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Door Hardware Help needed

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Forum topic by ~Julie~ posted 663 days ago 731 views 0 times favorited 25 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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~Julie~

572 posts in 1637 days


663 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: question

I am making two sets of doors for the inside of my shop. They meet in the middle without any center frame or support. Each set will have one door that is normally fixed with a dead bolt at the top, with the other door beside it used more regularly. The doors are about 7/8” thick.

What type of hardware do you recommend for where the doors meet?
The only thing I can think of is a roller ball type such as this:

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Julie

-- ~Julie~ followyourheartwoodworking.blogspot.ca


25 replies so far

View teejk's profile

teejk

1207 posts in 1287 days


#1 posted 663 days ago

if you use self-closing hinges you might not need anything at all (the spring tension is pretty good at holding them closed).

View Jamie Speirs's profile

Jamie Speirs

4096 posts in 1459 days


#2 posted 663 days ago

If you use a gate spring you wont need a catch

jamie

-- Who is the happiest of men? He who values the merits of others, and in their pleasure takes joy, even as though 'twere his own. --Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

View 404 - Not Found's profile

404 - Not Found

2544 posts in 1572 days


#3 posted 663 days ago

Magnetic catches are a doddle to fix, and come in chrome, nickel, brass, brown or white plastic finishes. I’d normally use a sprung hinge so just a stop like a plastic shelf stud would do it as well.

View ~Julie~'s profile

~Julie~

572 posts in 1637 days


#4 posted 663 days ago

I was going to use regular hinges. Spring hinges I see at LV are $60 per pair! I’d need either 4 or 6 pair.
Is this what you are referring to?

-- ~Julie~ followyourheartwoodworking.blogspot.ca

View dhazelton's profile

dhazelton

1156 posts in 899 days


#5 posted 663 days ago

That’s a cast brass spring, explains the price (well, still highway robbery for brass). You can get Stanley brand stamped spring hinges but if you are making solid doors as opposed to using hollow core I don’t know how those would hold up as they are meant for lighter screen doors. You could look around for some antique or repro surface mount sets or use the gate spring idea, not really pretty though. You could also look at storm door closers that have that piston in them, then it would close without slamming.

View ~Julie~'s profile

~Julie~

572 posts in 1637 days


#6 posted 663 days ago

My doors are pine, I will weigh them and see. I prefer regular hinges and just something between the doors like a magnet or ball catch, actually.

-- ~Julie~ followyourheartwoodworking.blogspot.ca

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

3273 posts in 1416 days


#7 posted 663 days ago

A ball catch is fine. A standard lockset is often used when the door is 1-3/4” thick. Since your doors are 7/8” the standard lockset may not work.

Good luck

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View 404 - Not Found's profile

404 - Not Found

2544 posts in 1572 days


#8 posted 663 days ago

I wouldn’t use the $60pr hinges for shop cabinets unless I was fabulously wealthy. I was thinking more along the lines of a euro cup style hinge (the small cup ones) – however, your stiles look to narrow for that.

View MrRon's profile

MrRon

2724 posts in 1846 days


#9 posted 663 days ago

Julie, I think your choice of the roller ball catch is the best. Spring hinges will keep the door closed, but what if you want the door to stay open?

View ~Julie~'s profile

~Julie~

572 posts in 1637 days


#10 posted 663 days ago

These are full height doors, I will be blogging about them soon.
Yes MrRon I think that’s the best choice, I was just wondering if there was anything else out there. I haven’t made doors before, just cabinet doors, so I’m not so knowledgeable about the hardware available.
I wonder how close both doors have to meet, I think they are going to have to be quite close together for the catches to engage. We’ll see how well they fit, might have to plane the inside (meeting) stiles a little. It’s been a fun build, hope you all read it at my blog here, hopefully next week.

-- ~Julie~ followyourheartwoodworking.blogspot.ca

View chrisstef's profile

chrisstef

10429 posts in 1609 days


#11 posted 663 days ago

I use those little ball catches on the tops of a pair of french doors at my house and they need to be pretty close to the upper framing to catch and get a good hold. I was thinking about using a vertical rod that would sit in a recessed hole in the floor to lock them in place.

-- "there aren’t many hand tools as awe-inspiring as the #8 jointer. I mean, it just reeks of cast iron heft and hubris" - Smitty

View MonteCristo's profile

MonteCristo

2094 posts in 791 days


#12 posted 663 days ago

7/8” seems pretty thin for a door. I am thinking they won’t be frame and panel at that thickness – if so they may want to move (bow ?) with humidity swings. I would pin the fixed door top and bottom . That will help with bowing and will make it a lot more rigid. Your floor is likely concrete but a good hammer drill will do the job. If you want decent hinges at a reasonable price I think outdoor “garden” hinges are they way to go.

-- Dwight - "Free legal advice available - contact Dewey, Cheetam & Howe""

View teejk's profile

teejk

1207 posts in 1287 days


#13 posted 663 days ago

stiles would be too small to handle the euro cup (I pay 93 cents each for 6 way adjustables! but they need a min of 1 1/2” stiles on the standard sizes although I guess Blum now sells a “mini”). so back to standard…I think I’d opt for the magnets…not nearly as fussy to install and really nothing to ever wear out.

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

3350 posts in 2563 days


#14 posted 663 days ago

Not gonna put an astrigal molding in the center?
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

View ~Julie~'s profile

~Julie~

572 posts in 1637 days


#15 posted 663 days ago

I am hoping that they won’t bow. They are 7/8” because that was as thick as I could get out of my pine after planing. They are frame and panel and have haunched mortise and tenons.

I prefer not to drill into the concrete (heated) floor.

teejk – what type of magnets would you use, is there something sold with magnets in a frame/holder that is attached to the door, or do I just set magnets into a drilled hole? Some type of steel plating on the mating side? Thanks for any explanation you can provide

-- ~Julie~ followyourheartwoodworking.blogspot.ca

showing 1 through 15 of 25 replies

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