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| Forum topic by lumberjoe | posted 245 days ago | 364 views | 0 times favorited | 9 replies | ![]() |
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245 days ago |
I am pretty comfortable working between centers. I am having an issue when trying to trim down an end. For example – bottle stoppers. I chuck the bottle stopper blank and advance the tailstock. Once round, I move the tailstock back and make whatever shape/profile I want. to finish the end, I slide the toolrest around and work it down, No matter what tool I use, be it a gouge (roughing or fingernail) or skew, I get BAD catches. Some have even grenaded the blank. What am I doing wrong? -- http://www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts |
9 replies so far
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#1 posted 245 days ago |
Joe, I feel your pain. I have found that using a very sharp scraper is my best tool here. I use one that is about 1/8” thick and 1/2” wide and slow the speed down considerably. Also, you must take very light cuts. The angle on the end is the most aggressive against the endgrain and it tears easily. I also can never get the end so smooth that I cannot see rings from the tool. I always use some sandpaper on the ends with the lathe off. Keep trying and you will eventually figure out the best method for you and your tools. -- Website is finally up and running....www.woodandwrite.com |
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#2 posted 245 days ago |
Hmmm, that is a lathe tool I don’t own. I have a round nose scraper, but I have never used it. Will that work? |
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#3 posted 245 days ago |
if your tool is sharp,shouldn’t be a problem.but is your speed high enough? such as 1800 rpm range. |
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#4 posted 244 days ago |
You could try the round nose. It should work just the same but be extra careful to go slow and take small bites. -- Website is finally up and running....www.woodandwrite.com |
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#5 posted 244 days ago |
I’m still getting used to speeds. I turn pens around 3200, but big bottle stopper blanks I’m around 1100. Also with scrapers, the flat side of the bevel faces up and the bevel side is down toward the toolrest, correct? That’s what it looks like in the videos I watched anyway. |
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#6 posted 244 days ago |
Dont work the end like a bowl, work it like a spindle. Also how are you chucking your pieces. Are you putting the stopper over a threaded stud or putting the dowel in and chucking the dowel. The dowel isn’t really strong enough to give the needed support. Fore bottle stoppers, I have a 3/8 lag bolt that I cut the head off of. I chuck it in a drill chuck. Never have any problems…..well usually dont have any problems. :-P -- Isaac- Decatur, GA - "Your woodworking....NOT machining parts for NASA!!!" |
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#7 posted 243 days ago |
The stopper is going over a threaded stud (PSI bottle stopper chuck). |
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#8 posted 243 days ago |
To answer your question about the bevel, yes the beveled edge is facing down (away from the work piece). Position the tool rest so that the top (cutting) edge of the scraper is just a hair below the centerline of the work. I know I’ll probably get some flack, but you can make a flat nosed scraper from an old file. Grind the end square , then grind the bevel. Go slow and cool the file often in water. I usually wrap the file with a layer or two of masking tape to keep the file teeth from scraping on the tool rest. Just remember the file is brittle so don’t be aggressive with the cuts and resharpen often. You can probably pick up some old, dull files for free at any machine shop or Vocational School. -- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the world's finest custom rolling pins! |
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#9 posted 243 days ago |
I use a skewchigouge, really more as a scraper, though. I hate exploding pieces, too. -- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog |
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