Water based polyuretane on top of oil based stain

I would use general finishes Endurovar on kitchen cabinets. I’m not sure you would need to thin it, but you should contact GF and let them know what y ou would be spraying it with and get recommendations.

-- http://www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

Joe, this thing is crazy expensive, three times the price of rust-oleum which has very good reviews.

-- Bert

Kitchen cabinets is not something I would want to skimp on for finishes. I know for a fact the enduro comes out amazing and will hold up well to cleaning/scrubbing grease splatters off over the years. Maybe try the rustoleum on some scraps or samples that are stained the same and see how it looks.

-- http://www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

After the oil based stain, I would coat everything with some dewaxed shellac, before the poly top coat. Don’t skimp on cost, you get what you pay for.

-- Sam Hamory - The project is never finished until its "finished"!

.... unless you use the enduro. It is self sealing and recommends you DO NOT use any kind of seal coat barrier

-- http://www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

I read something about the enduro, on their information sheet, that I do not like , as an oil based poly does, it turns yellow/orange with age.
I prefer water based poly because they stay clear.This one defeat this purpose.

-- Bert

That is true Bert, and I agree it is not for everyone. I happen to really like the “old world” finish, when everything was sealed with amber shellac. I like clear finishes sometimes, but they can also look a little to “industrial” or “Ikea”. That is only my opinion. My home is full of very detailed woodwork from the turn of the century. When I chose to restore the finish, I wanted something to mirror the slightly amber hue of the original finish.

-- http://www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

Joe, I do not find any information about coverage, how much a quart or a gallon covers? Do you know?

-- Bert

It’s really tough to say because it depends on your mode of application, and how efficient you are with application. I mostly brushed it because I did not want to remove the baseboards and a lot of the built in case work.

-- http://www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

I am looking at General Finishes High Performance Top Coats GF-HPTC and I think that I would like it better.
From General Finish: About 500-600 Sq ft. per gallon

-- Bert

To answer the original question, I have three furniture pieces I have built over the past year that have a satin water-based poly top coat. One was stained with Minwax oil based stain, the other two have Watco danish oil finish. The poly I used said to wait three days before going over an oil based stain, but I waited a week just to be safe.

I sprayed the poly, and I did not thin it or use a seal coat (neither of which were recommended by the information sheet), and as far as I can tell so far there are no issues with adhesion.

The poly was Sherwin-William Wood Classics. I can’t say whether this or any other water based finish would hold up to kitchen cabinets. The oldest of my pieces is about ten months, and gets daily use by our front door, and it still looks as good as when I took it out of the shop.

http://www.generalfinishes.com/sites/default/files/Tech-Data-Enduro-VAR-Urethane-Varnish-021510.pdf

General Finish recommends to not thin and to not seal.

Thank you yall for your help

-- Bert