Small tool gloat new old hand plane

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Forum topic by robdem posted 10-03-2012 12:26 AM 1488 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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380 posts in 2630 days

10-03-2012 12:26 AM

Friend of mine picked up this bailey # 7 hand plane for me couple of weeks ago from a flea market he goes to here on long island. He told me about it said all he new was is was a # 7 jointer plane told him to buy it .Well to my surprise when he gave it to me was to find out it was a bailey # 7 patented dates are march 02 to aug 02 . Best part is plane only cost me 25 dollars .Needs some work mostly surface rust looks like . Thinking about buying a new blade for it . Question what should I use to remove rust was thinking to use mineral spirits and scotch brite pad . Any and all help is appreciated this will be my first hand plane rehab thanks Robert

11 replies so far

View Lifesaver2000's profile


551 posts in 3136 days

#1 posted 10-03-2012 01:07 AM

There are lot of popular ways discussed in various posts around here. On the approximately ten planes I have cleaned up, I have used EvapoRust. It is available at O’Reilly Auto Parts, costs about $22 to $24 for a gallon, and is reusable. I have done everything I’ve done with that one gallon and it still is going strong. Nice thing about it is that you just soak the items anywhere from a few hours to 24 hours depending upon how badly it is rusted. You can’t over do the soak, as the stuff won’t do anything to good metal or to paint.

View Smitty_Cabinetshop's profile


15368 posts in 2642 days

#2 posted 10-03-2012 01:39 AM

Plenty of life in that iron!

-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive --

View shampeon's profile


1775 posts in 2207 days

#3 posted 10-03-2012 01:49 AM

Smitty beat me to it. That iron will likely do just fine. No need to replace it.

Instead of Evaporust, just buy a bag of citric acid for $10 and mix your own concentration. It’s just as safe as Evaporust, and one $10 bag will likely last you a lifetime.

-- ian | "You can't stop what's coming. It ain't all waiting on you. That's vanity."

View Dallas's profile


3599 posts in 2511 days

#4 posted 10-03-2012 02:23 AM

Evaporust and many other rust inhibitors/removers use tannic acid.
Tannic acid is pretty cheap and lasts a long time.
It works and it’s good stuff, but don’t be misled by products like Evaporust. It uses Tannic acid in a weak solution. You can buy pure tannic acid cheaper and use it longer to better effect.

Look on eBay…. It doesn’t take much to do what Evaporust does.

-- Improvise.... Adapt...... Overcome!

View Lifesaver2000's profile


551 posts in 3136 days

#5 posted 10-03-2012 04:02 AM

That is interesting, since the product information for Evaporust states it contains no acids, and the ph is supposed to be neutral. In comparing the MSDS for Evaporust and 1% tannic acid solution I see several differences as well.

View Dallas's profile


3599 posts in 2511 days

#6 posted 10-03-2012 05:35 PM

OK, maybe I’m mistaken, I haven’t checked on it for a long time.

However, I also did a PH test with our pool test kit and Evaporust was definitely not PH neutral.

I’ll rephrase it:

Most rust removers and neutralizers contain tannic acid or a similar acid.
Tannic acid works well and is cheap.

Whatever you choose to do, research before you go blindly into any method.
I researched long ago and chose electrolysis for most rust removal, although I do use Evaporust and other products as an alternative.

Some work better than others for a particular purpose, so keep that in mind.

Good luck!

-- Improvise.... Adapt...... Overcome!

View robdem's profile


380 posts in 2630 days

#7 posted 10-05-2012 12:47 AM

Thank you everybody for the replies wasn’t shure about iron .I have never rehabed a plane before should be a learning expierence going to do lots of research before i start

View sikrap's profile


1121 posts in 3382 days

#8 posted 10-05-2012 06:37 PM

Since you’re only going to be doing this one plane, I would suggest buying a can of WD-40 and a package of green or maroon ScotchBrite pads. Just spray the WD-40 on and start scrubbing. Yes, it will require more elbow grease but it will be faster and probably less expensive. I agree that there appears to be a LOT of like left in the iron. if nothing else, it will be good for practicing your sharpening skills before you buy a Hoch, LV, etc. iron. There are plenty of us around here that rehab [planes, so don’t be bashful about asking questions. Enjoy!!

-- Dave, Colonie, NY

View CharlieM1958's profile


16275 posts in 4242 days

#9 posted 10-05-2012 06:49 PM

What you’ve got there is either a Type 9 ot Type 10, and it was manufactured sometime between 1902 and 1909. Very nice vintage, and a great deal for $25.

Ditto on the blade being fine. As others have said, there are plenty of methods to tackle the rust. The first thing I generally do is spray them liberally with WD40 and hit them with some sandpaper. A wire wheel on a drill press or hand-held drill can also work wonders, as will a flap-wheel sanding attachment.

Oddly enough, I have found that no two planes seem to be exactly alike as far as what works best to clean them up. I usually end up using a combination of methods.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View jlasersmith's profile


45 posts in 2175 days

#10 posted 10-05-2012 08:55 PM

Electrolysis… its super easy to set up. I tried it a few weeks ago on a plane iron. Works really well and it is not difficult. you need a motorcycle or car battery charger, a plastic bucket, a peice of steel(not galvanized or plated) to collect the rust and washing soda( the stuff that raises the ph for my hot tub worked well sodium carbonate).

fill the bucket half way with water add a few tablespoons of soduim carbonate and stir.
take the part that has to be derusted and hook the negative lead from the charger to it and suspend it in the solution so that it does not make contact with your piece of steel. i used wire and a piece of wood over the bucket. next hook your positive lead to the piece of steel that will collect the rust and drop in the bottom of your bucket. now you can plug in the charger. this process works line of sight so you may have to turn or flip the part you are derusting after a couple hours. I let my stuff soak for 2-3 hours then check it. hit it with a wire brush and the rust comes off super easily.
the one thing to be very careful of is this process supposedly creates hydrogen, so absolutely no flames or sparks anywhere near this solution.

sorry about the lack of punctuation. good luck whichever method you choose.

-- I tell you, we are here on Earth to fart around, and don't let anybody tell you different. -Kurt Vonnegut

View WhoMe's profile


1564 posts in 3267 days

#11 posted 10-06-2012 04:54 PM

great deal on that#7. congrats.
i’m on the evaporust side. but if you use it , be mindful that after you clean off the evaporust, dry off the metal pieces quickly as the metal parts have a tendancy to flash rust within minutes. after i dry off my parts, i put a light coat of light oil like camelia, wd40, 3in1, or something until i have time to work further on the restoration.also BE SURE YOU FULLY IMMERSE the metal parts in the evaporust. if you dont, you get a etching line on the metal ar the evaporust to air transition thar is a total pita to remove.

-- I'm not clumsy.. It's just the floor hates me, the tables and chairs are bullies, the wall gets in the way AAANNNDDD table saws BITE my fingers!!!.. - Mike -

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