Inlaying shapes in solid wood

It sounds like the problem is with your templates. I’m not sure what you are doing wrong, but if they are cut properly to allow for the collar, the inly kit should work perfectly.

Here is a link to some acrylic templates you can buy in different shapes that work very well.

http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/12315

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

The router inlay kit might work well to establish the general profile, then use the appropriate carving tools to refine the pointed parts that aren’t cleared by the router bit. If you are trenching around the knifed line for hand-done recesses, you might have to invest in a carving gouge with a sweep that is tangential to the arc you are trying to dig out. I’m sure my attempt would probably look pooch-chewed too on the first go. Maybe you should practice on some scrap until your technique inproves before moving on to the finished piece. If you have a FWW.com account,
Steve Latta has done some great articles on inlay. There is a great book by Zachary Taylor, Marquetry & Inlay Handbook
that you might find beneficial.

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

Hi Dave;

You might want to check with Karson for the set up he used for the dove inlays he did for Os’s memorial.

Those were very small, intricate and very accurately done. I know he used a very small router base.

I would probably use carving tools, but only because I have mine trained for this type of work.

Lee

-- by Lee A. Jesberger http://www.prowoodworkingtips.com http://www.ezee-feed.com

Ok, Tim Taylor, like Lee said, you’re going to have to train your “HAND TOOLS” to do some of the intricate work. You can’t do it all with power tools. Even the template inlays have to be trimmed up. Try smaller chisels and practice, practice, practice.

-- Tim -- http://tmuli.com

I’ve used the inlay kit for simple shapes, but for anything more detailed, I use a method I learned from watching David Marks. Marc Spagnuolo (aka “The Wood Whisperer”) has an excellent article/pictorial on this process here:
http://thewoodwhisperer.com/inlay-process-pictoral-the-ottoman-tray/

-- Patrick, Chicago, IL www.TenonAndSpline.com

The way I did the lotus blossom here:

was to cut out the inlay pieces on a scroll saw, fine tune the fit with sandpaper and glue them together, then trace the shape onto the bench using an X-acto knife. Then I traced over the line with a pencil so I’d be able to see it. I used a 1/8” spiral downcut bit on my router (freehand) to remove the material. I had my hands on the router base, not the handles, for better control. I tweaked the fit by trimming the recess with the X-acto knife and sanding the edges of the inlay as needed.
-Ben

Lee made mention to the inlay that I made in some solid Sapel. I used 1/4” thick Holly to inlay.

The project was done as a Memorial to a LumberJock who had passed away. I posted 2 blogs and they are linked here. They have pictures of the tool that I used. If you have additional questions send me an e-mail directly and your phone # and I’ll give you a call.

-- Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com

The inlay kit is a great tool but it can’t do it all , inlay takes time an patience to end up with a outstanding finished piece that looks like you took your time and is worthy of praise. as to the correct technique beyond the inlay kit . It will differ depending on the shape size of the inlay also the type of material your using and the size and type of router or dremel bit your using. The other suggestions that include free handing with a router ,carving tools are options. You might consider scoring your outline with a knife after a very light pass with the pattern an inlay kit. Some times it can be the basis like cutting in the correct direction with your router bit. The bottom line is what Tim said is practise practise practise and developing your own approach
Jim

-- heirloomJim

I don’t do inlays often but when I do, I use two techniques.
The first technique I use is for when the edges are concealed and the inlay surface is less than maybe 10” wide, although the edges do look perfectly fine unless you look at them closely. I resaw the inlay surface so I’m left with a 1/4” piece. Then I cut out my inlay pieces and use double stick tape to tape them to the 1/4” piece. I mark it with a marking knife then cut the 1/4” piece out using a scrollsaw or jigsaw. I check for fit and trim. Slightly bevel the cuts in the 1/4” piece for a tight fit. Once you have a tight fit, reglue the 1/4” piece to the rest of the inlay surface and glue in the inlay pieces at the same time. Scrape and sand flush. This all goes pretty quickly.
The second method is using a router and inlay kit. There are two problems you could be running into here. First is if you are going too deep, too fast and the second is chip out. Sneak up on the final edge. Save routing the final edge until last. and leave about 1/8” for last, then when you rout the 1/8”, do it in a few passes. Then use gouges and chisels to get all the corners. Make sure your hand tools are really sharp. Otherwise, you won’t get crisp edges.

Check out Larry Robinson’s site if you want to see some of the most incredible inlays. He has a wealth of experience and his techniques are world class. He wrote the book The Art of Inlay
Here is the link: http://robinsoninlays.com/

-- Oldworld, Fair Oaks, Ca

For something on the small size you’re wanting, I think I’d ditch the inlay kit and go with something like Items H/J here http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=48945&cat=1,41182
either to totally route the recess or following freehand routing in the center then cleaning up the edges with handtools.

-- Use the fence Luke