I have just was wanting more power. I have the available circuit to handle more but in reality just want more.
For what I do the 1hp is doing fine. Doing dado cuts just means going a little slower….

Thanks again….Brock

-- Brock, Illinois

View knotscott's profile


8008 posts in 3370 days

#3 posted 10-09-2012 01:21 AM

A compressor duty motor isn’t a great choice for a table saw anyway.

Regarding the 1.5hp motor….if it plugs into a standard 120v outlet, it’s not really 3hp. Simply put if it plugs into a standard 120 outlet, it’s less than 2hp. Anything larger is best run on 240v (aka 220v)

Have you tried a good thin kerf blade on your current saw? How’s the blade to fence alignment? Those are big factors in how well a saw cuts.

To clarify for those who might not know, Sears doesn’t rate all their motors with max developed HP….many are now the legit stated power.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Egor's profile


135 posts in 3945 days

#4 posted 10-09-2012 02:51 AM

Thanks knotscott. Blade to fence alignment is very good. Haven’t tired a thin kerf blade but that sounds like it should make a difference for sure. Instead of shellin out bucks on a new motor I will invest in a good thin kerf blade. Thanks

-- Brock, Illinois

View alexdom_89's profile


98 posts in 2291 days

#5 posted 10-09-2012 03:05 AM

Think of a grizzly 1.5 hp motor its a great motor, I bought one to replace my old cman

View toolie's profile


2121 posts in 2623 days

#6 posted 10-09-2012 02:08 PM

+1 on knotscott’s comments. the right blade will enable even a 1 hp motor, especially those older emerson electric built motors, to rip 8/4 hardwood successfully. you’re not going top slice through it like 1/4” plywood, but with an appropriate feed rate, it will do the job.

-- there's a solution to every just have to be willing to find it.

View EEngineer's profile


1102 posts in 3608 days

#7 posted 10-09-2012 03:30 PM

Just a few notes:

There is an excellent discussion about inflated HP ratings of electric motors by Kevin Brady here. This is the real deal and there is no sense in repeating what Kevin has already so succinctly written.

I always question those who claim they cannot get enough cutting power out of a 1HP motor. I also run an old Craftsman table saw with an Emerson 1HP motor. I have powered through a lot of very tough oak, black walnut and cherry, up to 8/4, full-kerf blade, no problems. However, it wasn’t always so.

One of the characteristics of an induction motor is that it tends to draw more current under reduced voltage. This is kind of counter-intuitive, eh? You would think that a drop in voltage would decrease current draw. But in an induction motor, a decrease in the voltage to the motor can cause an increase in current draw. Now, this can lead to a positive feedback situation if there is resistance in the line to the motor. The motor draws more current, which decreases voltage at the motor, which increases current draw, which causes even more voltage drop at the motor, etc, etc.

I found that the power switch (cheap paddle type supplied by Sears with my saw 40 years ago) had enough resistance in it that it caused me problems. Replacing that power switch with a good industrial one rated higher than the current draw from my motor made a world of difference! The lights used to dim on power-up and the motor took almost 5 seconds to get to speed. With the new switch, the lights didn’t flicker at all and the motor came up to speed in ~1/2 second.

I also rewired my garage. When I pulled the old wires, I found that the wiring was actually a little less than even 14 AWG! Not only dangerous, the old wiring had enough voltage drop under load that it caused problems with the saw. Running 10 AWG to the garage was like getting a new saw!

In short, (I know, I know, too late!), make sure your power feed to the saw is good, also. Increasing the motor HP without addressing wiring issues will only make matters worse!

-- "Find out what you cannot do and then go do it!"

View Egor's profile


135 posts in 3945 days

#8 posted 10-11-2012 01:32 AM

EEngineer – Good information. Thanks for sharing. As for the wiring in my shop area I am in the process of adding a sub-panel for my shop area. Once that is in I will be wiring all new outlets for everything.
To your point about the TS switch I will replace that with the factory switch at the same time.

-- Brock, Illinois

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