LumberJocks

How to hollow out a box lid??

  • Advertise with us

« back to Woodworking Skill Share forum

Forum topic by StreamDreamer posted 09-28-2012 05:58 PM 2674 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View StreamDreamer's profile

StreamDreamer

19 posts in 894 days


09-28-2012 05:58 PM

Hey everyone. Obviously, new guy here.

I’m really wanting to attempt to make a fly box. I get how to use a template and plunge router to trace out the “hollowed” out portions, but I cannot for the life of me figure out how to hollow out the rest without cutting all the way through the lid or bottom! Been on the web for 4 hours now, and can’t find anything!

HELP PLEASE!

Thanks!


10 replies so far

View Jim Rowe's profile

Jim Rowe

612 posts in 1060 days


#1 posted 09-28-2012 06:03 PM

You need to fix a guide bush to your router that will follow the template you have created. If you gradually increase the depth of cut you will achieve your designed depth and not go through the base of your box.
Jim

-- It always looks better when it's finished!

View StreamDreamer's profile

StreamDreamer

19 posts in 894 days


#2 posted 09-28-2012 06:11 PM

I get that part… I just mean hollowing out the rest of the surface. For example.. if i’m wanting to make a 5” x 3” box.. and i plunge out 1/4” deep, and trace out the square shape inside the lid, the is still a lot of surface left inside the lid that would mash down the flies on the bottom of the box. My question is, how or what kind of tool do I use to get rid of the rest of the center surface?

Hope that makes sense.. like I said, newbie. Don’t know sh** :)

View rance's profile

rance

4147 posts in 1908 days


#3 posted 09-28-2012 06:15 PM

Start in the middle and go round(in a spiral-ish fashion) and round till you get to the edge of the template. This way you have one large pocket, rather than a moat. Am I understanding your question?

-- Backer boards, stop blocks, build oversized, and never buy a hand plane--

View Monte Pittman's profile

Monte Pittman

15450 posts in 1085 days


#4 posted 09-28-2012 06:20 PM

Rance I believe is correct.

-- Mother Nature created it, I just assemble it.

View Roger Clark aka Rex's profile

Roger Clark aka Rex

6940 posts in 2182 days


#5 posted 09-28-2012 06:23 PM

Rance shows you the right way, all you have to make sure is that your router base plate is bigger than the pocket area you need to route out. Basically the middle of the pocket can be dome “freehand” if the router base is big enough.

-- Roger-R, Republic of Texas. "Always look on the Bright Side of Life" - An eyeball to eyeball confrontation with a blind person is as complete waste of Time.

View Roger Clark aka Rex's profile

Roger Clark aka Rex

6940 posts in 2182 days


#6 posted 09-28-2012 06:25 PM

Oh, listen to what JR45 says about cutting in small depths until you reach the desired depth. Do not expect to route everything out at full depth.

-- Roger-R, Republic of Texas. "Always look on the Bright Side of Life" - An eyeball to eyeball confrontation with a blind person is as complete waste of Time.

View Tennessee's profile

Tennessee

1556 posts in 1262 days


#7 posted 09-28-2012 06:26 PM

My guitars feature a Tonal Chamber that is sometimes almost 12” across, and 8-9 inches wide. I start in the MIDDLE with a plunge router and work my way out, so my base is always on the outside edge. I would do any kind of box this way also, even if I had a bushing setup that would hit a template around the edge

-- Paul, Tennessee, http://www.tsunamiguitars.com

View Loren's profile (online now)

Loren

7822 posts in 2395 days


#8 posted 09-28-2012 06:37 PM

You can build a larger sub-base for the router and use a bearing-guided
dado clean out bit. Nail or tape your template to the work. The template
has to be thick enough that the bearing on the bit shank engages
the template even before plunging into the work. The larger sub-base
allows you to just move the router around in whatever pattern you
like until the waste is removed.

You can also make the template so it is defines the outer limit
of travel of the router sub-base… a square board with a square
hole in the middle and simple scrap fences on all four outside
edges. You can use a standard straight bit this way.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View StreamDreamer's profile

StreamDreamer

19 posts in 894 days


#9 posted 09-28-2012 06:53 PM

Awesome guys. Thanks a bunch. The only thing I could think of was to use the router and cut in strips until it was all gone. Didnt know if I should use a forstner bit or what.

That helps a ton! Thank you all!!

View Jim Rowe's profile

Jim Rowe

612 posts in 1060 days


#10 posted 09-28-2012 09:45 PM

Show us the finished product!
Jim

-- It always looks better when it's finished!

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

GardenTenders.com :: gardening showcase