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Forum topic by RussellAP posted 563 days ago 869 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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RussellAP

2895 posts in 789 days


563 days ago

These are a few pieces I made the last couple of days. It’s red oad and walnut layered and glued in a mold. The mold is simply a piece of old 1×12 with holes cut for stays, (the pieces that keep the wood in shape while drying).

If you know of a good jig I could make to get uniform 1/8 or less strips, please link it.

As you can see, I didn’t have very square pieces to begin with. I’ve since squared my lumber and adjusted my TS fence to cut straight. The next one in the mold is much better, but I expect that it will become perfect as soon as I can figure out how to cut those strips at the same thickness.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.


8 replies so far

View Gary's profile

Gary

6065 posts in 1935 days


#1 posted 563 days ago

There are several jigs on LJ’s for cutting thin strips. One was posted just in the past few days. You should have no problem finding it or some of the others. Easy to make and works every time

-- Gary, DeKalb Texas only 4 miles from the mill

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tenontim

2131 posts in 2247 days


#2 posted 563 days ago

+1 what Gary said, and I usually run the strips, when I laminate, through either the planer of drum sander, to get uniform thicknesses for the glue up.

-- Tim

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2895 posts in 789 days


#3 posted 563 days ago

Tenontim, I have a $600 planer that I never use. I use the jointer to get a straight side after I make sure the board is square. It would be easier to create a jig that would give me uniform cuts.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View Jacob's profile

Jacob

85 posts in 1144 days


#4 posted 563 days ago

Russell, why dont you use your planer? The tablesaw will give you uniform cuts but its so much waste!

I would recommend veneers for bent lamination (or bending ply in the middle and veneer on the outside) because the thinner wood moves very little and create a more stable lamination.

however if you are cutting your own strips you really oughta do a bandsaw then thickness planer/sander operation to limit waste. If your cutting strips your losing a 1/8th of material for every strip!

another plus, veneers and bending ply dont require training for the gentle curves your are experimenting with in this post.

-- -Jacob Turetsky, Industrial Designer

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RussellAP

2895 posts in 789 days


#5 posted 563 days ago

Jacob, I’ve tried the BS but I end up with just as much waste because after each cut the board has to go to the jointer again so the next cut will be straight. I should really have a BS with a fence, but I don’t. I’m going to use some MDF to increase the table size and I could use clamps and a straight board for a fence I guess, but it takes so long and the waste improvement isn’t all that much compared to the TS.
I did buy a Frued thin kerf blade today, so that will help.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View oluf's profile

oluf

254 posts in 1541 days


#6 posted 562 days ago

I just typed in ( thin strip cutting jig ) at the top of this page in the search box and got 10 hits

-- Nils, So. Central MI. Wood is honest.Take the effort to understand what it has to tell you before you try to change it.

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2895 posts in 789 days


#7 posted 562 days ago

Thanks Oluf. I found one that is very simple.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View Dan Lyke's profile

Dan Lyke

1455 posts in 2627 days


#8 posted 562 days ago

I use a Festool circular saw on a rail with this rip jig to create thin strips like the ones you show. A lot of waste in the saw kerf when cutting strips that thin, though. I’d rather do this on a bandsaw.

-- Dan Lyke, Petaluma California, http://www.flutterby.net/User:DanLyke

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