Slow-set epoxy?

If you are near a marine supply store, you may be able to find a repair kit with small amounts of epoxy in various set times.

-- Steve - Impatience is Expensive

Whatever you do DONT CHANGE THE RATIO! If you add more resin and less hardener, there is a decent chance it will never harden. I had a buddy who mixed up epoxy in small portions at a time to fill some knots and didn’t mix properly and the epoxy didn’t harden after weeks and finally had to wash it out with solvent. West marine carries West Systems epoxy, but it is expensive, but also well worth it.

One thing to keep in mind is the open time may be say, 2 hours, but the pot time, as in the amount of time it stays good in your cup is closer to 10-15 minutes. Once the epoxy in the cup starts heating up the reaction kinda spirals out of control and cures faster than it is suppose to. One way to combat this is by spreading the epoxy out as you are using it so it wont heat up so fast.

Don’t change the ratio, you may create an epoxy that never sets. Get West System epoxy and use the slow hardener for longer open time. Here is one place where you can get it. It ain’t cheap.

-- Bondo Gaposis

Golf stores often carry slow set epoxy. It’s used to glue the club head to the shaft.

System III slow set, at Woodcraft, is what I attached my bench legs with.
Caution, it won’t set at all if the temperature is too cool.
I was working in my basement, the temp was about 65 degrees and the stuff was not setting up till I put heat on it after waiting a couple of days.

-- Michael :-{| Diapers and politicians both need to be changed often; and for the same reason.

I am superstitious about glue so have everything set up ready to go before applying glue. All about chemical reactions with surfaces, air, temperatures, stuff have very little control over. Not sure there is an epoxy without a 30 minute set time even if takes 24 hours to fully cure.

While most glue charts just a guide actual times can and do vary. I know from experience temperature really affects working curing times for any glue. If hot less, working, curing times cooler longer!

I try working quickly gluing, clamping, and checking for square. Normally exceed clamp time guide times. Guess only item do not use clamps on are pen blanks. If not mistaken hide glue and contact cement have longest open times.

http://www.woodmagazine.com/wood/file.jsp?item=/popups/glue_chart2

-- Bill

If I add a little water to a wood glue like Titebond III, would that give me a little more open time?

-- More tools, fewer machines.

Hi Brett—Franklin makes a wood glue which will give you what you want and it’s in the Titebond family.

Here is a link to the very product.

Franklin is a pretty friendly outfit to work with; if you give them a call you’ll get the straight scoop.

Similarly, calls to West System and or System Three will hook you up with a specific epoxy product for that application.

BTW, diluting regular Titebond is ok up to about 10%. It improves spreadabililty but does not increase open time.

I have not built a roubo bench but it seems to me that it can be glued up in sub assemblies in such a way that you would not have to have an octo-armed assistant to do a one-time glue-o-rama.

Contrary input is welcomed of course.

Kindly,

Lee

-- "...in his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

I have for many years used the West epoxy system that is designed for marine use. They have a wide choice of products but the basic system uses one resin and a choice of hardeners that give different cure times.

What everyone else has said about epoxy: Don’t change the ratio or you’ll end up with epoxy that doesn’t set, buy the good stuff, but I’d also add:

Epoxy is a two-person job: Have one person mixing extremely small batches while the other person applies it. Large batches get hot, which accelerates the set time, which makes everyone nervous, which leads to screw-ups, which…

-- Dan Lyke, Petaluma California, http://www.flutterby.net/User:DanLyke

I had both bad things happen. I mixed too big a batch and it kicked off which flustered me and I mixed the next batch with wrong proportions. It doesn’t harden and takes forever to get it all scraped off.

For that type gluing, you want additives. Neat epoxy will not do well. I really recommend System Three Gel Magic. It is a premix precisely formulated for gluing up rather than laminating. If the budget can handle it, it also has another packaging that is in tubes like caulk than mixes in the tip as you squeeze it out. It can be a lifesaver.

Plan ahead. Get everything laid out. Do a couple dry runs. Make sure everything is worked out. Go to the bathroom first (even if you don’t need to :) ), get the gloves on and go for it.

-- Woodworking shouldn't cost a fortune: http://lowbudgetwoodworker.blogspot.com/

Lee Barker has it right- call the manufacturer. They will know more than a bunch of dusty old woodworkers. West Systems people are good to work with, and they have a wide range of mixes.

-- Dan V. in Indy

Beautiful epoxy paint work. That will be an heirloom.

http://www.epoxy-paint.cn