Question about wood type for endgrain cutting board

  • Advertise with us

« back to Wood & Lumber forum

Forum topic by Sandra posted 09-29-2012 01:09 PM 1900 views 1 time favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Sandra's profile


7207 posts in 2074 days

09-29-2012 01:09 PM

Through the winter, I’d like to try making a few endgrain cutting boards.
This ad was on kijiji and I was thinking about picking u a few pieces to add to the maple I already have for colour.

Any suggestions of which if any I should pick up? (I don’t know what some of them are, or whether they’d be suitable. I plan on doing some reading about them, but would appreciate some input.


black cherry 1, 3.5, 50, 1.2bf@ 6.95 $ 8.45
black cherry 1, 3.5, 48, 1.2bf@ 6.95 $ 8.11
black cherry 1, 3.5, 24, 0.6bf@ 6.95 $ 4.05
birch 0.5, 3.5, 60, 0.7bf@ 3.50 $ 2.55
ash 4 pcs 3, 3, 144, 9.0bf@ 3.75 $ 33.75
hickory 2, 6.5, 27, 2.4bf@ 6.50 $ 15.84
hickory 1, 5, 25, 0.9bf@ 6.50 $ 5.64
teak 1, 7, 79, 3.8bf@ 28.95 $111.18
mahogany 1, 6, 84, 3.5bf@ 7.95 $27.83
purple heart 1, 7.5, 39, 2.0bf@ 7.95 $16.15
purple heart 1, 5.25, 39, 1.4bf@ 7.95 $11.30
sapele(bazilian mahogany) 1, 8, 4,8 2.7bf@ 7.95 $ 21.20
sapele 1.5, 5, 51, 2.7bf@ 7.95 $ 21.12
walnut 1.25, 6, 63.5, 3.3bf@ 6.50 $ 21.50
wedwood 1, 5, 72, 2.5bf@ 7.00 $ 17.50
wedwood 1, 5, 63, 2.2bf@ 7.00 $ 15.31
jatoba 1, 5, 72, 2.5bf@ 7.50 $ 18.75

-- No, I don't want to buy the pink hammer.

10 replies so far

View a1Jim's profile


117091 posts in 3576 days

#1 posted 09-29-2012 03:04 PM

The type of wood you buy will depend on your budget and what you want your boards to look like. If your not sure what you want them to look like I would do a search here on LJs and see what wood combinations you like. Members like Degoose and many others may even list the types of woods they used.

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

View Sandra's profile


7207 posts in 2074 days

#2 posted 09-29-2012 03:06 PM

I’ve seen several done with purple heart that I like, also cherry and mahogany, but haven’t seen any with wedwood or jatoba.

I have about 80$ to spend. I’ll check Degoose’s,


-- No, I don't want to buy the pink hammer.

View mbs's profile


1656 posts in 2939 days

#3 posted 09-29-2012 03:25 PM


I make cutting boards out of scrap wood. As a rule of thumb I try to use woods that are roughly the same hardness. Therefore I wouldn’t mix something like pine with jatoba even though I think it would look nice. Mahogany is pretty soft too.

I made a rocker out of walnut, leopardwood, and ash that I get compliments on. And I made a friend a walnut and maple cutting board that turned out nice. I didn’t make it out of end grain though.

Also be aware that some woods are more toxic than others. Wear a mask when sawing and sanding.

-- Sorry the reply is so long. I didn't have time to write a short reply.

View DocSavage45's profile


8556 posts in 2841 days

#4 posted 09-29-2012 06:35 PM

Look at the material and choose what you like. HD and other box stores put it in plastic and have most common woods.

There is an issue of expansion and contraction and relative workability. Hard woods splinter less and make better dovetails and joints.

A few years ago I asked Charles Neil why he used woods like bublinga vs oak and other more common woods. He said it takes the same amount of labor and craftsmanship, but customers want more exotic woods in the pieces. Look on this site and you will see how many respond to a visually stunning wood material, even though the skill to put it together was the same as the last project. Greg the box Sculpture is a great example of craftsmanshipand different woods in similar boxes.

Check out Charles Niel Woodworkin website, or some of A1Jim’s blogs about Charles.

We amatures want results quickly for our efforts. The masters know the process is more important.

I know this answer is not specific to your question, but it is about our learning to do good work and get good results?

For me, I did what you are doing. Many years ago I purchased a lot of oak and ash and planed to do many things with it. I moved the pile from outdoors to indoors. I now know it will be excellent practice material. When I get past all the pine I have laying around. LOL!

If you have a local woodworkers guild, as we have in minnesota, you might find a mentor for hands on learning.

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

View derosa's profile


1577 posts in 2834 days

#5 posted 09-29-2012 06:53 PM

Slightly more important then the bf is the actual dimensions of the wood you’re buying if you’re just buying small amounts to make board. It is better to have most of the boards roughly the same length and depending on the style the same thickness so that that there is less waste. I tend to use more affordable craigslist wood for the predominant pieces and just expensive exotics for decorative purposes. Boards go through a lot of wood when dimensioning everything for endgrain; base the woods on what looks good to you in context with the style and what will be connected to what. .

-- --Rev. Russ in NY-- A posse ad esse

View Dusty56's profile


11819 posts in 3687 days

#6 posted 09-29-2012 07:07 PM

I heard that Elmer Fudd weally wikes the Wedwood : )

The thing to look for with endgrain is open pores….that’s what you DON’T want to have in wood species for cutting boards.

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

View DIYaholic's profile


19620 posts in 2674 days

#7 posted 09-30-2012 04:13 AM

Not to highjack, but:

Regarding avoiding “open pores” for endgrain CBs; I’ve heard that oak shoud be avoided. What are the other species of wood that should be avoided???

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow! If good things come to those who wait.... Why is procrastination a bad thing?

View Dusty56's profile


11819 posts in 3687 days

#8 posted 09-30-2012 06:06 AM

^^^This is just one type of Ash for example ^^^
If you’re considering what woods to use for endgrain boards , you can go to HobbitHouse and see all of the pretty pictures and information , including Toxicity of certain woods : )

Red Oak…

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

View DLCW's profile


530 posts in 2653 days

#9 posted 10-01-2012 12:54 AM

For wood, check for local cabinet and furniture shops to see if you can purchase their cut-offs. The prices you indicated are REALLY high. For example, out here in WA State, I pay $1.97 per Bd Ft for hickory. I pay $.450 for Pennsylvania cherry. I donate scraps to the local high school woodshop and sell scraps to hobiests for what I pay for the wood. Lots of times, commercial shops just need to get rid of scraps to make room. Chack around.

-- Don, Diamond Lake Custom Woodworks - - "If you make something idiot proof, all they do is make a better idiot"

View Sandra's profile


7207 posts in 2074 days

#10 posted 10-01-2012 01:47 PM

Thanks for all the comments.

I did pick up some of the wood. I’ll post pics once I get my lumber racks done and everything sorted.
I probably paid too much, but I’m learning. A lot of the prices up here are higher than south of the border, so I presume that applies to wood as well. I know it was cheaper than buying at the specialty store here in town, which as far as I know is the only place to buy exotic wood. I like the idea of checking with the furniture shops.


-- No, I don't want to buy the pink hammer.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics