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Craftsman 113 restoration

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Forum topic by hg1027 posted 699 days ago 1899 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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hg1027

26 posts in 736 days


699 days ago

Hey all

I picked up a craftsman 113.29903 tablesaw a few weeks ago, and I’ve been tidying it up as time allows. I’ve pulled the inner workings out, cleaned them, honed faces, cleaned out all threads, never seize on moving parts, new bearings, etc.

Having put it all back together, I was looking over the sheet metal housing (not sure what to call the bit between the legs and the table, with the degree markings on it, that the handles stick out of) and its pretty badly bent. I thought it was just a little twisted, but it looks like the saw was dropped some time in the last 30-40 years.

Also, the motor mount is in less than perfect shape. This style uses gravity to keep the belt tight, but the track it pivots on is bent, and the piece that slides in to the cast iron of the trunion doesn’t slide smoothly. It appears to have been refabbed by someone with an oxy torch and a stick welder at some point. It works, but it doesn’t maintain tension when lowering the blade, and sometimes sticks when raising, causing the belt to be constantly too tight or too loose.

Sears parts shows both of these parts as unavailable, and I’d really like to see this saw working properly again. So, can anyone tell me what newer saw, with parts still available, would have used this style motor mount, and which would have a sheet metal housing that would fit the table and height/angle adjustment screws? Or am I stuck trying to clean up what I have?


11 replies so far

View toolie's profile

toolie

1744 posts in 1262 days


#1 posted 698 days ago

send me a pic of the part you’re referring to. i have parts left from a refurbishing effort of a 113 c-man>

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View Don W's profile

Don W

14891 posts in 1202 days


#2 posted 698 days ago

and if toolie don’t have it, watch ebay, these parts come up a lot.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.com

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5429 posts in 2010 days


#3 posted 698 days ago

I might have a motor mount plate if it’ll help.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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hg1027

26 posts in 736 days


#4 posted 698 days ago

A few pics:

Photobucket

This is the Base Support according to Sears Parts Direct (not sure about rehosting their pics, it’s part number 37825, or 115 on the 113.29903 page). It looks to me to be home made with a stick welder and an oxy torch. The two pins that go in to the main chunk of iron (cradle? trunion? not sure what to call it) are not straight, so it’s a real pain to adjust in and out for coarse belt tensioning. It could possibly be taken out and beaten in to alignment, but if someone has a spare, I’d be interested.

Photobucket

Back of the saw showing out of square housing. Sears calls this the Base Assembly. This causes the height adjustment shaft to rub on the curved slot on the front when making angle adjustments. It looks like the saw was dropped/hit at some point. I realize this picture, since not dead straight on, shows it poorly, but the verticals (yellow lines) which are supposed to be perpendicular to the top (red line) are in my case both shifted to one side. Again, this could be beaten in to shape, or it could be replaced with plywood and built in to the stand I intend to make. It works well enough I would be able to use the saw to build its own base.

Photobucket

Further evidence of past damage, one of the bolts holding the top to the housing tried to pull through. Would be beaten flat if I go that route. I doubt if anyone has a whole housing near enough to Houston TX to be worth trying to get a new one.

Photobucket

Last, a side shot of the mounted motor. Is there supposed to be any sort of guard around the belt, or the off-side shaft, or the wiring?

Thanks for reading…

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hg1027

26 posts in 736 days


#5 posted 683 days ago

So I used the saw about 3 times, new start capacitor, new freud combi blade, took it apart, straightened the box, cleaned up the mount, went to use it again – and it blew the breaker. Back to the slow rotation, unhappy sounding motor it was before the new capacitor.

So before I put it on CL for next to nothing and buy a new one, any last chance suggestions on repair, or recommend a replacement motor?

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5429 posts in 2010 days


#6 posted 683 days ago

It’s possible that the new cap wasn’t good or that it didn’t have the correct values. For $5-$10, it’s might be worth another try if it’s bad again. If not, you can often pick up a new motor in the $60-$80 range. I’ve actually got one I’d sell, but shipping isn’t going to be too friendly. PM me if interested.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View hhhopks's profile

hhhopks

564 posts in 1011 days


#7 posted 683 days ago

You could get parts on Ebay or you might try another beatup saw on CL and steal the parts.

Can your motor run without the belt?
Can you spin the arbor pulley by hand? You should able to spin it with two fingers.
I would check the arbor bearing if the arbor won’t turn freely.

-- I'll be a woodworker when I grow up. HHHOPKS

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hg1027

26 posts in 736 days


#8 posted 683 days ago

Arbor bearing spins very freely, I replaced the bearings already. Motor will not get up to speed even unloaded. I did the pull string trick when I first had it as part of the diagnosis, but I haven’t this time.

View Craftsman70's profile

Craftsman70

241 posts in 759 days


#9 posted 527 days ago

.

View hg1027's profile

hg1027

26 posts in 736 days


#10 posted 527 days ago

Craftsman70, I got an email:

hg1027, what ever happened with your saw? I ask because just picked one up tonight that I didn’t notice till I got home it had a bent case.

Maybe you sorted it out already, but I can tell you, the case was a relatively easy fix (as compared to the bearings and rusted parts in the arbor). I had already pulled the legs off and had it bolted to a heavy plywood base. I pulled the blade, flipped the saw, removed the adjustment handles, and unbolted the case. I ended up bolting it back down to my workbench, and between a hammer and a crowbar and a 2×4, I had it much straighter in a few minutes.

Also, the motor mount (the stamped sheet metal part) was slightly bent, and the rails weren’t as easy to adjust as I liked. I spent a few more minutes with the hammer, as well as scotchbrite and a file, and got it all working much better.

The saw worked very well after these adjustments, and a rebuilt motor off ebay for $100. I used it for about 3 months, then I got reassigned to Morocco and gave away most of my tools. The local guys here get by with shops that would make most of us cringe, and some of them are making beautiful work.

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Craftsman70

241 posts in 759 days


#11 posted 527 days ago

Thanks HG1027. I originally posted that and then in looking through more posts saw you were out of the country and then tried to delete my post.

I figured out what happened with mine. I got it home and it was dark. I tried cranking the bevel and it was really hard to move. Not realizing how thin the sheet metal was, I cranked harder and that bent in the side of the case. I’m really surprised how thin the metal is. It made me wonder how long it would stay straight after hammering it back into shape. But it gives me hope hearing that your’s turned out alright.
Thanks for the update.

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