Another contractor saw dust collection quandry

You’re on the right track.

I recommend turning the saw upside down and taking
your time with the project, using other tools to cut
parts. Crawling under the saw to try to figure it out
will drive you nuts.

The best place to put your dust hose is vertically under
the front of the blade. You’ll want to enclose the side of
the blade on the front at the least. The trick is making
it work with the blade tilted 45 degrees and that is
why dust collection is such a fussy retrofit. You may
find sheet metal or plastics like cut-up 5 gallon bucket
material work better than thicker and structurally
flawed plywoods. A pop riveter may be handy as well.

cdaulton …... that’s how it was done on the ridgid 3650, the first ridgid TS built by one world technology when production of the ridgid TSs was moved away from emerson electric, which also built the 113 series contractor saws for sears. the ridgid 3612, which was the last emerson electric built ridgid TS did not have the type of shroud you’re describing as shown in this parts diagram from the OM:

http://www.ridgid.com/ASSETS/88E78849BA6F4A5696DDF96F7D8755AB/TS3612_Table_Saw_Man.pdf

(see page 74).

it’s successor, the ts3650 did have a shroud as shown in this parts list:

http://www.ridgid.com/ASSETS/FD9D936024C445A4B2DC94BB61DB3794/TS3650_402_r.pdf

(see figure I)

if the two cradles are the same, it should be possible to purchase the parts that comprise the shroud and apply them to your 113 saw. if the cradle of the 3650 is different from the cradle of the 3612, then while it’s theoretically possible, all the parts would have to be fabricated. i’d check with ridgid and confirm that if you ordered a new cradle for the 3612, they would send you the same cradle that fits the 3650. i believe your saw has the same cradle as the 3612.

FWIW, i have 2 emerson bult 10” CI TSs, one a 70s vintage c-man, the other a 2003 ridgid 2412. both have the same innards. i’ve addressed the DC issue by blocking the back and collecting the dust with a plate on the bottom of the cabinet with a 4” dust collection fitting. what i have noticed is that this pulls the fine dust from the cabinet but leaves some heavier dust and chips in the corners. so it’s about 80-90% effective. what i did notice is that changing from a shop vac to a 1.5hp, 1100 cfm dust collector GREATLY improved the effectiveness of this arrangement. it’s the increased air flow (a 1hp DC does about 600-700 cfm, the 1.5 DC does 1100 cfm) that improves the dust collection.

here’s an example of another fabrciated dust collection accessory that appears to work well. given the sound of the dust collector heard ramping up, i’d be surprised if it wasn’t at least a 1.5 hp collector.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MkzY0F-5YlI&feature=related

this info on LJ also might be of interest to you:

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/36823

and this FWW article used to be available on the web for free but that link has been diasabled:

http://www.finewoodworking.com/Workshop/WorkshopPDF.aspx?id=32303

this is a more extensive set of modifications that enclose the motor in a box in an effort to do away with the drudgery of removing whatever one uses to cover the open back of the saw. i think i have a print out of the article somewhere. it was a well written and thorough exercise but i didn’t think the effort necessary to execute it was worth it since all it really saved you was removing the cover on the back of the saw for bevel cuts.

good luck with whatever direction you go in for your dust collection. but try to figure an 1100-1200 cfm dust collector somewhere in the process. effective dust collection depends on moving as much air as possible.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

Every contractor table saw needs one of these. It made my life way easier. Very easy install…...............

-- mike...............

I use the base panel/shroud fitting with a semi-enclosed back panel on my G0444Z contractor saw. Works pretty darned well except for above the table control. Ya don’t wanna fully enclose the back ‘cause ya won’t have any “make up” air that will allow the DC to work well.
I’m also a real freak about clearing all the dust out of the saw after each day’s use. Does that make me a “sho ‘nuff” anal retentive?
My DC is a HF unit with felted bags, and seems to do all I need in the course of a day’s work.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

Heck, I just used some tiny spring clamps and hung a garbage bag from the bottom rim of the saw cabinet. Probably catches 60-70% of the dust. If I went to the trouble of closing off the rear portion of the saw, I’d probably contain closer to 90%.

When I bought my mod. 113 way back when I also bought the dust collection system for it. Does a good job.

-- Today is the first day of the rest of your life. Live it ti it's fullest.

I added a HF DC Accesory shrould to the bottom of my C’man 113 TS (connected to my HF 2HP DC):

I also sealed much of the underside (inside the “cabinet”):

I will evetually add this modification to close up the back: (This is a shot of another LJ members DC mod to their TS. I can’t remember who or I would give credit.):

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow!

I have about a 20 year old Delta Contractor saw that used to spew dust everywhere. Then last year I saw the FWW article that Toolie references and decided that it was the best solution for me.

Since my saw was different than the one in the article I needed to modify my approach to the problem. One of the things that I needed to do was to slightly change the length of the v-belt in order for the motor to swing to a full 45 degrees. I purchased a 4’ piece of link belt and set it to the proper length. I used some spray foam insulation to fill the open gaps underneath the cast iron top.

How well does it work? My opinion is that it works very well but to really catch all the dust you need to have a solution for the top of the saw also. Best of luck.

-- Randy