Spray gun care?

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Forum topic by bigike posted 10-04-2012 12:15 AM 1645 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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4052 posts in 3287 days

10-04-2012 12:15 AM

Topic tags/keywords: spray gun finish lacquer

Hey all, I’ve been slacking on my woodworking but just jumped back in and I’m at a part I hate I’m shure all those who have a tough time will agree finishing sucks but anyway I had these guns from Grizzly for awhile now so I tried them with brushing laq. thinned with laq. thinner from Behlen and I got the plastic cups on my gravity feed guns from grizzly. I just wanna know what’s the best way to clean tha guns when finished spraying?

What I did was take some the thinner and put it in the guns and sprayed out then washed with soap n water took gun apart and dried then oiled parts that take oil. By the way if u got a thought time laying down finnish try spray finnish it works great dries fast (5min) well the lacquer I used anyway.

Well if someone anyone can give anything in terms of help please do ASAP
I’m gonna be spraying EM6000 in the near future so I don’t have the cleaning problem as much plus ill save some dough on my finnishes I also want to know if the 6000 comes out as shinny as regular lacquer?

-- Ike, Big Daddies Woodshop,

8 replies so far

View cstrang's profile


1832 posts in 3167 days

#1 posted 10-04-2012 12:25 AM

All I do with mine after im done spraying is clean with lacquer thinner… run some through the gun and then take off the tip, take out the needle and rub down/brush with lacquer thinner, you dont need to get into oiling it every time, thats more of a once a month maintenance with daily use. Also make sure your in a well ventilated area while spraying lacquer, overspray is highly flammable!

-- A hammer dangling from a wall will bang and sound like work when the wind blows the right way.

View cabmaker's profile


1730 posts in 2808 days

#2 posted 10-04-2012 12:36 AM

If I am using lac. which is usually what I spray I spray a bit of lac. thinner through then squirt oil (wd-40 or gun oil), which ever one I pickup first. I squirt into fluid side till it comes out the tip then squirt a bit into the air inlet. I also spray a bit into the cup as well. I do this even if I am using the gun the next day.

I mostly finish with a binks 2001 and have been doing it this way since I bought this gun in 1985. It has been overhauled twice now and has been used more than you could imagine ! Light oil is your friend for long life .

View bigike's profile


4052 posts in 3287 days

#3 posted 10-04-2012 12:48 AM

Yea I got two binks guns one 2001 and a model 7 both are brand new I was thinking on useing my 2001 just cuz it’s smaller but larger smaller than my Campbell hausfeld and my grizzly too but it’s still bigger than a detail gun or the smaller gun that I got from grizzly I wanna hone my skills and use em6000 in those just to break em in then ill try the regular lacquer. Thanks for the info keep it coming.

-- Ike, Big Daddies Woodshop,

View Earlextech's profile


1161 posts in 2689 days

#4 posted 10-04-2012 06:23 PM

I’m going to have to disagree with cabmaker. I would never have wd40 in the finishing dept. I’m surprised he’s been able to do this since ‘85 and doesn’t have any contamination issues. The only thing worse than wd40 is silicone. Gun oil is for nail guns, not spray guns.
A mineral based oil is the only thing that should ever touch your spray gun. Baby oil, mineral oil, vaseline, none of which will ever cause any problems with your finishes.
I will totally agree with cstrang.

-- Sam Hamory - The project is never finished until its "Finished"!

View pintodeluxe's profile


5659 posts in 2812 days

#5 posted 10-04-2012 06:34 PM

Just use the thinner for the finish you use. For lacquer, just use lacquer thinner to clean. I spray 2oz of clean thinner through my gravity feed gun, then disassemble the tip, nozzle, and needle. I soak those parts, as well as the front of the gun body in thinner for an hour. I then reassemble the gun for the next use. Make sure to clean the vent hole in the cap with a pipe cleaner soaked in thinner.
Occasionally I will dab some mineral oil on the needle where it articulates with the trigger assembly.

I cannot stress enough how important it is to unscrew the nozzle set and soak it for a bit. Those aperatures are tiny and can clog over time. The whole process takes only a few minutes, and is well worth it.
Good luck!

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View TheHarr's profile


116 posts in 3538 days

#6 posted 10-04-2012 11:54 PM

See Target Coatings wet site. That’s all you need to know.

-- The wood is good.

View Stephenw's profile


273 posts in 2384 days

#7 posted 10-05-2012 12:17 AM

View OggieOglethorpe's profile


1276 posts in 2109 days

#8 posted 10-05-2012 02:26 AM

Kleen Again Spray Gun Cleaner

You need it… It’s the only thing that touches cured waterbase and polyurethane. It’s reusable, just filter it.

Other than that, no WD-40, Lemon Pledge, Armor All, cheap waxes, etc… is allowed in my shop.

I use the lube in THIS KIT, very sparingly, as in a scant drop at a time. No issues with lacquer or water based finishes.

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