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Inca Planer - Looking for a little help.....

6K views 11 replies 4 participants last post by  MadeinMT 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I bought a 1984 Inca 550 planer/jointer on EBay a couple months ago. The P/J was shipped - and that's where my troubles began.

The P/J was damaged in shipment. It looked like it was dropped which caused the (very heavy) motor to put too much pressure on the aluminum mounting bracket. The bracket shattered and when the motor came loose it broke (shattered) the plastic box that houses the ON/OFF switch.

I've been working with Eagle Tools to replace various parts that broke or rattled loose and were lost - but they can't help with the ON/OFF switch enclosure. I took the motor and switch to a local motor shop but they couldn't help either. So I got on EBAY and have found a new switch enclosure. Problem solved!

Except…...............when I went to install the new enclosure i found that two wires that were connected to the switch were no longer connected. And I can't figure out where they connect. There was an old wiring schematic included with the P/J and it helped a little but I'm not quite sure where to connect these wires and I hate to roll the dice and blow something up.

Sorry for the long-winded discussion - I'll finally get to the point. I'm looking for someone with a similar Inca P/J who would be willing to disassemble their ON/OFF switch and help me figure out where the two wires connect. I have gobs of pictures (I attached a couple here) and drew up a wiring schematic so I think we'll be able to compare notes and (hopefully) help me solve this riddle.

Any takers???

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#3 ·
1) The BLACK wire coming out of the 220-volt plug-in cord. I think it should connect to terminal 3 on the switch.

2) A BLUE wire that is one of the seven wires coming out of the motor. The other six are brown, brown, green/yellow, red (sort of a rosey red), yellow, and black. I think this should connect to terminal 6 on the switch.
 
#7 ·
Richard - After six months of tracking down parts I finally have it fixed. Now I just have to go about setting it up so it will work properly. Its my first jointer so I am proceeding slowly. Fortunately I do not have alot of work for it at the moment, so I have time to tinker.

It took a long time to track down the replacement electrical switch. Finally a guy at a place in NJ lined me up. The switch alone was $300. Altogether I invested about $450 in replacement parts. Fortunately the shipment was insured so I am getting reimbursed.
 
#10 ·
Richard - Found mine on EBay. The shipper crated it up very stoutly, when it arrived there was no sign of damage. But when I opened the crate it was clear it had been dropped and dropped hard as the motor (which weighs at least 60#) had snapped off the aluminum mounting bracket and shattered the electrical switch. The moral of the story? Be sure the motor is adequately supported.
 
#12 ·
The switch is pretty sophisticated. It's really a switch with a built in relay that latches when you turn the switch on. Theres at least 12 wires connecting the switch/relay to the 220-volt cord, the motor, and the motor-starting capacitor.

Could a different switch work? Perhaps. But you'd have to be smarter than me to figure it out.
 
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