I’ve been working on tuning up my DJ-20 jointer that I just got a few days and after getting the knives set and going though one round of making the tables co planar and everything, I finally ran my first board through, which was a junk piece of 4×4 about 36” long. After checking it, it’s leaving the board concave in the middle with about an .011” – .012” dip in the middle. I first though the knives were set to high so I did it again, reset all of them, and tried it again. Seemed to get slightly better, but still about the same. I set the tables with the only straight edge I have which is the veritas 36” aluminum straight edge. I checked the tables again and as far out as the straight edge will go, it seems they are co planar, although they might be off slightly on the far ends, but the straight edge won’t reach? Any suggestions? I thought maybe my technique but with it being a 4×4, I doubt there would be much deflection in the middle. Any other thoughts?
Sounds like you may be applying too much pressure to the board as it passes over the knives. It should onlu take enough to hold the board down to the table, let the machine do the work, not you.
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i adjust by running two boards together on edge and mating those two edges if outfeed to low the ends will touch but middle don’t
if out feed to high the middles touch but not the ends
i don’t have any gauges or ever used one just different cab shops i’ve worked in taught me quick ways to adjust tools
like fence parallel to table saw blade if the board throws sawdust from the fence side the back of the fence is to loose if it throws sawdust from the saw side the back of the fence is to tight
when it quits throwing sawdust i just go back to work
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I tried a few times changing my technique and was continually getting the exact same results, so then I raised the outgrew table ever so slightly and got to within .004” over 36”. I may play one more time, but if not, I think I can live with the thickness of a sheet of paper over a long span. Plus I have the Byrd on its way, so I doubt it’ll be a problem after that! Thank god!
Try using a feeler gauge and a little longer straightedge. I shoot for within .002” of coplaner. Then try another board. I have ran into a couple boards that were so uneven or twisted, that no jointer could fix them.
-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush
I ordered a lee valley 50” straight edge even thought I have the 36” already, but I’m going to check the tables one more time. But right now, the wood is coming through slightly concave around .003” over a 36” piece. Which I don’t think is too bad. I’d love it to be closer to less than .001” if I can but I may be searching perfection that I can’t find. I’m sure that that could also be cause by the tables not being 100% flat. There’s a .0025” concave area in the middle of the out feed table that is probably the cause of the imperfection. I think it’s livable.
I had problems using a jointer forever. One thing that finally helped me out was using two push blocks to move the wood over the blades. For some reason it helped me distribute the pressure properly. You might try that.
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