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| Forum topic by Kv0nT | posted 222 days ago | 506 views | 0 times favorited | 9 replies | ![]() |
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222 days ago |
Topic tags/keywords: oak hand plane white oak quarter sawn smoothing planing bed question I am making a bed out of quarter-sawn white oak with big 1.25×3.75 side and head/foot beams. The flake is pretty radical on parts of the board and I am having difficulty hand planing them to their final smoothness. I’ll list my hand planes here: Veritas 4 1/2 smoother I am at the point where I am using my 4 1/2 which generally works great. However, the wood around really concentrated flake tends to pull up leaving me with voids. I have my plane set to take a very very fine shaving. What can I do to reduce this kind of tear-out? |
9 replies so far
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#1 posted 222 days ago |
kv0nt, if you must stay with hand power, you can try using a toothing plane which does a good job of dealing with radical grain that is hard to smooth. Additionally, have you tried using a cabinet scraper or card scraper? If you are dealing with tearout in a localized area, they might be the better alternative. Good Luck. -- Mike |
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#2 posted 222 days ago |
If you’re down to just sanding then card scraper or a stanley 112 is the best way to go. -- --Rev. Russ in NY-- A posse ad esse |
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#3 posted 222 days ago |
I prefer high angle (55-62+ degree) planes on QSWO, and stuff like tiger and birdseye maple. They handle grain reversals nicely. I touch up with 320 grit under a hard felt block or sharp scraper. You could try adding a 5 degree back bevel to the #4 1/2. For a proof of concept, you could resharpen the bevel 60 1/2 to a 55 degree effective cutting angle and test on scrap. It’s easy to put a bevel up back to the stock bevel, so you don’t have much to lose. -- It's all good, if it's wood... |
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#4 posted 222 days ago |
I went to a #80 on some semi curly maple and it really helped but i dunno if id wanna scrape an entire bed. CPB has the ticket …. higher angle. -- "there aren’t many hand tools as awe-inspiring as the #8 jointer. I mean, it just reeks of cast iron heft and hubris" - Smitty |
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#5 posted 222 days ago |
I don’t really want to put a back bevel on my 4 1/2 so I think I’m going to get a scraping insert for my #5. Other than that, any suggestions for securely shimming up the iron on my 4 1/2 to achieve a higher angle without making it completely useless? |
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#6 posted 222 days ago |
Before you back bevel or shim, try this. Get the iron on the 4 1/2 or the 5 as sharp as you possibly can. Set the cap iron as close to the edge as you can. Look at the edge of the board (90 degrees to the surface you want to plane) for rising grain. Plane uphill. If the grain reverses, you may need to take short strokes in both directions, or approach at an angle. -- Bob Lang, http://readwatchdo.com/ |
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#7 posted 221 days ago |
I’d use one of these, but I’m guessing that isn’t your style. :D -- Art |
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#8 posted 221 days ago |
If you are bent on using hand planes …. I sometimes plane (razor sharp )the boards almost perpendicular to the grain and finish with a hand scraper. -- "Good artists borrow, great artists steal”…..Picasso |
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#9 posted 221 days ago |
I might add, that when tear out occurs, I put a pencil circle around it, thus letting me know that I have to approach that area from a different perspective before so much damage occurs that fixing it is not possible. Sneak up on it so to speak. -- "Good artists borrow, great artists steal”…..Picasso |
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