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Forum topic by Charlie posted 10-03-2012 05:42 PM 1015 views 0 times favorited 18 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Charlie

1064 posts in 1035 days


10-03-2012 05:42 PM

Ok, my “how should I move a 14” bandsaw” thread is played out. I have it. I moved it. Now I have some questions.
My original bandsaw is a little 9 inch Delta benchtop. Looks like a toy compared to the 28-203 I just got. Ok, it IS a toy compared to the 28-203.

Now that I have a decent bandsaw, I have questions (naturally).

#1 Why is there a pin in the slot of my table? :) No, seriously, why is that pin there? Just to give me something to move when I’m changing blades? I don’t know what it does, what purpose it serves under normal, running circumstances.

#2 BLADES : yeah I don’t want another thread about what brand. I can read lots of those. BUT, I’m trying to come up with a “shopping list” of blades to start out with. I don’t envision doing a lot of heavy resawing. It’s a 14” bandsaw with a 1hp motor. I know I will do at lease SOME resawing. I’d also like to be able to rip 3/4” hardwoods. I’d like to be able to cut tenons in some stock up to 4” thick. And, finally, I’d like something that can do curves. I’d like to try my hand at bandsaw boxes and toys and stuff like that.
I’m thinking a 1/2” 3TPI for resawing and I have no clue what I’m doing for anything else. It would all be guessing on my part. So any advice here is appreciated. If I could only get 3 blades right now, what should they be?

#3 Anyone with a 28-203, 28-280 or similar if you’ve installed a tire cleaner brush setup, can you post a picture? I don’t have high hopes for the dust port on this 28-203 being real effective and I’d like to keep the tire as debris-free as possible.

Also going to need a mobile base. I can tell that already. Running out of cash though and wondering if there’s anything out there for $50 or less. I’m gonna hurt myself moving this thing around the shop if I don’t get a mobile base under it.

I think that’s it for now. I’m sure I’ll come up with more questions down the road. This is a really clean saw for $260 and I’m pretty excited at the new things it’ll let me do. Or the old things it’ll let me do better. :)


18 replies so far

View toolie's profile

toolie

1774 posts in 1377 days


#1 posted 10-03-2012 06:36 PM

#1 Why is there a pin in the slot of my table? :) No, seriously, why is that pin there? Just to give me something to move when I’m changing blades? I don’t know what it does, what purpose it serves under normal, running circumstances.

it keeps the halves of the table in line. if it weren’t there, the two sides that flank the table slot could sag and become uneven relative to each other.

#2 BLADES : yeah I don’t want another thread about what brand. I can read lots of those. BUT, I’m trying to come up with a “shopping list” of blades to start out with. I don’t envision doing a lot of heavy resawing. It’s a 14” bandsaw with a 1hp motor. I know I will do at lease SOME resawing. I’d also like to be able to rip 3/4” hardwoods. I’d like to be able to cut tenons in some stock up to 4” thick. And, finally, I’d like something that can do curves. I’d like to try my hand at bandsaw boxes and toys and stuff like that.
I’m thinking a 1/2” 3TPI for resawing and I have no clue what I’m doing for anything else. It would all be guessing on my part. So any advice here is appreciated. If I could only get 3 blades right now, what should they be?

i think you’re on target with the resaw blade. i’d suggest almost anything other than timberwolf blades. they are mediocre at best and often times have misaligned blades. there will be plenty of suggestions here, i’m sure. i would contact iturra design. pretty sure i suggested him in your the thread on this BS. just have an idea of what you want to do and he will advise you on what type blade to get and his welds are spot on.

#3 Anyone with a 28-203, 28-280 or similar if you’ve installed a tire cleaner brush setup, can you post a picture? I don’t have high hopes for the dust port on this 28-203 being real effective and I’d like to keep the tire as debris-free as possible.

many 14” users place a 4” DC fitting in the lower wheel housing as well as a DC fitting (usually made up from plastic plumbing fittings) around the lower blade guide assembly. wood magazine had a reader tip on the plumbing fitting dust collection set up a few years back. it reportedly worked quite well. i little research will provide some pretty successful dust collection strategies for your saw.

Also going to need a mobile base. I can tell that already. Running out of cash though and wondering if there’s anything out there for $50 or less. I’m gonna hurt myself moving this thing around the shop if I don’t get a mobile base under it.

i’d look at this:

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2080750/33126/WoodRiver-Universal-Mobile-Base-Hardware-Kit.aspx

with one layer of 3/4” plywood, it should be plenty stable for your 200 lb saw. when i start using my 18” BS more frequently, i’ll toss the htc1000 that was part of an 18” jet BS purchase (which is thankfully no longer part of my shop) and replace it with the linked base.

and good luck with your new saw.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View chrisstef's profile

chrisstef

11465 posts in 1755 days


#2 posted 10-03-2012 06:51 PM

#1) The pin … it honestly beats the crap outta me and it is forever

#2) Id go for a 3/4” 3 TPI blade for resawing, then maybe a couple of 10tpi’s for making curves and the like. There’s some ratio as to the blade width and how tight of a circle or radius you can cut.

#3) ive got the wheel brush attached to the inside of the upper cover. Grizzly model g1099.

-- "there aren’t many hand tools as awe-inspiring as the #8 jointer. I mean, it just reeks of cast iron heft and hubris" - Smitty

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

3585 posts in 2709 days


#3 posted 10-03-2012 07:00 PM

3/4” blades are too much for the tensioning needed for resawing on a 14” saw. 1/2” 3tpi will do ya well.
I use 1/4” 8tpi, 3/8” 6tpi, and 1/2” 3tpi on my Grizz 0555LX.
Does all I need.
Pin is for table alignment as was stated earlier. Don’t leave it off/out.
Wheel brushes (such as they are) should be attached to contact the lower wheel. That’s where the majority of the swarf will collect.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

View Tedstor's profile

Tedstor

1505 posts in 1381 days


#4 posted 10-03-2012 07:01 PM

Toolie already hit most of the high-points, but here are some of my thoughts:

My ridgid has a 2ish” dust port just under the lower guide assembly. It actually does a respectable job all by itself when hooked up to my light-duty shopvac. Simply opening the doors and vacuuming out the machine after each use only takes about 45 seconds if you already have the shopvac handy.

I own 7-8 blades, but only find myself using two.
Carter 1/2” 4tpi (Resaws/Rips well)
Carter 1/4” 6tpi (Good for just about anything except resawing or very tight curves).
Of these two, I use the 1/4” the most. I might pick up a 1/4” blade with a higher TPI for projects that would benefit from a smoother finish.There are a lot of brands to choose from. I choose Carter simply because Amazon sells them, which is convenient for me. I’ve never used another brand that I felt was appreciably better.

Stay away from any bandsaw blade sold at a bigbox. I’ve tried craftsman, bosch, delta, and ridgid. Quality and performance ranged anywhere from mediocre to 100% crap.

Mobile base? I installed some locking, threaded casters directly into the feet of the tool stand/base. Been using it like that for a year now. Works great.

View Loren's profile

Loren

7824 posts in 2396 days


#5 posted 10-03-2012 07:01 PM

A 1/2” blade is most useful for straight cuts, but awkward for
all but the gentlest curves. A 3/8” blade can still cut pretty
straight if the tpi is low.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View Charlie's profile

Charlie

1064 posts in 1035 days


#6 posted 10-03-2012 07:21 PM

I think the blade that’s on there is completely shot. I just sawed a piece of 3/4” maple and made a cut through about 4 inches and both sides of the cut are charred…. not just a little burn like I sometimes see on my table saw in hard maple… these are charred black and quite shiny (like burnished). Equally burned on both sides of the cut.

I spent time today pulling every screw and bolt and putting a little WD40 on them and running them back in. The basement where this was kept was damp. I could feel it. The machine screws coming out of the cast iron all showed a little bit of a rust haze. The motor alignment was off quite a bit. The motor pulley was almost a full inch out of plane with the driven pulley on the saw body. And the belt was so loose you could remove and install without loosening anything. I could ALMOST squeeze it completely together in the middle with no real effort.

It made a huge difference getting those things lined up. I thought the saw was pretty quiet before. Now it’s REAL quiet.

View Wildwood's profile

Wildwood

1242 posts in 883 days


#7 posted 10-03-2012 07:38 PM

Might look into mobile base kit several vendors sell various styles.

http://woodworker.com/fullpres.asp?PARTNUM=138-371&LARGEVIEW=ON

http://www.harborfreight.com/300-lb-capacity-mobile-base-95288.html

Carbon steel bandsaw blades most economical. I like and use Lenox FBCS blades. Do recommend pick up a copy or viedo of the Bandsaw Handbook, at local library or buy new or used copy. Can also find a lot of the same information on line if look.

People have modified that bandsaw cutting hole in opposite side where install blades to accept four inch dust colletor. Check on line for details.

-- Bill

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

6968 posts in 1663 days


#8 posted 10-03-2012 08:45 PM

Most of the above comments answer your concerns. The only change I would make would be to suggest looking for a 1/2” 4TPI (NOT 3TPI). I say this because you state you are only going to do some resawing and you mentioned ripping 3/4” hardwoods. If you go with a 4 TPI blade then you can cut/rip as thin as 3/4” If you go with a 3 TPI your minimum thickness is back up to 1”.

So I suggest a 1/2” 4TPI blade for resawing.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

11514 posts in 1439 days


#9 posted 10-04-2012 02:02 AM

All the above advice is good with a few exceptions (I have had really favorable results with all my Timberwolf blades). The only thing I would add is it is generally accepted that you need a minimum of 3 teeth in the workpiece at one time so the wood thickness can dictate your TPI choice as Mike stated.There is a chart in Mark Dujinski’s bandsaw book that shows the tightest radius you can cut with each blade width.I think Mike has that chart inside the cover of his saw.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Surfside's profile

Surfside

3372 posts in 922 days


#10 posted 10-04-2012 04:36 PM

I guess HM is right on a 1/2” 4tpi blade. That’s is if you want to do all the cutting in the same blade. But you said you can have 3 blades, why not buy one blade mainly for resawing and the other 2 for cutting tight curves? You just need to have 1 blade intended for resawing because you mentioned that you seldom resaw. A 1/2” 3 tpi blade for resawing and 1/4” 6tpi for cutting curves. You might as well have more than 3 blades while spending the same amount and quality cuts if you choose a Haltbar blade. My brand of choice. Works great for me and budget friendly.

-- "someone has to be wounded for others to be saved, someone has to sacrifice for others to feel happiness, someone has to die so others could live"

View dhazelton's profile

dhazelton

1269 posts in 1045 days


#11 posted 10-04-2012 04:54 PM

I’s look to Amazon for a used copy of The Bandsaw Book (I got mine for under five bucks!). It’s a bit dated but it gives you a lot of valuable information on blades and maintenance and tune up, like checking wheels for coplanar and all that good stuff.

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

6968 posts in 1663 days


#12 posted 10-04-2012 05:03 PM

When I upgraded from my “stock” 5/8” 6TPI, I purchased TWO blades:
  • Timberwolf 3/4” 3TPI
  • Timberwolf 1/4” 10TPI

I have never even bothered to put the 1/4” blade on the BS. Thus far, I have not had the need to swap out to that smaller blade. I have had a couple of cuts it may have come in handy, but so few pieces that I decided to rough cut it and spend more time with the sander rather than do the swap.

I do have an old 16” Delta scroll saw that I use as well. I get clean/perfect cuts in 3/4” Soft Maple (Janka ~900) and I get barely controllable cuts in 3/4” Ash (Janka ~1310). A dream additional purchase for me might be a used bench top 9-10” BS for the small stuff. It looks like CL has quite a few listed under $100. That may be a better way to go for the small things. Just an idea…

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View Charlie's profile

Charlie

1064 posts in 1035 days


#13 posted 10-04-2012 05:39 PM

I just ordered a “like new” copy of The Band Saw Handbook by Mark Duginske. Also got The Bandsaw Book by Lonnie Bird for my Kindle Fire (now an Android tablet, but still reads all my Kindle stuff just fine).

Next blade purchase will most likely be the 1/2” 4TPI as suggested, so I can rip 3/4” stock and do some resawing. I’m not sure I’d do much resawing over about 4 inches thick and right now I’m thinking that would be rare. I am keeping in mind that I have a 1hp motor, not a 1.5hp. :)

HorizontalMike, are you saying I should keep my toy Delta 9” (BS1000)? It vibrates like mad. Almost bounces. I don’t think the wheels are round… hehehe.

OH! And one more question…. do you take the tension off the blade when you’re not using the bandsaw? ALL the time you’re not using it? Or would you leave it tensioned for a week if you’re using it daily during the week and then UNtension it if you know you aren’t going to be touching it for a few days?

I ALWAYS relaxed the tension on my little 9” but as the old saying goes, you can put a pig in a party dress but it’s still a pig. The 9” was never a good saw. Not sure it was ever even a “just ok” saw. It’s a plastic encased blade that can cut wood, but rarely straight no matter how well tuned it is.

View Surfside's profile

Surfside

3372 posts in 922 days


#14 posted 10-04-2012 06:19 PM

“Release the tension not in use. Why put stress on the blade if you’re not using it?”. Those are the exact words I got when I asked someone in the band saw industry about de-tensioning. So true!

-- "someone has to be wounded for others to be saved, someone has to sacrifice for others to feel happiness, someone has to die so others could live"

View toolie's profile

toolie

1774 posts in 1377 days


#15 posted 10-04-2012 06:27 PM

keep the 9” and put a 1/4” blade on it for cutting curves. i have one in addition to an 18” and it’s definitely not as smooth as the rikon. but after balancing the wheels, and clamping it to a bench when i use it, it’s smooth enough for curves and non-resaw applications. and since it only cost me $20, it’s worth keeping for those times i don;t want to haul out the larger saw.

regarding blade tension/de-tension, that’s almost like a “what table saw or band saw blade should i buy” question.
there are operators who never detension and others, like me, who detension at the end of every day and every iteration between those two extremes imaginable. if you have a detension lever on the saw, then i feel, why not use it. if you don;t, then detensioning with the tension adjustment wheel is more of a PITA. not sure there is a definitive answer.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

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