Forum topic by ChicagoJacket | posted 10-06-2012 04:39 AM | 2188 views | 0 times favorited | 10 replies | ![]() |
![]() |
10-06-2012 04:39 AM |
Hi all, I build furniture out of SPF lumber. The beds I make take about 10 hours from start to finish and at least half of that time is spent sanding the wood. My current method is using a random orbital sander, 80 grit then 120. What I am looking for is a faster method to smooth the boards. Each bed takes about 200 linear bf of 6 inch wide stock to build. Is it worth buying a drum sander or a wide belt sander? Will SPF clog up the belts too much to make it economical and time efficient. Thanks for any help. John |
10 replies so far
#1 posted 10-06-2012 05:10 AM |
Sounds to me like you’re dying to have a drum sander. -- Rick M, http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/ |
#2 posted 10-06-2012 06:24 AM |
John, Why are you starting at 80 grit and is 120 as far as you go? What kind of finish do you use and what are you buying; rough from the mill? Do you use a planer and jointer? Answers to these questions, at least, will help us help you. Post a picture of what you’re doing, too. Steve -- Steve in KY. 44 years so far with my lovely bride. Think I'll keep her. |
#3 posted 10-06-2012 07:15 AM |
SPF = spruce/pine/fir, it’s a generic term for construction lumber… 2×4, 2×6, 2×8, etc. -- Rick M, http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/ |
#4 posted 10-06-2012 09:09 AM |
when i normally sand something i have five grits to go through, 60, 80, 120, 220, 320. -- Ben L |
#5 posted 10-06-2012 11:24 AM |
There are several options that I see. |
#6 posted 10-06-2012 11:33 AM |
I would buy a drum sander(already own two) start with 100(80 if rough) and go to 180. Over that seems like overkill for spruce/pine etc. -- Life is good. |
#7 posted 10-06-2012 01:01 PM |
Ok, thanks for all the help. I only sand to 120 grit and my only finish is Minwax stain, no clear coat after that. My concern with a drum sander is do the abrasive strips get gummed up easily with SPF? I will probably be sanding 150-200 8’ 2×6’s each month. The beds are some what rustic looking, so I am not looking for smooth as glass. I’ll get some pics up Monday….getting new home Internet tomorrow. I buy the SPF right off the truck just like framing crew would do if they were building a house. I can order the stock pre sanded from my supplier for about 4 bucks more per 8’ board. I am trying to determine if an investment in a drum sander or even a wide belt is worth it due to the costs of replacement abrasives. If I buy a dual drum sander with 80 on the front drum and 120 on the back, about how many linear feet of 2×6 SPF can I sand before I need to change the abrasive on the drum? I currently use a 5 inch Bosch ros with each grit and it takes me about 5 hours to sand 1 bed. Thanks for all your help! |
#8 posted 10-06-2012 01:40 PM |
A normal drum sander pinches the wood between the conveyer belt and the sanding drum. An alternative is the V-Drum sander from Stockroom Supply . They claim that their version will not clog the sandpaper. I own both the Proformax 16-32 and the 30” V-Drum sanders. I find that the sandpaper on the Proformax will clog with dust and can start to burn the wood. The V-Drum sander is not as aggressive but the paper does not clog. -- Jesse, Saint Louis, Missouri |
#9 posted 10-06-2012 03:19 PM |
Noting that you only need a 120 grit finish, I have a few thoughts. First, are you using open-coat paper for the 80 grit – it will not clog as fast as a closed-coat paper? Also, stearate-coated or non-coated? And, of coarse, hopefully not garnet. Second, for dimension lumber (construction grade 2×6’s) I would probably start with 100 grit so I wouldn’t spend as much time sanding out the rougher surface an 80 grit paper leaves behind. Have you considered a hand-held belt sander for the coarser paper and then switching to a ROS for the finish (120 grit) sanding. Finally, if only sanding to 120 grit, I ponder if a planer might be a less expensive alternative than a belt sander. Or even, quite frankly, if there would be a need for you to do sanding on planed boards unless the sanding would be needed to create the rustic look. But, of coarse, there is a great pride of ownership for having a drum sander in one’s shop and they do their job very, very well. -- I dream of a world where a duck can cross the road and no one asks why. |
#10 posted 10-07-2012 02:50 AM |
I agree that a planer might be your best option and eliminate the need for sanding. Grits finer than 120 on a drum sander do tend to load up when sanding high moisture pine/fir/cedar. Taking very light passes on the drum sander does help. -- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm |
Have your say...
You must be signed in to reply.
|
Forum | Topics |
---|---|
Woodworking Skill Share
|
12026 |
Woodturning
|
2104 |
Woodcarving
|
431 |
Scrollsawing
|
340 |
Joinery
|
1369 |
Finishing
|
4900 |
Designing Woodworking Projects
|
6691 |
Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories
|
28039 |
CNC Woodworking
|
211 |
Hand Tools
|
5404 |
Jigs & Fixtures
|
1417 |
Wood & Lumber
|
6224 |
Safety in the Woodworking Shop
|
1387 |
Focus on the Workspace
|
2153 |
Sweating for Bucks Through Woodworking
|
1185 |
Woodworking Trade & Swap
|
4753 |
LumberJocks.com Site Feedback
|
2200 |
Coffee Lounge
|
8842 |